Tips on transmission removal 1954 Ford

[STEVE O]

Hi
My son has a 1954 Ford 239 V8 with the FOM automatic transmission with a cracked flexplate. With the help of some very nice Fordbarn members help we have located a new updated flexplate and the 3 reinforcing/spacer rings to install it.
Now my question is at this point there is no leaks from the transmission and would love to remove the transmission/bellhousing and converter complete on order to replace the cracked flexplate. The little information I can read this cannot be done without cutting the floor or crossmember to get the complete trans out. Is the any tips on how to remove it complete?
Thanks
Steve

[Daves55Sedan]

The '54 Ford has the same car frame as the '55 and '56, but the body of the '54 is different which may mean clearances for removal might be different, but under NO circumstances would it ever be necessary to cut up a car frame to remove a transmission.
There's more than one way to skin a cat, but this is the way I've always done it on '55 & '56's:
Unhook the starter and remove it completely.
Unscrew the filler/dipstick and drain ATF. Remove dipstick tube & bracket.
Disconnect transmission passing gear link and gear select link at the trans levers and tape them out of the way so they don't get accidentally bent during trans case removal.
Pull the speedo cable and gear out of trans rear extension housing.
Remove (4) bolts holding driveshaft rear U-joint to the yoke and pull driveshaft out.
The trans is now ready to begin removal process.
Get a floor-jack with a scrap of 1/2" plywood to roll under the trans pan
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the trans case to the bellhousing. Do not remove bellhousing bolts yet.
Remove the (6) bolts (3 on each side) of the removable frame crossmember under the trans. Remove the (2) bolts that hold the U-bracket to the crossmember, then remove crossmember completely.
Lift the floor jack arm and put a little tension on it, then pull the trans case/rear housing sub-assembly out of the bellhousing. Pull it back on the rolling floor jack so that the front pump shaft clears the bellhousing just a little bit.
The next part is tricky. You will need to lower (SLOWLY) the floor jack while pushing the floor jack forward so that the front pump shaft has continued clearance from the bellhousing. Keep lowering and pushing the jack forward until the pump shaft is BELOW the bottom of the bellhousing. At this point, the trans will be tilted downward at the front quite a bit, so you may need to adjust the focal point of the floor jack arm with respect to it's position on the bottom of the pan. Be careful.
Once you are clear of the bellhousing, grab the rear extension housing while pushing the floor jack and trans forward until the rear extension clears the last little frame crossover. Then level off and lower your floor jack and roll the trans out from under the car.
Next, Remove the bolts that hold the front inspection plate (half-moon shaped) and remove it. You may also want to remove the (4) bolts that hold the intake air duct to the bellhousing, then remove it and the chicken wire screen to avoid damage to them during removal. Remove the bellhousing-to-engine block bolts. It may be necessary to remove your interior floor covering to access the top bolts. Pop out the floor plugs to see the bolts. Then you can pull the bellhousing out from under the car.
Now, drain the ATF from the converter to lighten it up a bit. Then begin removing all the bolts holding the air-cooled converter to the flex-plate. There should be two tabs on the flex-plate @ 180 degrees apart with (3) bolts each for a total of (6) bolts and nuts to remove the converter. It will be necessary to turn the engine crankshaft to get to some of the bolts.
Now, with the converter out of the way, you can access the (5) bolts that hold the flex-plate to the crankshaft.
Ta da

[KULTULZ]

What BODY STYLE is the 54?

Do you know if it has a BOX FRAME or X-FRAME?

[STEVE O]

Hi ,
Thanks for the responses. I appreciate the detailed instructions. It is a 2 door sedan customline. Is there any way to remove the transmission and bellhousing assembly with out separating the two?
Thanks
Steve

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by STEVE O

Hi ,

I appreciate the detailed instructions. It is a 2 door sedan customline. Is there any way to remove the transmission and bellhousing assembly with out separating the two?

Thanks

Steve

That is what I needed to know the frame type for. Will be back.

[KULTULZ]

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OK ...

1st you need a 1954 CAR WSM to help you along with the car. Best way out (IMO) is a CD set.

