Jetzt, da der Staub gelegt hat, seine Zeit bei der Arbeit

[fordman67]

Such well prepared polished wood.wish I had that much patience.

[ppat324]

Originally Posted by fordman67

Such well prepared polished wood.wish I had that much patience.

Not sure if it is patience or just being anul. With just the Roamer to keep up with now, it shall be easy!! ppat

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Is that a hint the other boat sold? Today's been a little better. Still pissed about last nights visit from the Ex but what can I say? At least she's helping me out with my finances and I can't stay pissed too long because she really is a great person. This is just another temporary glitch in our well-oiled divorce.

Went out in the shop today and turned on the heat. And I had no heat. Something is either hosed up with the thermostat or the gas valve/switch inside the heater. It's a low pressure system and didn't need a regulator so that leaves that out and it's got good gas flow through the line. I found that out while bleeding the line checking it for a possible air bubble. So tomorrows project will involve getting that to work. Then reload everything on the truck again and head for Andy's. Yee Haw. He's told everyone in the club that we'll be setting my engine in the body during the next meeting and that's a week from this coming Saturday. Yee Haw. My shop will be clean and my tools will be ready to go. Yee Haw. Dang I feel a really good mood coming on. Just a little more prozac and a touch of Windsor and I'll be ready to go. Yee Haw. Sometimes you gotta love Schizophrenia. Mike said that. And so did I!

[fordman67]

Man am I glad to hear that come from you Mike! maybe I will work a bit on my engine even in celabratory fashion for you!

PPat I am in awe of anyone that is that dedicated...I am just to impatient.

[yachtsmanbill]

Good things come to those who wait... The gas heater in the shop here acts up sometimes too... the T stat is mounted on a cold outside wall for one, and the thermo couple I think has a burned paint overspray film on it... needs cleaning.
Broker hsas a showing on the Hatteras today!! Ive got all 12 fingers crossed! All I want out of it is what I paid for it in 2005. Believe you me Ive got 4X that into it now. Storage and insurance runs about 5K / year and thats on the ground in Chicago. Theres only 1 or 2 yards up here that can handle it and the bastards are all "Green" marinas... Sure dont want the racoons licking anti freeze off the ground now do we ??? ws

[fordman67]

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Well then you are in luck,antifreeze is green so there you go!commie thugs are taking over...

[yachtsmanbill]

Im stumped... can anyone get me an approximate measurement as shown, from the brake pedal to the end of the cowl, or dash board or some other decent reference point? This needs to be from a 26-27 model only. ws

[yachtsmanbill]

Got the frame rails decked today... YIPEEEE!!!! Once its all done. Itll come off and get painted flat black, of course! Everything from there down is black and from there up is POLLINATOR YELLOW!
Its a lot of fun trying to figure out what goes where when none of it is from the same years... After I get a cowl mocked up Ill be able to figure out some floor board bracing. Until then Im only able to measure air and its pretty thin out there in the shop LOL...maybe its MY altitude haha! ws



Im able to utilize a bunch of boat hardware all in stainless of course...



just like boatbuilding only different



starting to get it zeroed in... the air is beginning to solidify at the red line on the cardboard. Its finally coming together!

[yachtsmanbill]

Once again, I wish I couldve done this in one piece, but air is just too arbitrary to measure from. Figgered out a nice compound curve from the radiator, to the firewall, to the cowl and into the seating bucket.
The fuel tank will be free standing behind the seat with a small trunk on the back with a step inside to hide the lowered rear crossmember... Still need a rear spring U bolt mounted spare tire carrier to mount a double spare tire arraingement on. Anybody have a spare one??? ws



floorboards are gonna be a sweet custom fit, maybe skinned with some 1/8 diamond plate... we shall see.



Floorboards arte gonna sit on 1/8" steel battens fastened into the main floor and easy to lift out for service... just like the originals!



This shows the attitude of the cowl (not the length yet!) and the one inch rounded reveal around the hood former

[Jack Innes]

Bill,

I am not sure what you need but here is the measurement from the brake pedal and the clutch pedal to the firewall on an original 26 touring.

The pedals were pulled back to the stops, remember the 26 firewall is not flat from side to side.

The touring frame mounted spare bracket tilts the spare(s) back - maybe too much for a speedster. The roadster mount bolts to the body. You may want to make a mount like a Stutz Bearcat.

The touring was a one owner car when I bought it in 2000. It has never been apart - it was painted civil defense white during WWII then black in 1950. It belonged to a doctor in Ok.

These can be found in one of my barns --- does that make them "Barn Finds?"

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

Im stumped... can anyone get me an approximate measurement as shown, from the brake pedal to the end of the cowl, or dash board or some other decent reference point? This needs to be from a 26-27 model only. ws

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

[Jack Innes]

OH poo, now I see what you are doing! I am on the way back to the barn with a level & tape measure. Stay tuned!

[yachtsmanbill]

Thanks Jack... the measurement is purely arbitrary... just want to keep the proportions from looking exagerated! The firewall and mid steering column mount is a given as is the lower mount too. I didnt want to end up with the wheel against the dash, yet still wanted a bit of enclosure for the feet and a false sense of security for my wife LOL... ws



Pretty barbaric, but I hope it conveys what Im after...

On the spare mount... I know what your saying about the tires "laying" backwards. Id cut and reweld the plate so they hang like a coupe. The frame mount style is way stronger for holding a double spare. I hate to have the weight on the trunk lid also as that needs to be rather accessable; you know, "girl stuff" goes in there! LOL

another poor rendition... gotta bo make dinner...

[Jack Innes]

Bill,

I think this will do. The measurement from the firewall in the same plane as the frame to firewall brackets to the rolled back edge of the cowl is 13 3/4" The dash board sits about 3/4" forward of the rolled edge.

