The Ford Barn

Mart · 08-16-2018, 03:59 AM

Not sure if it has been mentioned, but the filter looks very dirty. Have you tried replacing it?

tubman · 08-16-2018, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mart

Not sure if it has been mentioned, but the filter looks very dirty. Have you tried replacing it?

I agree with "Mart" on this. It looks to me that either the filter may be dirty or the fuel may be contaminated. Another thing I would look at is the rubber line from the carburetor to the distributor. I have always seen hard lines here and would make sure the proper fittings have been used so there are no leaks.

RKS.PA · 08-16-2018, 08:25 AM

Count me in on the fuel filter and the color of the gas. Looks pretty bad to me and an easy fix. Also, could explain your symptoms!!!

1930 turbo · 08-16-2018, 10:41 AM

Try running it without the air filter. Some aftermarket air filters are very restrictive and make for a bad running flathead. KN makes a good air filter. Good luck!

tubman · 08-16-2018, 10:58 AM

Here's my solution to those restrictive little air filters everybody seems to have.

I have since changed to something better.

slowforty · 08-16-2018, 10:18 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Another issue could be the out put on the charging system. I had the same problem with my car. Started and ran good but would not go down the road
. The charging system was weak and not putting out enough juice.

twc · 08-17-2018, 09:49 PM

I will get at it tomorrow morning with all the great advice. thanks. i will let you know what I find out.

twc · 08-18-2018, 08:18 PM

how would i determine if the generator is charging correctly? would it be similar to checking an alternator with a voltmeter on the battery? could the swap from 12v pos ground to neg ground cause an issue? when I was a teen the generator worked if I drove it enough but from time to time would need a charge. this is just a generator issue I believe.

a few months ago I drove it and it would go about a 1/4 mile and die. now it will not go a few hundred feet before it dies.

i will install the new napa coil tomorrow and see if that does anything. fuel is good, filter was ugly and yellow so i put a new one on anyway that looks better.

Tinker · 08-19-2018, 12:02 AM

You have a voltage Regulator, early fords used a cutout. Cutouts are off or on only charge.

I'm assuming you have a 12 volt regulator and gen to this point.

Yes check volts to the battery above idle. Regulators need to be polarized, may or may not be an issue on your switch. Hard to say..

Tinker · 08-19-2018, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twc

I have a rebuilt 50 flatty with a 97 holley/ford 3 spd tranny. all new and rebuilt, will idle well and sounds good except for a bit of a stutter when you hit the throttle. I get it on the road and it cant handle the load and coughs and stutters and dies. it will always start back up but not quickly. dont know if it is timing or carburation. i have an electric fuel pump from napa, and an in line regulator on full flow (5). any ideas why it will not get going down the road?

You fix this? Look at coil, ignition and fuel. Most ignition issues are fuel. and vice versa.

I'll bet, coil/condenser/ignition here. classic hot coil symptoms. but...

fordv8j · 08-19-2018, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreenMonster48

I'd like to throw a monkey wrench in. While it does sound like fuel delivery, I've seen similar symptoms with mismatched coil/resistors (i.e. having an external resistor, and an internally resisted coil).

I run a round coil on our 38dlx. coupe, got one at NAPA, the car started and idled fine, but wouldn't pull itself, they had given me one with the resister built in, got one without resister ran fine....just a thought

twc · 08-19-2018, 08:36 PM

new napa coil, bypassed the fuel filter and regulator, checked timing, set at 17 btdc, 2 plug wires were not firing, got this fixed. still the same. checked the generator, 12.41 volts off, running at 12.31 volts. doesn't seem to be charging which could be the issue. I will check the condensor as well. i think I have multiple items to work on. thanks for the advice and i will keep you posted.

JSeery · 08-19-2018, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twc

new napa coil, bypassed the fuel filter and regulator, checked timing, set at 17 btdc, 2 plug wires were not firing, got this fixed. still the same. checked the generator, 12.41 volts off, running at 12.31 volts. doesn't seem to be charging which could be the issue. I will check the condensor as well. i think I have multiple items to work on. thanks for the advice and i will keep you posted.

What does timing set at 17 btdc refer to? At what rpm is that? Initial timing should be around 2 to 4 degrees, 17 degrees would be at something like 2000 to 2500 rpm. Voltage running (with rpms above idle) should be in the 14 volt range.

Tinker · 08-19-2018, 09:12 PM

Agreed doesn't make sense.

Believe initial is around 4 degrees before tdc. Around 22-8-sh all in for "standard" performance.

To add another wrench stuck valves could give symptoms you are describing. Some MMO down the throat and some in the gas will loosing them up, easy process and practice. Can't hurt.

....But your timing is not right, if that's really how it is. Change one thing at a time to fine tune it.

twc · 08-20-2018, 09:55 PM

JSeery, Tinker, ill check the timing again. what rpm for 2-4 degrees? what does 22-8-sh mean? great idea of MMO. a compression test would diagnose a stuck valve, correct.

I am also looking at the generator not genning. looking at a Powermaster 82021 alternator. anyone have any experience with this unit? its 350 bucks so not cheap.

thanks for the help.