What they are referring to regarding the floorboard is there are two rubber covers for holes on the trans tunnel (move back floor covering) allowing you to remove the two upper convertor hsng bolts.

The trans is then removed as Dave described.

I had a feeling if was the X-FRAME, it would have to be removed as in a BIRD.

[STEVE O]

Thanks again. I appreciate it. So basically there is no way to remove it as assembly without cutting the floor to allow the tailshaft to tilt up to get it to clear the engine to get it out of there. My son is selling his 54 and we thought it would help sell it if we could get the flexplate installed to quiet it down. Considering messing with the converter seal and the possibility of making leaks we may reconsider this and sell it as is.
Thanks again
Steve

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by STEVE O

So basically there is no way to remove it as assembly without cutting the floor to allow the tailshaft to tilt up to get it to clear the engine to get it out of there.

There is no reason to cut the floorboard.

That trans will slide out from underneath.

[STEVE O]

Sorry KULTULZ and Daves55sedan but if I understand correctly the only way to get the transmission out is to separate the bellhousing & transmission for it to get it out of there? Sorry to be dense but the older I get I think the denser I feel.
Thanks again
Steve

[darrell]

it is not an easy job.i took one out of a 56 with a transmission jack and the car was on a hoist.still a handful.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by STEVE O

Sorry KULTULZ and Daves55sedan but if I understand correctly the only way to get the transmission out is to separate the bellhousing & transmission for it to get it out of there? Sorry to be dense but the older I get I think the denser I feel.

It will come out whole. If you take it out in sections and have to replace it as such, think of the filth that will fall into it.

[STEVE O]

GREAT! Yes you are exactly right. Thanks again!

[paul2748]

Do you have a shop manual? That may describe the steps needed to remove the transmission. If your working on your car, you should have this manual. Personally, I prefer the written manual, not the one on CD. I don't have a computer in my garage.

[STEVE O]

I do have a chiltons manual but couldn't find where it tells how to remove the auto trans (even lists the R&R but not there when I looked), just the manual trans. I need to dig in my shop and I may have a motors manual that will have it.
Thanks everyone
Steve

[KULTULZ]

The 1954 WSM gives instructions in detail.

1955/ WSM description must have gone to the AT TRANS WSM.

[LOWRIDER]

I was 18 when I converted my 56 Meteor CV from an automatic to a 3sp back in 68'. Did the whole job in the family garage with no hoist, no air tools or even a shop manual. I didn't have to do any cutting, bending or other oddball things. Did have to use a lot of muscle. End result with my 3sp Hurst Mystery shifter was a very smooth manual conversion.

[darrell]

myself i would change the flexplate and thats all.

[GLAmes]

Someone who has better knowledge can affirm or dispel this. It is my understanding that once the torque converter is installed on the input shaft it can't be removed without damaging the snap ring inside the TC. For that reason you unbolt the TC from the flexplate and remove the transmission and bellhousing as a unit.

[STEVE O]

Hi
Do you think its possible to slide transmission back far enough to exchange the flexplate?
Thanks

[KULTULZ]

Are you doing this on the ground or do you have a lift?

[LOWRIDER]

I used to do that all the time. Cars & trucks would come in that would no longer crank over due to a chewed up flexplate. Working flat rate you had to finish it as quickly as possible and get it repaired right. After you get the trans back far enough to reach the flywheel bolts you just remove the bolts & install the new flexplate. In my waaay younger days I had done so many I could do one in an hour.

[Crankster]

Use your special Checkbook tool!

[GLAmes]

Originally Posted by STEVE O

Hi
Do you think its possible to slide transmission back far enough to exchange the flexplate?

I think it could be done after removing the air flow duct and removing the 8 bolts that holds the transmission support to the frame. The rear side of the flexplate is only a little over an inch from the rear of the block so I'm thinking a person could get in there after sliding it back 4 inches. Of course more would be better.

[STEVE O]

Its in my sons garage without a lift. I've done mustang 289s a couple times pulling the trans back enough to replace the flywheel/flexplate but never a 54.
Thanks
Steve

[darrell]

as has been said it will go back far enough. pull the carpet back over the hump and youll see 2 plugs in the floor.the 2 top bolts are behind them.

[evintho]

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Pics always help. Here are the plugs to remove......

