turn sigtnals

[daveymc29]

I got a set of turn signal lights, front and back. I am replacing some that fit into the space between the bumper bars as those are quite low and on my roadster they are hard to see when following me in town. So I hooked them up and did a test, viola, lights blink as requested. Pull out the warning flasher switch and all four flash and two stop lights in the rear also flash. Great. Then back to a right turn signal, blinks for several flashes and seems to slow down the interval and eventually quits blinking. Left turn did the same. Back to the flashers and they are cooperating, blinking away. After a bit the turn signals work again, then seem to get tired and rest a bit. Something needs another ground or some more load? This is a stock, almost, six volt positive ground system, running with a generator and cutout. Any clues? The turn signal set up is the only nonstock stuff in the electrical system. Good battery and no other issues at this point.

[Tacoma Bob]

MMMm There has been some discussion about led lights. I run the logo lights with 12v with no issues. Sorry I don't have a snappy answer. Is everything ok regarding grounding issues?

[Herb Concord Ca]

Dave, you need to add load resistors, one on each side to ground. You need more current flowing through the flasher for it to flash at a faster rate. A 6 ohm 20 Watt resistor show work. They will get warm so watch were you mount them. The suppliers sell load resistors.

[Big hammer]

With or without engine running at a fast idle ?

[GRutter]

Switch to an electronic 6v flasher. They flash at the same rate independent of load

[shew01]

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Originally Posted by GRutter

Switch to an electronic 6v flasher. They flash at the same rate independent of load

When I tried that with my LED lights, the electronic flasher worked fine with the engine off, but it went nuts from the static created by the engine when it was running. (I tried multiple electronic flashers with similar results.) I use spark plug straps, rather than shielded spark plug wires, and I think the (unshielded) straps were causing the problem for the electronic 6v flasher for me.

I had better luck with a NOS Ideal 535 thermal flasher from eBay. It’s not perfect (for me), but the signal lights do work fairy reliably. (The pilot light on my Signal Stat switch does not work as it should, but at least the signal lights work.) Patrick L seems well versed in signal switches.


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[nkaminar]

Load resistors work for me on my Model A.

I put LED's in my 2016 Chevy pickup. I tried to put an electronic flasher in. I searched for hours to find the flasher by following the clicking sound. Turns out the clicking sound is generated by the computer and played through the speakers. I went with the load resistors for the pickup too.

[Patrick L.]

Is your turn switch well grounded ?
It sounds as if you have a flasher issue. Most thermal flashers today are junk. Try an old 535.

Fast flashing means more current load is needed. Slow or intermittent flashing usually means a poor ground or bad flasher.

[Badpuppy]

Originally Posted by daveymc29

I got a set of turn signal lights, front and back. I am replacing some that fit into the space between the bumper bars as those are quite low and on my roadster they are hard to see when following me in town. So I hooked them up and did a test, viola, lights blink as requested. Pull out the warning flasher switch and all four flash and two stop lights in the rear also flash. Great. Then back to a right turn signal, blinks for several flashes and seems to slow down the interval and eventually quits blinking. Left turn did the same. Back to the flashers and they are cooperating, blinking away. After a bit the turn signals work again, then seem to get tired and rest a bit. Something needs another ground or some more load? This is a stock, almost, six volt positive ground system, running with a generator and cutout. Any clues? The turn signal set up is the only nonstock stuff in the electrical system. Good battery and no other issues at this point.

With a 535 flasher and LED lamps, you need a ballast resistor on each side, as Herb says. An E-flasher will solve this problem, but many experience erratic behavior with engine running.

[Badpuppy]

Originally Posted by shew01

When I tried that with my LED lights, the electronic flasher worked fine with the engine off, but it went nuts from the static created by the engine when it was running. (I tried multiple electronic flashers with similar results.) I use spark plug straps, rather than shielded spark plug wires, and I think the (unshielded) straps were causing the problem for the electronic 6v flasher for me.

I had better luck with a NOS Ideal 535 thermal flasher from eBay. It’s not perfect (for me), but the signal lights do work fairy reliably. (The pilot light on my Signal Stat switch does not work as it should, but at least the signal lights work.) Patrick L seems well versed in signal switches.


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The SS comes with a 12V pilot bulb. Switch it out with a #44 or #51 6V and it should work.

[1931 flamingo]

Try another flasher.......................
Paul in CT

[daveymc29]

Thanks all. Off to the store for 6 ohm, 20 watt resistor. Will get two and try that. All my parts are old from the 50's, except me, I'm from the 30's. Curious also to see what it does with the engine running. Will try that first.

Dave

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Badpuppy

The SS comes with a 12V pilot bulb. Switch it out with a #44 or #51 6V and it should work.

I did that when I first purchased the switch (with a 6V bulb that I purchased separately), and I tested the bulb out side of the switch as well. The bulb works, but not in the switch. It's something to do with the light LED light load. Every once in a blue moon, the bulb works in the switch, but not for long.

Thanks for the response, though.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Try another flasher.......................
Paul in CT

I've been through 6 or flashers....

[CarlG]

If you have 12 volts, this flasher is the one that finally worked for me. I have all LEDs, front & back.

[Ed in Maine]

I recently purchased a Model A and it had a SignalStat system. It was a mess with wires of all the same color and many disconnected. I removed everything, rewired it with the correct color codes per SgnalStat and purchased a new NAPA 535 Flasher. It works perfectly except for the inside pilot light on the control. I haven't checked it yet but I think the bulb could be 12v and I am running six volts. Ed

[AL in NY]

davymc29: Here is the flasher you need for 6 volt positive ground LED turn signals. I have used to flasher for 8 months and it works great. Sorry, the first image on the left is for a negative ground system. Use the information in the photo on the right for a positiveground electronic flasher.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Ed in Maine

I recently purchased a Model A and it had a SignalStat system. It was a mess with wires of all the same color and many disconnected. I removed everything, rewired it with the correct color codes per SgnalStat and purchased a new NAPA 535 Flasher. It works perfectly except for the inside pilot light on the control. I haven't checked it yet but I think the bulb could be 12v and I am running six volts. Ed

That is similar to my experience, except I am sure that I replaced the 12V bulbs with a 6V bulb. That bulb, on rare occasion, actually works when it’s in the right “mood.”


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[Big hammer]

I had an old ford 12 volt generator that the turn signals would work slow or not with the engine not running. I asked a police officer ( sir the signals only work with the engine running and that's when I need the flashers with the engine running please may I start the engine !) Didn't get a ticket for that only the speeding ticket.....27 mph in a 25 mph zone ?

[Badpuppy]

Originally Posted by shew01

I did that when I first purchased the switch (with a 6V bulb that I purchased separately), and I tested the bulb out side of the switch as well. The bulb works, but not in the switch. It's something to do with the light LED light load. Every once in a blue moon, the bulb works in the switch, but not for long.

Thanks for the response, though.

The bulb also needs a good ground. Some instructions say scratch paint off the column, but I don't like that. I hooked a small gauge wire between housing and clamp and ran it down the column to the cowl loom screw, attached with ring lug and #12-24 nut.