just aquired 1931 Model A, help diagnosing oil leak

[Sparta]

just got my 1931 ford model a and have a oil leak. there is a bolt missing from front of engine, could this be culprit? here are photos.

[Y-Blockhead]

Your missing the timing pin. It goes in the thread hole. The hole is open to your timing gears and as they are rotating they are throwing oil out the hole.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword

[Chuck Dempsey]

If you don't need to time the engine right now, just find a short bolt that fits the threads and insert it. If it seems to be 'hitting' something inside, that would be the timing gear (camshaft gear), and you need a shorter bolt.....

[Sparta]

That would make sense, the previous owner said he adjusted the timing just before I bought it. Must of forgot to put it back in!

[Sparta]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Your missing the timing pin. It goes in the thread hole. The hole is open to your timing gears and as they are rotating they are throwing oil out the hole.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword

Just out of curiosity, could this cause a vacuum leak as well? Car is back firing and wondering if it has anything to do with it.

[Dirtrack49]

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Sparta, is it backfiring on deceleration, or when you are cruising along?
Tom L.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Sparta

Just out of curiosity, could this cause a vacuum leak as well? Car is back firing and wondering if it has anything to do with it.

No vacuum leak, it is just open to the crankcase.

[History]

Sparta, I ASSume is where you are from?? Sparta where?


Could the oil have gotten on electrical parts and cause the backfiring?

[Sparta]

Originally Posted by Dirtrack49

Sparta, is it backfiring on deceleration, or when you are cruising along?
Tom L.

Hey Tom, it backfires when letting off the gas. Doesn’t do it at idle, but when I shut the car off today, it shot like a pistol.

[Dirtrack49]

My first guess would be an induction leak. Like the manifold or the carburetor gasket. Or, maybe you are running your mixture control far from normal. Most folks run the mixture control at 1/4 turn out from closed. I have been running mine at anywhere from 1/4 to closed when the engine is warmed up.
Did you adjust your carburetor for idle and mixture?
Tom L.

[Sparta]

Well here’s a couple other things to know. I’m seeing a puddle of gas leaking from carb every time after driving it, and it also leaks just as it sits. The choke was stuck until about an hour ago, I was able to loosen it. But because of that, the GAV has been turned all the way clockwise every time I’ve driven it

[Blue-Truck-Nut]

My father's 31 pickup backfires with every shift when it's hot, it's being caused by a small exhaust leak where the pipe meets the manifold.

I had my timing pin fall out, just like you on my 31 Sport Coupe, then it developed a rattle, which sounded suspiciously like a loose bearing. Turns out the cam gear was loose. I don't know if the timing pin/cam gear incidents were related, but now you have been advised.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

[aermotor]

Originally Posted by Sparta

Well here’s a couple other things to know. I’m seeing a puddle of gas leaking from carb every time after driving it, and it also leaks just as it sits. The choke was stuck until about an hour ago, I was able to loosen it. But because of that, the GAV has been turned all the way clockwise every time I’ve driven it

Are you shutting the fuel off at the tank after driveing?

John

[James Rogers]

Look for the timing pin under the pulley. If the PO forgot to replace it, that's most likely where it is.


As for the backfire, it sounds like you have an intake leak and a rich carb. What carb are you running?

[chap52]

When I shut my 30 down after parking it I fully retard the spark (full up), put throttle lever full up, shut off gas valve and let her run dry.
If the next morning you still find it drips gas from the carb throat your gas tank shut off is probably not totally closing. That's an easy repair or replace issue.
This procedure will identify if the shut-off is bad.
As advised, adjust the carb. Here is a link to the instruction manual which is full of great information, including proper carb adjusting procedure. Also a post on leaking carb. Enjoy the adventure... Chap


http://motormayhem.net/wp-uploads/20...ion-Manual.pdf


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...22&postcount=6

[ryanheacox]

When my car pops on decel or shifting I open the GAV a little more and it clears right up. Where was your choke stuck?



I would imagine with the problems you're talking about, taking the carb apart, giving it a good cleaning, new gaskets and a float valve will fix you up. If the choke was stuck you don't know where else gunk may be lurking.



I just put in new gaskets and a viton tipped float valve. The transformation is amazing.

[Sparta]

I am sure to shutoff the valve after driving. I did shutoff clave with car running to see if it would die, and after about a minute it did.

I have a zenith carb and like I said, every time I’ve driven it, because the Choke was stuck, it’s been fully closed. This morning I checked under the car and there was a small puddle of gas again.

I haven’t tried adjusting anything in the carb yet, I’m going
To see if adjusting the GAV will help at all.

If I wanted to buy a rebuilt zenith carb, who is a good supplier?

[katy]

Here's what you're missing: https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...ngine/hardware

[Ernie Vitucci]

There are a number of good Model 'A' suppliers who have quality parts. Depending on where you live, Arizona Model A, Sammy Guthrie 480-782-0266 or Bratton's, Walt Bratton 800-255-1929. These guys will help you and you will find others as you expand your Model A world. Ernie in Arizona

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Sparta

I am sure to shutoff the valve after driving. I did shutoff clave with car running to see if it would die, and after about a minute it did.

I have a zenith carb and like I said, every time I’ve driven it, because the Choke was stuck, it’s been fully closed. This morning I checked under the car and there was a small puddle of gas again.

I haven’t tried adjusting anything in the carb yet, I’m going
To see if adjusting the GAV will help at all.

If I wanted to buy a rebuilt zenith carb, who is a good supplier?

You seem to have 2 gas leak issues.
-Leaking Shutoff valve. It working well enough to make the carb run out of gas, but has a slow leak over time. Brattons replacement are USA made and guaranteed for 3 years. At the same time you replace recommend you install a pencil filter that filters the gas before it goes through the shutoff valve.
https://www.brattons.com/fuel-tank-filter-screen.html
https://www.brattons.com/fuel-shut-o...-gas-tank.html


- Possible leaking Carb Float Valve. To confirm, while it has been leaking stick your finger as far as it will go into the inside bottom of the air intake. If there is gas the float valve is leaking. It is easily replaced, if works is a lot cheaper that a rebuilt carb.
https://www.brattons.com/modern-float-valve.html


If buying a rebuilt Berts has an excellent reputation, they test drive the carb on an a car before shipping, and will sent you a carb before they receive your old carb/core. They refund the core charge once they receive your old carb. If ordering, ask for lead time, during their busy season can be 4-6 weeks.
https://modelastore.com/index.php?ro...&category_id=0