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Old 11-16-2019, 09:42 PM   #21
thom
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Default Re: #1 cylinder not doing it's share

I have eight new valves now but have not yet removed all the old ones. The ones I have removed and checked with a new one don't have enough clearance even with the adjustable lifters run all the way down. I suppose I will take them to the local machine shop and have some taken off, but how much should I have removed? I don't know how much adjustment adjustable lifters have built in them.
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Old 11-17-2019, 12:03 PM   #22
redmodelt
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Default Re: #1 cylinder not doing it's share

Sorry but, without us being there to see whats what, the only suggestion would be to check the total length of the old valves and have the new ones ground to an average length. As long as there is some stem between the spring keepers and end you should be ok. Take the minimum off and still be able to adjust for gap. Depending on how deep the valve sits in the block, you may or may not need to take a little more off. Even with original valve setup, stem grinding was part of getting new valves.
To add to this, not all lifters are the same. I have an set that was short two and found replacements. The two I found are taller then the rest so and to grind the stems to fit those two. That goes to illustrate that there is no magic number to pass on.
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Last edited by redmodelt; 11-17-2019 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 11-18-2019, 10:06 AM   #23
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Default Re: #1 cylinder not doing it's share

If the removed valves were in the middle of the adjustment range dictated by the adjustable followers then their length could be used but I would measure them all and find an average to settle upon. It's not too late to check this before the grinding process begins. The measurement should be taken from the top of the valve seating surface and not the overall length. A person can only use overall length if they compare with the new valves. Wear and resurfacing can take a lot away from the face of an old valve. Hopefully, most of your old valves are the same length. I have tools for measuring distance from the valve seat to the follower but not all shops have the old flathead stuff.

Are your new valves pin type keeper or tapered lock type?. I also worry about valves that are all stainless steel. The stems can sometimes gall on these unless there is plenty of clearance with the guide. Snyder's recommends .010" clearance but that is more than I would like. If the guides are relined with brass or bronze sleeves then they won't gall. If the stems are steel and the heads are stainless then there is no problem. A magnet will tell. Some folks use the Ford Y-block valves but they are tapered lock type. If you prefer pin type then those are out. There are also oversize valve stem concerns. Later engines don't go oversize. Talk to your machinist and find out if he is experienced with this antiquated way of engine valve work. It would help if they are experienced and know what to watch out for. Hopefully your tappets are all a good fit in their bores. They have oversizes for them too.

Last edited by rotorwrench; 11-18-2019 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 11-18-2019, 11:05 AM   #24
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Default Re: #1 cylinder not doing it's share

RE; Snyder's recommends .010" clearance but that is more than I would like.
The is the lifter to stem gap not the stem to guide clearance.



For stem size new valves; Original style with the pin; they are made for one of 3 sizes std, .015 OS and .030 OS. The reams sold for the two over size, I have had no issues with the original style replacement valve using the ream as sold in the engines I have rebuilt for customers with the stock cast iron guides.
The modern type sold in most catalogs is .030 OS but the catalogs list a different ream for them so would guess not quite the same as the pin type .030 OS.
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Old 11-18-2019, 06:10 PM   #25
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Default Re: #1 cylinder not doing it's share

I was interpreting that wrong although it wasn't too clear about the clearance they were mentioning but the .010" makes sense for stem to tappet clearance. It's way too much for stem to guide clearance for sure. A lot of folks think stainless steel is harder then carbon steel. Structurally, it's certainly hard enough but the surface is softer than steel and that's where the galling comes from. I guess with modern computer aided machines, it's cheaper to machine the whole valve but that seems kind of wasteful to me. That was the reason Charles Thompson developed the welding process.

With the aircraft engines, we used stainless stem valves for a while but they had to have the bronze guides due to galling. They went back to steel stems and high chrome steel guides and that works very well with minimal wear.

Flathead V8 engines have had some valve stems gall using the new all stainless valves. I'm not sure why they just don't weld them like they did for 80 years or so with no real problems. That way they could have stainless heads but steel stems. Ford used that type for exhausts and all steel valves for intakes and they worked just fine. Most flathead V8s had cast iron guides and they worked just fine whether two piece or solid depending on stem types. Times have certainly changed.

Last edited by rotorwrench; 11-18-2019 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 11-20-2019, 09:51 PM   #26
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Default Re: #1 cylinder not doing it's share

I took my eight new valves to the machine shop and left them to get .025 ground off the stems, then I rewatched Mike Bender's video on installing valves and he said the norm is to remove .100 when using adjustable lifters. Maybe I should call my machine shop guy back in the morning and tell him to go .100?
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Old 11-20-2019, 09:58 PM   #27
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Default Re: #1 cylinder not doing it's share

I would get one valve fit and then have all the others ground the same amount. Mike is talking about if he rebuilds the engine with new valve seats and valves from his vendor. No telling what you actually need but I sure wouldn't take that much off unless I knew for sure it was right. You can measure from a straight edge down to the top of the lifter and get really close.


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Originally Posted by thom View Post
I took my eight new valves to the machine shop and left them to get .025 ground off the stems, then I rewatched Mike Bender's video on installing valves and he said the norm is to remove .100 when using adjustable lifters. Maybe I should call my machine shop guy back in the morning and tell him to go .100?
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Old 11-21-2019, 04:45 PM   #28
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Default Re: #1 cylinder not doing it's share

rotor- thanks for the link to Glen Chaffin's valve adjustment procedure. I'm gonna try that out over the winter.
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