The Ford Barn

Dennis D 1929 · 06-07-2018, 09:40 PM

Was checking out my new purchase 1929 coupe and found several problems. Jacked up the rear end and ran the car in gear to check thinks out and found the L.R. brake drum is rubbing into the brake shield to the point where part of the brake shield is actually worn away. Thought some thing was wrong when I couldn't get the hub cap on due to the fact the axle was extended out too far. Someone had added extra washers behind the castel nut thus driving the brake drum into the brake shield. Wondering if any one has seen this problem ? Also I can't get the drum off as (I believe) the brake shoes are holding the whole thing together. Any suggestions on how to get it apart without using a hub puller and causing damage ? Also do you think using straight 30wt. nondetergent oil is a good choice ? Thanks for all the help.

1955cj5 · 06-07-2018, 10:20 PM

You will probably need a puller. See picture. I use a universal puller but there are pullers specific to the Model A

Back off the brake shoe adjustment as far as you can, and you may even need to remove the brake actuating rod and the e-brake rod.

I've used these to help shim the hub.

https://modelastore.com/index.php?ro...&category_id=0

I use Shell Rotella 15-40 oil. It's supposed to have some zinc content and is reasonably priced.

Lots of different opinions on oil....

TomballMottershaw · 06-08-2018, 09:03 AM

please: do not beat on the threaded shaft with or without a nut on then end...
borrow or find some sort of hub puller tool, the cheap "C" shaped ones will just bend too.
the are not cheap... $100 for a good hub puller.

Will N · 06-08-2018, 09:30 AM

as 1955cj5 alluded, the reason for drum rubbing on the backing plate is not that someone added those washers. The end of the axle is tapered, and the hole in the hub is tapered to match. What generally happens is that the rear axle nut isn't tightened enough, and you get some movement between the axle and the hub, causing wear between the two. That only allows it to move around more, and more, causing more and more wear. Then you go to tighten the nut to compensate, and the next thing you know you have to add washers because you've run out of thread on the axle! Those shims 1955cj5 provided a link for will work to correct your issue.

Now, when you install them, make sure your axle taper and the hub is clean and dry. No oil or grease! You may be tempted to lube them so it's easier to remove them in the future, but do not do so. The tapers need to lock together to hold the the hub in place. The axle key should not be the only thing that keeps the hub from spinning on the axle. That's how you get a broken key and or axle. It's the friction of the mated tapers that hold it in place. Tighten the nut to 100 lbs ft. If the cotter pin does not line up at 100 lbs ft, do not loosen to make it fit! Rather grind down the back of the nut some (it'll just take a little) so you can line up the next slot in the nut.

100IH · 06-08-2018, 09:41 AM

Approach the brakes with the attitude of "I can do this". Start reading old threads on brakes and rear axles. You'll need pictures to show to get meaningful answers. You need to pull the drums off, front and rear to measure and inspect for safety's sake, so get access to a puller and floor jack and stands. The fun begins.

Dennis D 1929 · 06-08-2018, 10:47 AM

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Thanks to all who responded Youve all been a great help. One of my first questions was answered by Will N Apparently the shims are not a bearing surface. I cant picture how they install until I get in there and see for myself. Thanks again, if I have questions, you can bet I'll be back on.

Bob C · 06-08-2018, 11:52 AM

These are the shims.

Bob

06-07-2018, 09:40 PM	#1
Dennis D 1929 Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Posts: 55	Rear Hub problem Was checking out my new purchase 1929 coupe and found several problems. Jacked up the rear end and ran the car in gear to check thinks out and found the L.R. brake drum is rubbing into the brake shield to the point where part of the brake shield is actually worn away. Thought some thing was wrong when I couldn't get the hub cap on due to the fact the axle was extended out too far. Someone had added extra washers behind the castel nut thus driving the brake drum into the brake shield. Wondering if any one has seen this problem ? Also I can't get the drum off as (I believe) the brake shoes are holding the whole thing together. Any suggestions on how to get it apart without using a hub puller and causing damage ? Also do you think using straight 30wt. nondetergent oil is a good choice ? Thanks for all the help.

06-08-2018, 09:03 AM	#3
TomballMottershaw Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Tomball Texas Posts: 74	Re: Rear Hub problem please: do not beat on the threaded shaft with or without a nut on then end... borrow or find some sort of hub puller tool, the cheap "C" shaped ones will just bend too. the are not cheap... $100 for a good hub puller. Last edited by TomballMottershaw; 06-08-2018 at 09:09 AM.

06-08-2018, 09:30 AM	#4
Will N Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,100	Re: Rear Hub problem as 1955cj5 alluded, the reason for drum rubbing on the backing plate is not that someone added those washers. The end of the axle is tapered, and the hole in the hub is tapered to match. What generally happens is that the rear axle nut isn't tightened enough, and you get some movement between the axle and the hub, causing wear between the two. That only allows it to move around more, and more, causing more and more wear. Then you go to tighten the nut to compensate, and the next thing you know you have to add washers because you've run out of thread on the axle! Those shims 1955cj5 provided a link for will work to correct your issue. Now, when you install them, make sure your axle taper and the hub is clean and dry. No oil or grease! You may be tempted to lube them so it's easier to remove them in the future, but do not do so. The tapers need to lock together to hold the the hub in place. The axle key should not be the only thing that keeps the hub from spinning on the axle. That's how you get a broken key and or axle. It's the friction of the mated tapers that hold it in place. Tighten the nut to 100 lbs ft. If the cotter pin does not line up at 100 lbs ft, do not loosen to make it fit! Rather grind down the back of the nut some (it'll just take a little) so you can line up the next slot in the nut.

06-08-2018, 09:41 AM	#5
100IH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: SW Idaho Posts: 970	Re: Rear Hub problem Approach the brakes with the attitude of "I can do this". Start reading old threads on brakes and rear axles. You'll need pictures to show to get meaningful answers. You need to pull the drums off, front and rear to measure and inspect for safety's sake, so get access to a puller and floor jack and stands. The fun begins.

06-08-2018, 10:47 AM	#6
Dennis D 1929 Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Posts: 55	Re: Rear Hub problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks to all who responded Youve all been a great help. One of my first questions was answered by Will N Apparently the shims are not a bearing surface. I cant picture how they install until I get in there and see for myself. Thanks again, if I have questions, you can bet I'll be back on.