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Old 08-07-2018, 07:57 AM   #1
TheDude
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Default Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

Pulled the head on my 29' - it's a stock head and the car hasn't run since 1998. I'm just trying to get it back on the road. There is a crack between cylinders 2 & 3, but it runs all the way to the stud hold on one side. I the machine shop said they couldn't do anything for it and wouldn't necessarily be worried about it, but I wanted to get yall's take since you've probably seen it before. I also had some gunky and stuck valves that I've got working now, but how would I know if they need to be lapped? Also, the cylinder walls seem to be in decent shape with not pitting. Thanks!
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:09 AM   #2
Dave in MN
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

I have run heads like this and had no problems. If it weeps around the bolt, remove the nut and put a small amount of sealant between the nut and the head and sparingly on the threads.

I have repaired a number of these cracks by installing a cast iron guide in the hole and then spot facing the top side and surfacing the head. I ordered cast iron guides, a reamer .001" smaller than the o.d. of the guide. Drilled out the hole, reamed it, used a cotton swab to slather Red Loctite inside the hole and pressed the guide in.
After spot-facing the top, the guide is drilled out to the same size as a stock hole. Surfacing of the head is the last machining operation.

The cast iron guide with the sealant around it cuts off any water flow to the stud hole and expands at the same rate as the head with temperature change.

Good Day!

Last edited by Dave in MN; 08-07-2018 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:32 AM   #3
rocket1
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

you could just replace the head,bought the last two for $10.00 each,possibly someone in your area has one to sell.
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:44 AM   #4
larrys40
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

As dave said very common problem. Yes, you could look for a different head but they are not typically As cheap as above for a good one and then it needs blasting and surfacing unless you do that yourself. The Snyder 5.5 head is good but it is more money.
And I still give them a light surface as they are not always right on.

Dave’s fix is good or you can take your chance with a good head gasket install and seal and see how it does. I think a high percentage of the heads have those cracks. Even on many running cars.
Again, Dave’s fix is a good solid method.
Larry shepard
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:44 AM   #5
larrys40
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

As dave said very common problem. Yes, you could look for a different head but they are not typically As cheap as above for a good one and then it needs blasting and surfacing unless you do that yourself. The Snyder 5.5 head is good but it is more money.
And I still give them a light surface as they are not always right on.

Dave’s fix is good or you can take your chance with a good head gasket install and seal and see how it does. I think a high percentage of the heads have those cracks. Even on many running cars.
Again, Dave’s fix is a good solid method.
Larry shepard
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Old 08-07-2018, 11:35 AM   #6
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

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Guys, thanks for the feedback! I like Dave's suggestion, but I'm not sure I follow it entirely. So the guide installed on the stud hole, and you spot-face it to make sure the nut marries to the surface like it should? What do you use to spot-face it, and do you have a source for ordering the correct guide and reamer tool? Thanks again - I'm looking forward to getting this thing back on the road seeing as how I already missed my self-imposed 4th of July deadline.
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Old 08-07-2018, 11:57 AM   #7
BILL WILLIAMSON
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

Mine was similar, BUT, with a jar of old fashioned BARS-LEAKS, it NEVER gave any trouble.
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Old 08-07-2018, 12:50 PM   #8
Dave in MN
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

REPOST from 2014:

The repair shown below solves the problem with coolant leaking around a head stud and nut from a cracked head. Repaired...they don't leak!

The repair involves installing a cast iron sleeve in the stud hole that has a crack that runs into the water jacket. The sleeve is made from a cast iron valve guide.


Here is the cast iron guide and tooling info to complete the cracked head repair.....

The cast iron guide I use is available from Engine Parts Warehouse and possibly other sources.
The guide is: SBI #1408591
Outside diameter: .5635"
Length: 4" (I would have chosen a shorter guide...but couldn't find one...)

The ream is sized to be .001" smaller than the outside diameter of the guide. I use one from Rock River Tool #246518
Size is 9/16" or .5625"

The drill bit used to prep the hole for the reamer is a 9/16" undersize that mic's at .560".

You can use any cast iron guide that has an outside diameter close to the size above. I chose this particular guide because it left a reasonable amount of the original cast iron in the head available to surround the guide and the required .5625 (9/16") reamer is readily available. Don't go to much larger or you may machine or break into the water jacket area. When choosing the components you will use, the important thing to keep in mind is that you should have about .001" interference fit. Note that the ream referenced above is .001" smaller than the guide. The guide I chose has a chamfered end to make it easier to install and to allow the Loctite to build between the guide and the head as it is pressed in place...a sharp edge would just wipe the Loctite from the surfaces. I use a Bridgeport but you could use a good drill press...clamp the head on parallel bars top side up, locate the center of the hole being repaired, drill the hole and then ream the hole from the same "set-up". Remove the head to prepare for pressing the guide in place. I lightly but completely coat the surface of the drilled hole and the guide with Blue Loctite Gel and press it in place leaving a bit of the guide protruding from each side of the head. After installing the guide, rough cut the excess on both sides with a cut off blade installed in an angle grinder. Carefully grind the gasket side flush knowing that the final surface will be cleaned up when the head is surfaced. (I always lightly surface the head after making these repairs but it would not be necessary if the head was straight and you don't mess it up when flushing the guide.) The top side is then milled flush with the original surface. At this point the installed guide is drilled the same size as the original stud holes. The size of drill escapes me at the moment... just match the size to the original holes. I have included a photo of the items needed for the repair, two photos of the installed guide and a micrometer showing the size of the undersize drill bit.
I often repair two locations in a head as the adjoining hole to the distributor often has a similar crack. The installed guide photos below show the repair prior to the head being surfaced.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Good Day!
www.durableperformance.net
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Old 08-07-2018, 01:55 PM   #9
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

This is great Dave - thanks a ton!
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Old 08-07-2018, 02:41 PM   #10
Kurt in NJ
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

I just drilled a small hole and tapped it 1/2 way between the water hole and the stud hole--- screwed a brass machine screw (10/32?)in as far as it would go, cut it off and peined it flat-- couple of runs with a flat file, that was 30 years ago, still no leaks
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Old 08-07-2018, 10:32 PM   #11
w.michael
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

Private message sent.

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Old 08-08-2018, 02:04 PM   #12
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

why not public info!?
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Old 08-08-2018, 02:46 PM   #13
Benson
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

When is Pvt. Message going to be promoted?
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Old 08-08-2018, 06:41 PM   #14
TheDude
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Default Re: Head Crack Between Cylinders 2 & 3

Thanks everyone for the advice and responses! The private message Wayne sent was just exchanging contact info so he could send me information on the local club here in NC. I’ll keep everyone posted on progress as the journey continues...
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