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1641668661

[STEVE O]

Thanks to everyone. I appreciate all the responses. We will slide back just enough to swap out the flexplate!

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by STEVE O

Sorry KULTULZ and Daves55sedan but if I understand correctly the only way to get the transmission out is to separate the bellhousing & transmission for it to get it out of there? Steve

On a '55/56 full size car, the last trans crossmember prevents you from lowering the whole trans + converter bellhousing as a unit. You actually need to push the trans further back toward the rear and tilt the trans case down while pulling forward in order to clear the bottom of the bellhousing. There is barely enough room to do that.
One other way to do it (but you still need to separate the trans case from the bellhousing and converter under the car), is to hold the trans case up with your floor jack (very dangerous) while you are removing flex-plate to converter bolts and bellhousing to engine bolts, then lower the converter and bellhousing down after pushing the trans case backward to allow front pump shaft to clear the converter (and extreme caution is required because you don't want to bump the two dogs and break them off of the converter hub). After the bellhousing and converter are out of the way, then there's all kinds of room to roll your floor-jack forward with the trans case on it and lower without the need to tilt the case. I recommend having TWO guys under the car working the jack, moving the jack forward and back and the other guy removing bolts and holding on to trans case/bellhousing to prevent falling off jack and onto concrete floor where they can easily crack.
The way I described to remove initially by pulling case out first and then removing converter and bellhousing I have actually done myself MANY times on different cars ('55/56's) without any help. I am about 5'-4" tall and never weighed more than 102 lbs my entire life. Never had any problems, but I'm highly well organized, properly tooled (even with my home-made floor-jack and other homemade tools) have patience and methodology to complete the task. It is not easy, but it is worth it if you can do it yourself, you know it is right and you save a ton of money in labor costs and don't have to worry about some moron in a shop who cares nothing for your car rip[ping things apart and breaking stuff that is not easily replaced.
A THIRD way is to remove car radiator, disconnect all wiring and hoses to the engine, remove all engine mount bolts, then pull both the entire engine and full transmission out of the car a a unit. If doing this, I would recommend removing air-cooled converter intake air duct and screen under the car and the engine crankshaft ventilation tube so that those wont get bent or damaged during engine removal.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by GLAmes

I think it could be done after removing the air flow duct and removing the 8 bolts that holds the transmission support to the frame. The rear side of the flexplate is only a little over an inch from the rear of the block so I'm thinking a person could get in there after sliding it back 4 inches. Of course more would be better.

You have to get the converter away from the flex-plate in order54 to access the bolts that hold the flex-plate to the engine crankshaft. So in that scenario, the converter is laying in the bottom of the bellhousing and ready to fall over against the back of the engine. I guess you could get a roll of bailing wire, pull the converter back and tie it up against the bellhousing bolt-holes, but would there still be enough room to get a socket and socket wrench in between the front of the converter and flex-plate??? Maybe a breaker bar, but a socket wrench, I'm skeptical.
Also, how do you hoist the converter back up on the new flex-plate with the bellhousing in the way (and get the holes to line up too)???'
Have you personally done that on a '54?

[darrell]

the converter doesnt fall out.all you need is a boxend wrench.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

1st you need a 1954 CAR WSM to help you along with the car. Best way out (IMO) is a CD set.

LOOK HERE - https://www.themotorbookstore.com/19...anuals-cd.html

This will give a full description as to how and why.

ATTACHED -

There are two pages in the 1954 WSM describing R&R. Below is PG 1. It should give you an idea of how to go about it. I will post PG2 when I figure this %#&!* computer out ...

[GLAmes]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

You have to get the converter away from the flex-plate in order54 to access the bolts that hold the flex-plate to the engine crankshaft. So in that scenario, the converter is laying in the bottom of the bellhousing and ready to fall over against the back of the engine. I guess you could get a roll of bailing wire, pull the converter back and tie it up against the bellhousing bolt-holes, but would there still be enough room to get a socket and socket wrench in between the front of the converter and flex-plate??? Maybe a breaker bar, but a socket wrench, I'm skeptical.
Also, how do you hoist the converter back up on the new flex-plate with the bellhousing in the way (and get the holes to line up too)???'
Have you personally done that on a '54?

