Front wheel bearings

[mrtexas]

What is correct procedure to tighten axle nut on from axles for flathead/

[Tinker]

What yrs and front or back?

[19Fordy]

With the front wheels off the ground I snug the big nut up to where there is zero play and then back it off until cotter pin slips through the holes.Then spin the wheel and check for play. If there is play I tighten the nut again,this time a little tighter than before and then back it off, spin the wheel and insert cotter pin. It's a matter of feel. The wheel must spin with no feel of drag. I may be wrong, but I think the nut and the axle hole may align at more than one location.

[Tinker]

I do the same fordy for the front, maybe just a slight drag but it spins easy at least 2 revolutions by hand spinning. Torque to at least 150lbs on the rear axle for early fords.

[JSeery]

I always tighten the nut down to where the wheel/drum is totally locked up. Then start backing the nut off until I can start to get it to move. Keep the loosing and moving the assembly until I like the feel so it will turn free with no excess play.

[34fordy]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Tinker

I do the same fordy for the front, maybe just a slight drag but it spins easy at least 2 revolutions by hand spinning. Torque to at least 150lbs on the rear axle for early fords.

It is all in the "feel". The more you do it you get used to it. You want no preload and no play. I used to repair forklift trucks that had tapered bearings but required 40 lbs. of preload. The rear axle nut torque has nothing to do with the bearings or play.

[1948F-1Pickup]

Originally Posted by 34fordy

It is all in the "feel". The more you do it you get used to it. You want no preload and no play. I used to repair forklift trucks that had tapered bearings but required 40 lbs. of preload. The rear axle nut torque has nothing to do with the bearings or play.

I work in technical sales for a bearing manufacturer in the US.
I pretty much agree with some of this. At the beginning of the process,
when you crank down on the nut you are setting the preload. You are backing off enough to get "some" rotation out of the hub, rotor, what have you.
If you back off too much you will loose the preload setting you established.
You can't have "no preload and no play".

Class 7/8 trucks have an entire procedure specified by TMC, (RP618A), mostly due to the extensive liability involved in getting taper roller bearing setup wrong.

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by 1948F-1Pickup

I work in technical sales for a bearing manufacturer in the US.........

Are your bearings made in the U.S. ?

[34fordy]

[QUOTE=1948F-1Pickup;1781033]I work in technical sales for a bearing manufacturer in the US.
I pretty much agree with some of this. At the beginning of the process,
when you crank down on the nut you are setting the preload. You are backing off enough to get "some" rotation out of the hub, rotor, what have you.
If you back off too much you will loose the preload setting you established.
You can't have "no preload and no play"

With Respect!
I have never seen an auto specification requiring preload on a RWD automobile front wheel bearing after the final adjustment. I am sure willing to learn though.

[cas3]

if you are a guy with too much stuff like me, i measure a few of the washers under the nut and find the one that is thinner/thicker to get me the feel i want and line up the cotter pin hole. those washers will vary in thickness by about 10 or 12 thou

[Tony, NY]

Spin the wheel in the direction the nut tightens. Tighten the nut until the wheel stops. Back off for cotter pin insertion. Done.

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by cas3

if you are a guy with too much stuff like me, i measure a few of the washers under the nut and find the one that is thinner/thicker to get me the feel i want and line up the cotter pin hole. those washers will vary in thickness by about 10 or 12 thou

Perfect!! You know what they say Clayton, "If it feels good, do it" LOL

[philipswanson]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

Are your bearings made in the U.S. ?

None are now with Timken moving to China like 8-10 years ago.

[aussie merc]

jump on the net there is plenty of information on this subject but trust only the information from either the vehicle manufacturer or the bearing manufacturer read carefully and follow the instructions quite often a new bearing will have different requirements than one you are reusing [nothing wrong with that if the bearing is sound] They all say different things but wind up at the same place !

[cas3]

well, i am gonna drift off a bit, from philips comment about china. i am a big fan of the early diesel dodge trucks with the 5.9 cummins motors. i have had 4 of those motors, like em a lot. lately, we get parts direct from cummins, not brand x, that say made in china on them. after a lot of whining on the forums, it comes out to be that cummins, like all big business, like to make money. so due to our taxes and regulations they move manufacturing to china. in the case of large world wide corporations, like cummins, or timkin, they own the plant, and control the whole process from raw materials coming in, to finished product going to you. its not like a chinese toe nail clipper that breaks when you get to your big toe, that was designed only to get your money once and it doesnt matter if you come back, they will get some one elses money next time. sorry for the drift, i am done

[Tinker]

Like most manufacturing you get what you order or produce. Worked with product development in foreign areas through marketing. You can get a nail clipper that will last over 100yrs or 2 days. Margins are decreased of course. Just say what you want. Steel and aluminum stock quality may not be as regulated though. Most billet aluminum block stock milled here or other are created in the east. Most of the best aluminum billet is from the east currently.

[1948F-1Pickup]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

Are your bearings made in the U.S. ?

Yes. Hamilton AL, Macomb IL, Elgin IL...... among others.
We bought the trade names Bower and BCA from Federal Mogul when
they decided to offshore all their stuff... we bought their plants, machinery and
(in some cases) employees.

Timken also still manufacturers bearings here in the USA. Particularly older taper roller designs where the tooling cost and machinery is already amortized.
On some of their product offerings, we affected their bottom line so greatly in
2017/8 that items they were going to offshore didn't change locations and they are still making them here in the US.

[1948F-1Pickup]

Originally Posted by 34fordy

With Respect!
I have never seen an auto specification requiring preload on a RWD automobile front wheel bearing after the final adjustment. I am sure willing to learn though.

You establish the preload at the very beginning of the process, not at the end.
Tightening the nut while rotating the drum/disc "sets" the bearing. The nut is then backed off slightly to enable the assembly to rotate using very slight effort. Lastly, the nut is torqued to spec (or calibrated bicep), while rotating
to establish final torque. Cotter pin or whatever locking device used is then
installed.
HD truck procedures are outlined in more gory detail in RP618A.

[Ford Freak]

Originally Posted by Tony, NY

Spin the wheel in the direction the nut tightens. Tighten the nut until the wheel stops. Back off for cotter pin insertion. Done.

I'm with Tony on this one . I have used this method for close to 50 yrs . on various vehicles , including an oval track stock car that I ran for 5 seasons , and I never had a bearing fail . Works for me !