stuck distributor puller

[wbs]

hello- it was suggested to get a puller-in looking at the mac's catalog, it says to thread the puller screw into the dist., do they mean to remove the screw immediately seen when the rotor is removed and put the puller screw there? sorry to be so basic, i'm a beginner

--also when using penetrating substance, do i squirt in the set screw removed area or at the junction of dist. cast iron housing and head?
finally, since my whole point is removing the armored cable so i can remove the gas tank, and i don't care about 100% authenticity, what if i cut the armor and its inner wire to allow tank removal, then splice in piece of elec. wire to reestablish the circuit after tank reinsertion?

[Joop]

take off the dash in the car, Loosen the popout (if you have one) Drain the water out of the radiator,
remove cable clamp from engine block and turn your popout cable slowly out and pull it from the inside behind the dash.

[Henry1953]

I wouldn't cut it. You will have to get the distributor out sooner or later, you may as well go ahead and pull it now. Put some penetrating oil on top of the head as well as the set screw hole. The alignment pin may be stuck in the top of the head contributing to the difficulty getting it to come out.

[Charles Coe]

Yes, the puller screws into the top of the distributor shaft once you remove the cam screw. You can use Joop's instructions to remove the switch with the distributor in place. I would not cut the armored cable.

[700rpm]

You will regret cutting that cable, IF you can even do it. They are very strong, not to mention valuable.

[Roger V]

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Since you're talking about the puller and penetrating oil, the distributor casting must be stuck. Or are you assuming you need to get a puller, etc.? If you don't really know it's stuck or it is "lightly" stuck, you could flood the area between the head and the distributor. Make sure the set screw is completely removed to insure the tip isn't catching in the groove of the distributor. Then gingerly (how's that for a word?) pry up between the distributor and the head on opposing sides with a couple of screwdrivers. Only do this with light pressure. Most of the time it works. Just don't break off the distributor base in the head or you'll have to remove the head and drive it out.

[1955cj5]

This is the distributor set screw.....I didn't know how to tighten or loosen the distributor at first either....

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

This is the distributor set screw.....I didn't know how to tighten or loosen the distributor at first either....

loosen the nut then the screw that is threaded for the nut.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

There are some folks that NEED some QUALIFIED, HANDS ON, HELP.
Bill W.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by wbs

.... since my whole point is removing the armored cable so i can remove the gas tank, and i don't care about 100% authenticity, what if i cut the armor and its inner wire to allow tank removal, then splice in piece of elec. wire to reestablish the circuit after tank reinsertion?

A working pop out switch is valued at between 200 and 400.00. Sure you want to cut it?

[Tom Wesenberg]

I would never purposely damage a good original part just to try to make some job easier. If the distributor is stuck, then buy the puller and make the job easy. Also spray Kroil in the setscrew hole and at the base where it meets the head.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I would never purposely damage a good original part just to try to make some job easier. If the distributor is stuck, then buy the puller and make the job easy. Also spray Kroil in the setscrew hole and at the base where it meets the head.

Tom,
I grind off the distributor locating dowel pin & just align it by "eye" Then, if it ever seizes, I can turn it with a hammer a drift, to rotate it & break it loose. I grind a SHARP point on the distributror locating screw, to lessen the chance of it ever turning. I also, put lots wheel bearing grease in the hole & push the distributor down & the excess "squishes" out & "hopefully" leaves no room for condensation to accumulate in the distributor bore in the head.
Moisture in the head bore, seized up & RUINED Minervas' beautiful Mallory Distributor, even though it had sealed, never to be lubricated, bearings ! Sacramento Vintage wouldn't warranty it, but was kind enough to give me a HEALTHY DISCOUNT on a NEW one!!!
Bill W.

[wbs]

thanks to all who reponded- i never did get the dist off but by disconnecting the ign. cable and wire from the coil to key end of cable and removing a rubber tube that the ign cable passed thru the firewall , i was able by simultaneous rotating tthe cable end on the passenger side and the dist. side ctr clockwise unscrew the nipple from the distr. and i was in business . thanks again to all answered.
by the way does anyone happen to know where i can get a 5/16-28 tpi bolt? it's a non standard bolt