What????? The converter slides onto the input shaft of the transmission. When you unbolt it from the flexplate it will spin freely but doesn't fall into the bottom of the bellhousing. There is an access plate at the bottom of the bellhousing for the purpose of removing the TC bolts. I have installed the torque converter on the transmission shaft and then installed the transmission onto the engine, so yes.

[STEVE O]

Hi everyone,
I do appreciate all the info from everyone. KULTULZ I do appreciate the page from the service manual (i did find a section in a Chiltons manual but not nearly as detailed). Yes I would greatly appreciate if you get page 2 posted as I'm not going to buy a manual or cd at this point as my son is going to sell the 54 once get a few things fixed.
Steve

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by GLAmes

What????? The converter slides onto the input shaft of the transmission. When you unbolt it from the flexplate it will spin freely but doesn't fall into the bottom of the bellhousing. There is an access plate at the bottom of the bellhousing for the purpose of removing the TC bolts. I have installed the torque converter on the transmission shaft and then installed the transmission onto the engine, so yes.

The converter is front-heavy and the only thing holding it in place in the bellhousing is the converter hub's engagement with the front pump. If the trans is tilted slightly downward at the front, the converter hub will fall out of the front pump and may break off a couple of ring gear teeth and also crack or break off one or both of the dogs on the converter hub, rendering it useless.
As far as the torque converter to flex-plate bolts, yes you should remove the half-moon shaped front inspection plate and rotate crankshaft till the tabs on the flex-plate appear and remove those 3 bolts then rotate another 180 degrees and get the other 3 bolts off. That will separate the converter from the flex-plate so you can push the transmission bellhousing away from the engine in order to access the flex-plate-to-engine crankshaft bolts. The question is, will there be enough room to get a socket and breaker bar between the front of bellhousing and flexplate to remove those bolts.

[KULTULZ]

KULTULZ I do appreciate the page from the service manual (i did find a section in a Chiltons manual but not nearly as detailed). Yes I would greatly appreciate if you get page 2 posted ...

Sorry, I have tried. I am not sure how I got the 1st page.

This machine is like my old lady ... PMS 24/7 ...

[STEVE O]

Hi ,
Daves55Sedan thanks for the tips and suggestions. KULTULZ thanks for your attempts at posting the second page. If my son doesn't sell or trade this 54 in the next few weeks I will report back at how we get along.
Thanks
Steve

[GLAmes]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

The converter is front-heavy and the only thing holding it in place in the bellhousing is the converter hub's engagement with the front pump. If the trans is tilted slightly downward at the front, the converter hub will fall out of the front pump and may break off a couple of ring gear teeth and also crack or break off one or both of the dogs on the converter hub, rendering it useless.
As far as the torque converter to flex-plate bolts, yes you should remove the half-moon shaped front inspection plate and rotate crankshaft till the tabs on the flex-plate appear and remove those 3 bolts then rotate another 180 degrees and get the other 3 bolts off. That will separate the converter from the flex-plate so you can push the transmission bellhousing away from the engine in order to access the flex-plate-to-engine crankshaft bolts. The question is, will there be enough room to get a socket and breaker bar between the front of bellhousing and flexplate to remove those bolts.

It's painfully obvious that you have never seen a '54 torque converter nor ever installed one. I'm not sure where your other idea comes from either. If the torque converter isn't attached to the input shaft of the transmission how does the power get transferred?

So here are some pictures for your edification. The TC has 18 bolts and nuts around it's circumference that hold it to the flex plate. The transmission input shaft is four inches long and the cavitty it slides into is four inches deep. Looking at the input shaft, the bevel that is at the 1 1/2 inch mark is where the snap ring I spoke of previously clamps the shaft. That keeps the TC from moving fore and aft.

And yes, I believe the transmission with the bellhousing and TC connected can be slid rearward enough to get a wrench on the flexplate bolts.

[paul2748]

I think you are wrong. It's been awhile since I removed my Fordo for a C-4, but they were both the same as far as the converter was concerned. No attachment of the converter to the main trans. Power is transferred to the converter via the splines on the input shaft of the main trans. Both converters (Fordo and C4) would just slide in and slide out. My Fordo was a 56 air cooled, I would assume the 54 converter was the same.


