Engine won't start

[V12Bill]

Rebuilt 8BA in a 1950 F1. New coil, points, condenser, Cap, rotor, spark plug wires, plugs, new cowl harness. Found top dead center by pulling number 1 plug and holding thumb over hole and cranking until pressure blew my thumb off the hole. Lined pointer up to dot on crank pulley. Moved distributor until points were on high point of cam. Adjusted rebuilt carb needle valves to one turn open. When I turn the engine over, the engine fires as long as the starter is engaged. If the engine speeds up the starter will disengage and the engine stops. What am I overlooking . Any help would be appreciated on this very basic problem. I feel that I am very close to having the engine start, but am just missing it.

[JSeery]

Any way you have the starter and ignition wired together?

[George/Maine]

I think the ign is on key switch and the starter is a button on dash

[19Fordy]

Also, turn the carb needles 1 1/2 turns out.

[fordwife]

It sounds like the ignition is connected to the wrong side of the solenoid [starter side] and the starter has to be engaged for the coil to get power.

[drolston]

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Or, the ballast resistor could be burned out, or bad connection. Easy to check. With ignition on, is there approximately 4.5 volts on the ignition side of the coil.

[V12Bill]

Starter operates only when button is pushed. Had needle valves at 1 1/2 turns , but saw on tune up specs that it should be 1 turn. Also have fresh gas in tank. Will check fuel pressure from pump tomorrow. I am sure it is a timing issue. Not getting any back fire from carb or exhaust. I am sure that I am close, but no cigar.

[V12Bill]

I think that the ballast resister is built into the coil.

[tubman]

Reread entry #5.

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by V12Bill

Rebuilt 8BA in a 1950 F1. New coil, points, condenser, Cap, rotor, spark plug wires, plugs, new cowl harness. Found top dead center by pulling number 1 plug and holding thumb over hole and cranking until pressure blew my thumb off the hole. Lined pointer up to dot on crank pulley. Moved distributor until points were on high point of cam. Adjusted rebuilt carb needle valves to one turn open. When I turn the engine over, the engine fires as long as the starter is engaged. If the engine speeds up the starter will disengage and the engine stops. What am I overlooking . Any help would be appreciated on this very basic problem. I feel that I am very close to having the engine start, but am just missing it.

You don't want it on the high point of the cam. You want it to fire just as the points start to open.
Do your lights work with the engine off, if not you probably have the wire from the ammeter on the wrong side of the solenoid.

Bob

[edhd58]

hook a jumper wire from the battery to the coil, if it keeps running trace the ignition wiring??
Just thinking out loud

[George/Maine]

If you have a solenoid that has 2 wires one is to starter motor. Ford used the other to hot wire ign coil to by pass ballast resister. its hot when starting remove and put to ign key switch.

[V12Bill]

Just an up date on the status of my "she don't run" problem. I advanced the distributor as far as it would go and the engine fired up, but ran sickly. I got a timing light on it and it is very retarded. I think I need to advance the distributor another tooth to get it to run right. At the setting I am on the engine is over heating which tells me I am still retarded on my timing. Have a car show tomorrow, but will get back to it over the weekend and get this squared away. Thanks to all who offered suggestions.

[flatjack9]

Move the plug wires.

[Tinker]

On a 8ba I'd run a bubba unit. Advance is subject to a.. not so good vacuum setup. Crank is marked with 6 degrees out, I believe to start with.



Just my dime.