New '40 Sedan Replacement Starter

[mike42]

Guys.....

I just bought a new starter from C&G in Calif. I started to work on putting it in yesterday and there was a small piece of paper in the box with a goofy sketch saying that I have to grind a small amount of material off the mounting hole. This has to be done due to the diameter size of updated Bendix.

So....being the Holiday weekend I can't call anyone at C & G and I can't leave the car where it's at right now, so......

Has anyone done this and how much is a little bit of grinding ??

Thx.....Mike

[big job]

With good lighting hold starter in against the flywheel see if you can eyeball the
point of contact and grind a relief cut with dremal or air whizzer. Then its try and
grind. Not a real big deal just needs enough relief. Or you can measure the
original bendix and measure the new (fatter) bendix so you get a starting point.

[mike42]

Hey Big Job....thx. I just finished breakfast and you gave me a thought....I'm going to make a circular template and hold up to the mounting hole and scribe it and then grind it out !

Thx....Mike

[Kube]

Just a little "FYI"... a guy can still purchase a remanufactured starter from NAPA for a lot less $$$ than places like C&G. And, as a "bonus" they will fit and function correctly directly out of the box.
I just don't understand why folks continue to accept crap like this. Ya pay good $$$ for a starter - my thought is it should fit. Yes?

[4t8v8]

I put one of the new Bendixes on my 8BA. Wasn't hard to do. Mine cleared the mounting hole just fine. Had to grind a little on the cast bell housing. Used a small hand held air grinder. I did put a rag down inside the bell housing to prevent metal filings from getting down in there.

[Mac VP]

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We buy the starters without that barrel type drive mechanism. We then install a USA made Ford bendix style starter drive. Fits just like the original. This is the setup we prefer to sell. If you don't want to grind out part of your bell housing/starter plate, consider putting your original drive on the new starter.

[mike42]

Too late now !! What a pain in the ass. I had "NO" idea when I bought it that it was going to be like this. Trust me....if I did I sure the hell would not be doing what I'm doing !! I haven't replaced a starter in a car since '53 Ford in 1963 !! What a pain in the butt !

[mike42]

Mac VP...if I would have known you sold them that way I would have bought from you !

[mike42]

Well it's in and took a long time to grind a larger opening. Got it done, but when starting it turns slow for one crank and then spins fast and starts right up. I don't know what that means, but it's done ! Hope that's not a bad sign. Going to get the old one rebuilt.

Thx.....mike

[40 Deluxe]

[QUOTE "but when starting it turns slow for one crank and then spins fast and starts right up. I don't know what that means, but it's done ! Hope that's not a bad sign. Going to get the old one rebuilt.

Thx.....mike[/QUOTE]

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere in the starter circuit (loose/corroded cables or undersized cables) or a weak starter. It does not have the power to quickly get the engine up to normal cranking speed. Once the starter is at its rated speed, less power is needed to maintain that speed.

[mike42]

Thx Deluxe.......could it also be a solenoid going bad ? It made a clicking sound before I put the new starter on.

I'll check all the connections too.

Thx

[35fordtn]

If C&G sells the same "NEW" overseas produced starter that Mac's and others sell, you'll be luck to get 2 years out of it. They seem to have a lot less torque as well.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by mike42

Thx Deluxe.......could it also be a solenoid going bad ? It made a clicking sound before I put the new starter on.

I'll check all the connections too.

Thx

That clicking sound is usually a weak battery. Before you replaced the starter did you have the battery tested?

When a starter begins "hard" and then spins freely after a few seconds, that is usually a bad bushing or two.

[mike42]

35....it doesn't even work now yet alone 2 years. I'm taking out today ...putting in a box and sending back to C & G.

Kube....I keep battery on a tender all Winter and always have the battery checked each Spring and all was good. As far as the slow turn at first....nothing to worry about now, as it won't turn over at all now ! Taking out today as noted above and sending to C & G.

As a side note....I have never had a problem with C & G in 4 years and never gave it a thought that I would get a piece of junk !! I also had no idea that I had to grind the starter opening of the bell housing.

If I could attach it here...I'd show you guys the stupid ass sketch that was in the box ! My 7 year old Grand Daughter could draw better than that. It's the dumbest thing you ever saw and it's....wrong to boot !

I'm taking the old starter to an Electric Shop in town (which I should have done in the first place) have it rebuild and re-install. To make things worse....when taking the old one out....the start came apart and do you think I can get those brushes back in place ?? NO WAY !!

Man what a fun weekend this was.

Thx....Mike

[Robert/Texas]

I converted my ’34 to 12 volts about 20 years ago. The Bendix broke after about 15 years and I had a lot of trouble getting the starter out because of the tubular “Y” type headers that were on it. After I fixed the Bendix I couldn’t get the starter back on without removing the headers. I didn’t want to remove them as they are well rusted (not leaking though).

I bought a “Stump Puller” Chinese made starter from Speedway. This starter is very small and light weight. It doesn’t appear to have a Bendix and all is sealed so I don’t know how it works. The gear engages to the front of the flywheel. I thought of returning it.

Finally I installed and will probably never go back. It spins the engine much better than the old one ever did and the engine fires immediately. It’s kind of ugly though (not period correct).

[35fordtn]

Mike, having your original rebuilt is best. The armatures in the NEW starters seem to be junk.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

Mike, having your original rebuilt is best. The armatures in the NEW starters seem to be junk.

Mike, I do rebuild the proper core when restoring a vehicle. For those that can't do this or simply wish to obtain a "new" starter, I always recommend NAPA. Cost is about $100 and they are quality remanufactured units. Of course, you never know what date code you may receive and that doesn't "work" for me.

[35fordtn]

Mike,
Do you have a NAPA Part# ?

[mike42]

Kube..........do you have a NAPA part# for starter ? Can I buy just a Bendix from them ? If so do you have a part # for that also.

I did get a solenoid from NAPA and put that on, as the original burned out. Installed that and in a short while that burned out as well. In taking everything apart I noticed that the positive cable had melted !!

The guy at C & G tells me...y"es some other guys have had problems too" ! Really ? And you're still selling this crap ?? I also told him about the stupid sketch they enclosed in the box and he said they don't put a sketch in the box for this. I scanned a copy and sent to him.......no response ...very quiet now from C & G !

He did tell me the same as you guys did and that is to take off the new style Bendix and replace with the old Bendix. I'm hoping to save the starter itself, as I don't see C & G making an offer of return. If they have probs with other guys....why would you keep selling these damn things ?

What a nightmare this has turned into. Something that should take no longer than 30 minutes has turned into days and days !

I've ragged enough about this, but it really pisses me off !

Thx for the help......Mike

[mike42]

35......I have no NAPA part#'s. If you do please pass on. All help appreciated.

Thx...MIke