[yachtsmanbill]

Thank you sooo much Jack !! 13-3/4 inches is what we are gonna call it with 13 to the dash face. I didnt want to hap hazard a guess and have it look lousy! A lot of them Ive seen look pitifully home made. This is gonna look like somebody came over and did i! Thanks again!! ws

[[email protected]]

Geez Jack it looks like someone parked a whole lot of really nice Model T's in your barn. Will, You're starting to build that body and that's a good thing. But, and it's a big "but", Have you heard that motor run yet? I wanna hear that motor run. Why hasn't that motor been fired up yet? Geez, I would have had that motor run already. But I guess I'm not you. So It ain't up to me. But I sure wish you'd start that motor.
Spent the day over at Mr Loso's today putting together the best parts we could dig out and put together in order to find 3 drums that would work for me. In the end I didn't end up with the best in the world but they're the best we could find and as hard as Andy worked to find them they will be good for a long time. That guy would work circles around me when I was his age. And though he and his father-in-law have a propensity for BS they're both fun to spend the day with. And tomorrow I'm going to do it again. Still gotta spray the pan with gunk in the morning and drag it to a carwash somewhere. Then bead blast the last of the clutch parts and I'm done at Andy's. Then I'm going to decide what I'm going to do with the one thing that got me to tear my model t apart in the first place. I've still got to take my rear main in and have the fellow that does the rebabitting on our T's at National Bushing and have him do something with my rear main thrust. I was going to do it myself but I might as well have him do it correctly. Hopefully I'll be ready to take a look at the main with some plastigage and get it fitted some time after he get's back from Chickasha. I really wanted to have my engine ready to put in the body a week from Saturday at the meeting we'll be having at my house but it's not going to go that way. So I'm going to push everything back and let people work on their own projects. Maybe I'll get Andy to sell me a rebuild kit for a starter and rebuild it during the meeting. I'm sure there'll be enough guys around that I can put to work. I'll have to see what it's going to take to get my house ready to. Usually at these meeting the wives get the house ready and the husbands get the shop ready. Well, without a wife I've got quite a week coming up. So that's my thoughts for tonight. Sorry about rambling on so much. It's just that some time a persons got to dump everything out on the table just to get his head right. Pat, I'm still waiting for some potato salad. I had egg salad today at Andy's and it was good but it really made me think of your potato salad. So now I gotta hit the rack. I'm tired and tomorrows another day. Peace, out.

[yachtsmanbill]

Theres a few different schools of thought on the rear main bearing deal. For those who dont know, the solutionb is to get a new main poured and fit the thrust accordinly... for those who DO know, the thrust is set by adjusting the rear main as follows...
Get the three mains set for clearance as normal. With the rear main just snug set a dial indicator up on the trans flange. Check the total thrust as usual. With a mallet, tap the crank all the way back so that its up against the thrust face on the upper. Tap the lower main so its all the way back against the crank flange. Verify with a feeler gage for .000. Now tap the crank forward against the back of the lower. Snug it down and check the total travel. This way the rear thrust is set against the upper and the forward thrust is set against the lower. Mine had a total of .018 which is dead MAG territory. Now it set at a respectable .003 and the MAG puts out 5 volts at hand cranking speed on blocks. Its a little wobbly that way and I expect 6-7 when bolted down for keeps. Rear mains are set the same way on straight 6s, 454s and 645E Electro-Motives, Pratt & Whitney gas turbines and General Electric steam turbines. Thrust is thrust. PERIOD.
You will have to set the mag coil for level and clearance against the magnets. The exspurts say you can only do this with the block vertically, but I do mine with a hoist on the tail shaft holding up about 75 lbs, or the majority of the trans weight. Its a Model T... not the space shuttle.
Two more weeks and Ill put some fire in the boiler. Need to get controls rigged up in the cockpit first LOL... ws

[yachtsmanbill]

Potato salads' all gone, but the stuffed shells with Ricotta were quite excellent! A reward for a hard day in the man cave!

Started out today by pulling the deck up for some satin black rustoleo. Set it upside down and did the bottom, came in for some coffee and let it dry for a while. Went back out and set it back down and painted the top... looks magnificent!
Moved on to making an adapter for my new 3 jaw chuch for the lathe. Layed it out and drilled and tapped 3 new holes in the back. Bolted that to a face plate and set it up on the machine and ran it out to
.000-.000-.000-.000. Test run made the OSO mount bushing for the extended hand crank.
Finished up trimming the running board braces, and securing the new steps to the frame. Those braces are 1/8 chrome vanadium steel and required the portaband to trim them. Them old Fords used some tuff stuff!!! ws

[yachtsmanbill]

Since it was 59-63/64ths degrees today I opened up the shop to regenerate some oxygen...damn sparkies wouldnt stay lit anymore. Got a rare glimpse of the stinger end of the POLLINATOR! ws

[yachtsmanbill]

Being cheap, I started out making this bushing with a bronxe 1-1/4 NPT coupling. It get finished by installing brass plugs and boring to suit. Its just a support for the extended twister. After its done Ill take two cranks, cut them and reweld into one longer unit... Im fresh out of 3/4 bar stock or I wouldnt sacrifice the extra one Ive got... ws







I know that since all the lurkers have been paying attention, this is all starting to make sense. The last pic shows the alignment up to and including the center drill on the crankshaft stub...

[yachtsmanbill]

Thanks again to ANDY!!!

Finished up with the running boards. Had a bunch of stainless fasteners from the boat supply box and used them accordingly... most of the new bolts on this job are SS so theres little chance of rust... ws