JSeery · 08-20-2018, 10:04 PM

Initial timing is checked at idle (normally somewhere around 500 rpm or less). Timing should be all in around 2000 - 2500 rpm and be around 22 degrees or less. How are you checking the timing, a dial back timing light? How are you checking the rpm? Which spark plug are you using as #1?

twc · 08-20-2018, 10:25 PM

#1 plug wire, closest to the distributor, using a bosch timing light that can show the rpm and advance-retard the degrees. checking timing with the vac advance plugged. i think i need to rotate the distributor one gear tooth. could be part of my problem. thanks man.

flatheadmurre · 08-21-2018, 12:56 AM

If it´s the original loadamatic distributor and you plug the vaccum you should in theory get a static timing....

revkev6 · 08-21-2018, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

If it´s the original loadamatic distributor and you plug the vaccum you should in theory get a static timing....

no "in theory" about it. I drive a 36 ford stock car with an 8ba in it and when the owner's electronic mallory fried I took his stock 8ba unit and dropped it in minus vacuum. set the timing to 16 degrees and she runs and starts like a champ. figured I would get some starter kick back but at 12v no issues.

JSeery · 08-21-2018, 07:32 AM

If you are going to drive it with the vacuum hooked up, you need to check it with the vacuum hooked it. It in not like a later distributer with both mechanical and vacuum advance (assuming original loadamatic), it only has vacuum advance and will not operate as designed without the vacuum connected.

08-16-2018, 03:59 AM	#41
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,750	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. Not sure if it has been mentioned, but the filter looks very dirty. Have you tried replacing it?

08-16-2018, 08:25 AM	#43
RKS.PA Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marana, AZ Posts: 1,194	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. Count me in on the fuel filter and the color of the gas. Looks pretty bad to me and an easy fix. Also, could explain your symptoms!!!

08-16-2018, 10:41 AM	#44
1930 turbo Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Corry, Pa. Posts: 7	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. Try running it without the air filter. Some aftermarket air filters are very restrictive and make for a bad running flathead. KN makes a good air filter. Good luck!

08-16-2018, 10:18 PM	#46
slowforty Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tinley Park Ill Posts: 1,060	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Another issue could be the out put on the charging system. I had the same problem with my car. Started and ran good but would not go down the road . The charging system was weak and not putting out enough juice.

08-17-2018, 09:49 PM	#47
twc Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 15	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. I will get at it tomorrow morning with all the great advice. thanks. i will let you know what I find out.

08-18-2018, 08:18 PM	#48
twc Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 15	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. how would i determine if the generator is charging correctly? would it be similar to checking an alternator with a voltmeter on the battery? could the swap from 12v pos ground to neg ground cause an issue? when I was a teen the generator worked if I drove it enough but from time to time would need a charge. this is just a generator issue I believe. a few months ago I drove it and it would go about a 1/4 mile and die. now it will not go a few hundred feet before it dies. i will install the new napa coil tomorrow and see if that does anything. fuel is good, filter was ugly and yellow so i put a new one on anyway that looks better.

08-19-2018, 12:02 AM	#49
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. You have a voltage Regulator, early fords used a cutout. Cutouts are off or on only charge. I'm assuming you have a 12 volt regulator and gen to this point. Yes check volts to the battery above idle. Regulators need to be polarized, may or may not be an issue on your switch. Hard to say..

08-19-2018, 08:36 PM	#52
twc Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 15	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. new napa coil, bypassed the fuel filter and regulator, checked timing, set at 17 btdc, 2 plug wires were not firing, got this fixed. still the same. checked the generator, 12.41 volts off, running at 12.31 volts. doesn't seem to be charging which could be the issue. I will check the condensor as well. i think I have multiple items to work on. thanks for the advice and i will keep you posted.

08-19-2018, 09:12 PM	#54
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. Agreed doesn't make sense. Believe initial is around 4 degrees before tdc. Around 22-8-sh all in for "standard" performance. To add another wrench stuck valves could give symptoms you are describing. Some MMO down the throat and some in the gas will loosing them up, easy process and practice. Can't hurt. ....But your timing is not right, if that's really how it is. Change one thing at a time to fine tune it. Last edited by Tinker; 08-19-2018 at 09:24 PM.

08-20-2018, 09:55 PM	#55
twc Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 15	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. JSeery, Tinker, ill check the timing again. what rpm for 2-4 degrees? what does 22-8-sh mean? great idea of MMO. a compression test would diagnose a stuck valve, correct. I am also looking at the generator not genning. looking at a Powermaster 82021 alternator. anyone have any experience with this unit? its 350 bucks so not cheap. thanks for the help.

08-20-2018, 10:04 PM	#56
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. Initial timing is checked at idle (normally somewhere around 500 rpm or less). Timing should be all in around 2000 - 2500 rpm and be around 22 degrees or less. How are you checking the timing, a dial back timing light? How are you checking the rpm? Which spark plug are you using as #1?

08-20-2018, 10:25 PM	#57
twc Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 15	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. #1 plug wire, closest to the distributor, using a bosch timing light that can show the rpm and advance-retard the degrees. checking timing with the vac advance plugged. i think i need to rotate the distributor one gear tooth. could be part of my problem. thanks man.

08-21-2018, 12:56 AM	#58
flatheadmurre Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Sweden Posts: 3,045	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. If it´s the original loadamatic distributor and you plug the vaccum you should in theory get a static timing....

08-21-2018, 07:32 AM	#60
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: 50 flatty idles well revs okay, but will not drive down the road. If you are going to drive it with the vacuum hooked up, you need to check it with the vacuum hooked it. It in not like a later distributer with both mechanical and vacuum advance (assuming original loadamatic), it only has vacuum advance and will not operate as designed without the vacuum connected.