Removing Engine Paint for New Paint

[Tom Wesenberg]

I haven't used paint remover since 1970 when I used a gel to remove layers of paint. I don't recall the brand, and don't recall how I cleaned up the mess it made. I'm wondering if oven cleaner will do a job on this engine, or do I need something better to remove the paint. I'd also like to remove the rust without sandblasting it, as I won't be taking the engine apart. It runs great, but I'd like to paint it the right color.

I'm still wondering about the black painted area. I hope that isn't red paint that turned black from a bad overheat.

[Ed Saniewski]

Aircraft Paint Remover is the stuff I have used in the past and it works great. You must have good ventilation and wear rubber gloves. You paint it on and watch it attack the paint. Then wash it off with water.

[C26Pinelake]

[B][If you can power wash before and after it works wonders. Wayne/B]

[captndan]

I agree with the aircraft paint remover. Just one thing when the paint is loose wash it off with a gentle stream of water. The remover is still active and will attact anything it touchs. When it's off then hit the engine with high pressure. WEAR GLASSES!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Tom,
T.S.P, mixed to a pancake batter consistency, will remove paint. It's not fast, but it's not CAUSTIC.
Bill W.

[bunnyc]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I just did this to my engine. I used Aircraft paint remover by Kleen Strip. Note: the directions contain a warning "do not use on aircraft". !!
I used a heat gun on the paste. Seemed to work better. Used an old pocket knife and various hand wire brushes to remove the softened paint.
Wiped the block with Purple Power, then acetone.

[Special Coupe Frank]

Tom,

That'd be one heckuva overheat to turn red paint that dark !

Hope the cause was something else !


Frank

[Russ/40]

My preferance would be mechanical methods. I just dont like dealing with harsh chemicals, and the mess to clean up. I have had great results by using air tools driving different types of wire wheels. You can get right down to bare cast iron rather easilly. What ever remains of prior paint, if any, will be well adheared and never be an issue. It also gives you the freedom of walking away from the task, to resume at your convenience without another cleanup.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Special Coupe Frank

Tom,

That'd be one heckuva overheat to turn red paint that dark !

Hope the cause was something else !


Frank

A couple years ago I saw smoke coming from the hood of a Model AA truck. The fan had so much end play that it sliced the radiator tubes, then the engine got so hot it burned the paint off the rear of the block. The area of burned off paint looked quite similar to the black area in my picture.

I'll keep cleaning with the wire brush, then I might decide to make a small enclosure to sandblast the block. If I do that, then I'll have to wrap rope around the front seal to keep the grit out. And, I'll stay clear of the rear seal.

I should just leave the red paint on because I've heard red engines are faster.

[Tim Armstrong]

Oven cleaner...Easy Off works great.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Just one (1) way, for one (1) time engine painting:

I do it quickly to save valuable time and use vintage, toxic "Kud-zit" gel.

But, don't forget the vintage engine re-builders' selling points:

"Rebuilt Engine with a Fresh Coat of Paint." (Old time lead-oil paint worked over old caked dirt and grease ....... all engines guaranteed to run better with a fresh coat of paint.)

Old engines will take several coats of Kud-zit followed by several coats of POR 15 water based Marine Clean to go through several layers of paint/grease.

Finalize with POR 15 Marine Clean, POR Prep & Ready, (2) coats of POR 15, and (2) coats of POR 15 engine green ...... paint engine once in a life time ...... no rust ever forming around head gasket area for several centuries.

Just don't have time to waste removing old paint and re-painting.

[Dan Partain]

I've found that oven cleaner is good for grease but it didn't do much, if anything, for paint. It left the original black paint on oil tubes untouched after the grease was gone.

I scraped my block with a heavy putty knife type scraper to chip off the easy stuff, then used aircraft paint remover for the difficult to reach areas and pores in the block. Next I used a wire brush on a little side grinder tool I have. That cleaned up the block pretty well. Next I brushed on a degreaser and ragged it off until the rag didn't show black residue. Finally I masked off some areas and brushed on a couple coats (maybe 3) of engine paint. The paint flowed out well and showed no brush marks.

I wouldn't use a sandblaster anywhere near an engine. Seems like no matter how well you think you protect the engine the sand will find a way in there. Just my opinion.

[Charlie Stephens]

If it won't come off with a wire brush on the end of a power tool I think I would paint over it.

Charlie Stephens

[mshmodela]

Strypeeze Paint Remover

[Dollar Bill]

Have prepped several tractors for paint using oven cleaner followed by pressure washing. Feather any remaining paint edges with a powered wire brush. Treat any surface rust with phosphoric acid. Do a final wash with prep sol and you're ready to paint. I did my 8N this way 10 years ago and it looks as good as the day I painted it.

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

If it won't come off with a wire brush on the end of a power tool I think I would paint over it.

Charlie Stephens

Amen to that!

[ronn]

engine degreaser/oven cleaner and an old pickup-quick ride to the car wash and blast it there and come home with a clean engine!

[ursus]

Having seen the dramatic effect resulting from DOT-3 brake fluid spilled on a fender, I wonder if painting on some used brake fluid and hosing off the paint after it lifts off is an option?

[Big hammer]

Cast iron is porous, I think brake fluid soak in and be a problem.

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

Can too many layers of engine paint (1/16 to 1/8 inch thick) have an effect on engine cooling?