Proper Operating Temp?

[CatMan1]

This is for my '28 Sport Coupe. Unfortunately I never measured the temps before I flushed the cooling system. I had noticed that there was an orange sludge in the radiator. This past Friday we flushed the cooling system using Blue Devil with de-greaser. It looks clean now and I see 'shiny' brass. On the hour drive to run the cleaner through it with just water, it would register 176 with an ambient temp of 73 on a cloudy day, highway 40mph drive. We put in 50/50 and new water pump, hoses. (it was needing those) Yesterday on a 30 mile round drive on the highway with an ambient temp of 85ish and sun the temp registered 190ish after I got home and the car was off. I'm using a large, old style thermometer.

So, what is a good temperature to be at? I don't think it's overheating. I don't see steam or smell coolant. I did probably overfill it some and a bit spit out, but not much. It doesn't run real smooth and hasn't since the last fill up. Might be another issue. Oh, should the radiator cap have a gasket on it?

[Jim Brierley]

Higher temps are better for the engine, more complete combustion, evaporates any water in the crankcase, etc. That's why modern engines run 190*, and hotter, stats. As long as it doesn't boil the coolant, you are OK.

[Big hammer]

Water in an open container boils at 212* IDK what anti-freeze boils at in an open container, if you want the temperature lower by 20-25* just run water + anti rust until freezing weather

[CatMan1]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

Water in an open container boils at 212* IDK what anti-freeze boils at in an open container, if you want the temperature lower by 20-25* just run water + anti rust until freezing weather

I'm thinking that is what I might do with it next year. Fall is here and it'll be freezing soon. I wanted to get it safe as well as flushed out. I may make it a habit of using just straight water in the warmer months. It'll also keep me in the habit of changing/flushing the cooling system.

[Crankster]

An awful lot of engines have been ruined over the years by running water as coolant, either due to corrosion or because of unseasonable cold snaps.

[700rpm]

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Crankster, if you are talking about Model A’s, I have to disagree with that. I have owned my 29 Tudor for 60 years and until two years ago ran only water, except in the winter, when I used denatured alcohol as an antifeeze. I have never experienced any adverse effects from that. I have owned over 20 Model A’s since 1961 and have run only water in all of them, except occasionally adding a small amount of water soluble oil to ward off rust. Those that were stored were drained and run for a minute to evaporate any moisture. If one takes proper care with their engines water works fine, at least in an Oregon environment.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by CatMan1

Yesterday on a 30 mile round drive on the highway with an ambient temp of 85ish and sun the temp registered 190ish after I got home and the car was off. I'm using a large, old style thermometer.

So, what is a good temperature to be at? I don't think it's overheating. I don't see steam or smell coolant. I did probably overfill it some and a bit spit out, but not much. It doesn't run real smooth and hasn't since the last fill up. Might be another issue. Oh, should the radiator cap have a gasket on it?

What was the temperature when to engine was running. The temperature will always go up when then engine is just sitting there and not circulating after a drive. heat soak... I would say what you are seeing in pretty normal.

And yes, your cap should have a gasket.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

...at least in an Oregon environment.

Your part of Oregon must not have any minerals in the water.

[CatMan1]

Originally Posted by The Master Cylinder

What was the temperature when to engine was running. The temperature will always go up when then engine is just sitting there and not circulating after a drive. heat soak... I would say what you are seeing in pretty normal.

And yes, your cap should have a gasket.

I didn't check it while it was running. I put the cap on too tight before the drive and didn't have pliers with me. When I checked it at home (found pliers) I had it shut off. I didn't think about that being a big difference at the time. I'll remember next time......

[eagle]

If everything is operating as it should be 50/50 antifreeze works just fine. Don't have to worry about freezing or corrosion. And yes, water will rust the block.

[1crosscut]

Pull the cap off of the radiator and stick a dial meat thermometer into the coolant and drive it that way. Stop often and check the temperature until you are comfortable with how it is running temperature wise. Sounds to me that you are probably running between 180 and 190. Perfectly acceptable temperature.

Run a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water and you will not have to worry about rust or freeze damage.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Ruth

Your part of Oregon must not have any minerals in the water.

Actually, our water is darn near perfect. Portland is served by the Bull Run reservoir, Mt. Hood snow melt, and if the federal government would just stop applying one size fits all water "refinements and regulations" Bull Run water would be perfect as is, and as it has been for 150 years.

[Bob Bidonde]

The operating temperature of the engine should be about the rating of its thermostat if running with one. Ideally, the Model "A" and Model "B" engines run well at 165F to 180F.

[CatMan1]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

The operating temperature of the engine should be about the rating of its thermostat if running with one. Ideally, the Model "A" and Model "B" engines run well at 165F to 180F.

I'm seeing mine in that range....nearly. I drove it some last night and it was around 176 then a few miles later it was around 190.

[nkaminar]

An infrared (IR) thermometer is pretty handy. If you measure the temperature of the engine pan, where the oil is, you will get a surprise. It can be a lot higher than the water temperature.