I assume the the two tangs at the rear of the converter also connect to something in the main case. Not being an autotrans guy, I don't know the mechanics of it.

Originally Posted by GLAmes

It's painfully obvious that you have never seen a '54 torque converter nor ever installed one. I'm not sure where your other idea comes from either. If the torque converter isn't attached to the input shaft of the transmission how does the power get transferred?

[KULTULZ]

... ain't this something ... ???

A food fight and I was not the instigator or involved ...

[dmsfrr]

These '54 (& '55 / '56 ?) and newer flex plate examples fasten to the torque converter with either 6 or 4 bolts. Depending if they're the 'early' or newer / replacement style.
.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

The 1954 WSM gives instructions in detail.

1955/ WSM description must have gone to the AT TRANS WSM.

Let me qualify this-

The 1954 WSM gives TRANS R&R only. Any other procedure would be discussed in the TRANS WSM. The 1955 WSM did not include AUTO TRANS R&R. It went to the TRANS WSM.

Originally Posted by STEVE O

Daves55Sedan thanks for the tips and suggestions. KULTULZ thanks for your attempts at posting the second page. If my son doesn't sell or trade this 54 in the next few weeks I will report back at how we get along.

Thanks

Steve

If you like Steve, I can snail-mail the sheets if you trust me with your address ...

PM me ...

[KULTULZ]

Concerning TORQUE CONVERTER RETENTION, it is clearly stated in the WSM (that Henry brought down from the mountain) -

CAUTION : Proper procedure must be taken to prevent the converter from slipping out of the housing when the transmission is removed.

This is a CYA, especially if the converter wasn't drained before dropping the trans ...

It would seem to me that fabricating a small strap to keep the convertor from possibly sliding forward retained by a cap screw in a bell mounting hole would do it.

Wrestling this on the ground with only a floor jack is dangerous enough without taking all precautions.

Bell and Trans assy either slid back or rolled out of the way will give you the clearance need to access the plate.

[STEVE O]

Thanks again to everyone,
Steve

[GLAmes]

Quote:
CAUTION : Proper procedure must be taken to prevent the converter from slipping out of the housing when the transmission is removed.


I guess I'm going to have to unbolt the old TC I have and slide it onto the old transmission input shaft to see if there is any snap ring locking it in like '60s GM automatics I am famiiar with. All I know is once I installed the rebuilt TC onto the rebuilt transmission I didn't give a second thought to if it would slide back off while manuevering it to bolt up to the engine.

" No attachment of the converter to the main trans. Power is transferred to the converter via the splines on the input shaft of the main trans. "

You are somewhat correct Paul. Power is transferred FROM the TC to the transmission via the splined shaft. Remember, the engine is spinning the TC outer shell. The innards, obviously with some type of magic, turn a gizmo inside the TC that is connected to the input shaft. The input shaft then sends the power to the transmission which has it's own magical gizmos that shift gears and get the power to the driveshaft. The point was, unbolting the TC from the flexplate will not result in the TC falling into the bottom of the bellhousing.

[40 Deluxe]

If you unbolt the trans case from the bellhousing and slide it back, how are you going to get the input shaft splines and the stator support splines lined back up with the internal torque converter splines? Plus, you need to have the front pump drive tangs lined up with the pump gear. Have fun! It's doable, but it'd usually be quicker to pull the engine.

[KULTULZ]

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Watch this short and it will explain the TORQUE CONVERTER. While this is not exactly the converter style being discussed, it should give a basic understanding.

The FM has no LOCK-UP FEATURE but the principle is discussed within the film -

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=how+a+torq...%3DpTfipsejqS0

[GLAmes]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

If you unbolt the trans case from the bellhousing and slide it back, how are you going to get the input shaft splines and the stator support splines lined back up with the internal torque converter splines? Plus, you need to have the front pump drive tangs lined up with the pump gear. Have fun! It's doable, but it'd usually be quicker to pull the engine.

I don't recall anyone recommending unbolting the transmission from the bell housing. Why would you do that if the mission is to slide the bellhousing rearward enough to unbolt the flexplate?

[GLAmes]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Watch this short and it will explain the TORQUE CONVERTER. While this is not exactly the converter style being discussed, it should give a basic understanding.

The FM has no LOCK-UP FEATURE but the principle is discussed within the film -

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=how+a+torq...%3DpTfipsejqS0

It was a lot easier to say the internals are magic, but what he said about the TC and input shaft is exactly what I said. Thanks. Tomorrrow I am going to check on the snap ring.

[bbrocksr]

No snap ring.
Bill

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by GLAmes

I don't recall anyone recommending unbolting the transmission from the bell housing. Why would you do that if the mission is to slide the bellhousing rearward enough to unbolt the flexplate?

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

On a '55/56 full size car, the last trans crossmember prevents you from lowering the whole trans + converter bellhousing as a unit. You actually need to push the trans further back toward the rear and tilt the trans case down while pulling forward in order to clear the bottom of the bellhousing. There is barely enough room to do that.

One other way to do it (but you still need to separate the trans case from the bellhousing and converter under the car) ...

Yes, I am a tattle-tell RAT FINK ...

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Watch this short and it will explain the TORQUE CONVERTER. While this is not exactly the converter style being discussed, it should give a basic understanding.

The FM has no LOCK-UP FEATURE but the principle is discussed within the film -

Originally Posted by GLAmes

It was a lot easier to say the internals are magic, but what he said about the TC and input shaft is exactly what I said.

Thanks.

Tomorrrow I am going to check on the snap ring.

Sorry. What I meant by LOCK-UP was the TQ having a LOCK-UP FEATURE as in the later C3. That feature is described in the short but does not apply to the FM, FX or FMX.

[KULTULZ]

If you’re unfamiliar with exactly what the torque converter lock up is or does, the easy answer is, the lock up clutch takes stress off the fluid coupling of the torque converter and it helps decrease the amount of heat being generated at higher cruising speeds. Converter lock up wasn’t really an issue until the overdrive came about. When the transmission is tasked with spinning more RPM than the engine, the fluid coupling of the torque converter has a hard time keeping up with the demand and will begin to generate extra heat. When the converter is “locked” it is just like a direct drive manual clutch system allowing the stress to be taken off the fluid coupling and placed under full mechanical load.

SOURCE - https://www.bowlertransmissions.com/...-is-important/

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by GLAmes

I don't recall anyone recommending unbolting the transmission from the bell housing. Why would you do that if the mission is to slide the bellhousing rearward enough to unbolt the flexplate?

Post #2, about the 13th line: "Remove the 4 bolts holding the transmission case to the bellhousing." Then line 16: "Pull the trans subassembly out of the bellhousing."

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Concerning torque converter retention, it is clearly stated in the WSM (that HENRY brought down from the mountain) -

This is a CYA, especially if the converter wasn't drained before dropping the trans ...

It would seem to me that fabricating a small strap to keep the convertor from possibly sliding forward retained by a cap screw in a bell mounting hole would do it.

Wrestling this on the ground with only a floor jack is dangerous enough without taking all precautions.

Bell and trans assy either slid back or rolled out of the way will give you the clearance need to access the plate.

(BTW - I found a very brief R&R PROCEDURE in the 1955 WSM also.)

CONVERTER SAFETY STRAP - FABRICATED

[STEVE O]

Thanks!

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

If you unbolt the trans case from the bellhousing and slide it back, how are you going to get the input shaft splines and the stator support splines lined back up with the internal torque converter splines? Plus, you need to have the front pump drive tangs lined up with the pump gear. Have fun! It's doable, but it'd usually be quicker to pull the engine.

I have done it with the torque converter and bellhousing bolted to the engine in the car. Prior to raising the floor jack, take a screwdriver and turn the front pump "slots" so they will line up with the "dogs" on the converter hub.
Then, raise the floor-jack with the trans case on it up enough to get the input shaft started into the converter. If it hangs up, you can wiggle the trans on the floor jack while pushing forward slightly and the splines will engage.
Once you get that far, the converter hub may not engage with with the slots in the front pump, but they wont be far off since there is a lot of play on both sides of the front pump slots (between the two little "dogs" that stick out in the front pump. So, you can carefully shake the trans case on the floor-jack while pushing inward and it should go in easily.
Done it this way many times in just a minute. Not a big deal.
Always take care not to accidentally break the converter hub "dogs" off. Raise the floor-jack to the appropriate height and be semi-gentle when shaking and pushing the trans case in. Never had a problem.
BTW, I never weighed more than 102# nor grew to more than 5'-6" tall in my life and always did this alone without any problems occurring.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by GLAmes

I don't recall anyone recommending unbolting the transmission from the bell housing. Why would you do that if the mission is to slide the bellhousing rearward enough to unbolt the flexplate?

It may be a little different on a '54, but on a '55, if you try to unbolt the bellhousing from the engine and push the whole trans with bellhousing backward, the rear extension housing gets wedged between the floor and the last frame crossover piece, but there isn't enough room to remove the converter/flexplate sub-assembly.
At this point, there is nothing holding the converter in place except the flexplate and if the flexplate is already damaged that is even worse.
I suppose you could remove the flexplate from the converter while it is between the engine and bellhousing (IF THERE'S ENOUGH ROOM TO REMOVE FLEXPLATE TO CRANKSHAFT BOLTS), AND you would need a long piece of bailing wire tied across the front of the converter to keep it from tipping over and having the ring gear crashing into the back of the engine. Doing it this way would require someone turning the engine over several times to remove all the torque converter to flexplate bolts. At some point, you will be dragging the ring gear against the inside of the bellhousing, maybe break off a few gears.
And lets say you did remove the flexplate without causing any damage. How you gonna mate the converter which is laying in the bottom of the bellhousing with the new flexplate so that you can bolt the two together?
A drift pin would be great but there's not enough room.

[KULTULZ]

IF one raises the trans (after freeing the mount), then removes the cross-member, the trans is then lowered enough (support rear of engine) for the trans to slide back. This should (may) prevent the converter from sliding forward but I would secure it regardless.

Make sure you check fan/radiator and distributor/firewall clearances.

And I would seriously consider renting a floor trans jack.

[Daves55Sedan]

BTW, I temporarily converted my cheap brand X rolling floor-jack to a transmission jack by removing the pad off the lifting arm and substituting it for a 2x4x12"long with a piece of 3/4" plywood 12" square on top. The plywood is fastened to the 2x4 with countersunk wood screws. I drilled a hole in the middle of the plywood and thru the middle of the 2x4 and used a large countersunk machine screw with matching nut and washer to fasten the wood to the jack lifting arm. Using the jack with this arrangement helps keep the trans case fairly stable on the jack lifting arm. When I want to use it as a tire-changing jack or to change oil, I just convert the jack back to the way it was and store my wood invention for future use.

[GLAmes]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

At this point, there is nothing holding the converter in place except the flexplate and if the flexplate is already damaged that is even worse.

And lets say you did remove the flexplate without causing any damage. How you gonna mate the converter which is laying in the bottom of the bellhousing with the new flexplate so that you can bolt the two together?
A drift pin would be great but there's not enough room.

One more time. You unbolt the tq converter from the flexplate then slide the transmission rearward enough to get to the flexplate bolts. The converter is on the transmission input shaft. It won't fall anywhere. When you slide the asembly back into place you can easily spin the converter to where the first bolt can be installed, then use a prybar on the ring gear to rotate the engine to install the rest of the bolts. This isn't rocket science.

[GLAmes]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Post #2, about the 13th line: "Remove the 4 bolts holding the transmission case to the bellhousing." Then line 16: "Pull the trans subassembly out of the bellhousing."

Pardon me, I thought we were way past totally removing the transmission from the vehicle.

[STEVE O]

Hi Everyone,
Thought I would give an update. My son and I blocked the back of the engine up, removed air tube all bolts, linkages and ujoint at rear diff , unbolted rear crossmember and mount and took out. With a small strap bolted to bellhousing to hold the convertor, we was able to slid it straight back and level (about 3") just enough to get up in there and swap the flexplates. I will keep you updated on the install of the trans but so far so good. Thanks everyone for your help and KULTUZ for the copies of the manual and help. Steve