Overheating and fed up....

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

36 coupe, stock 21 stud, 2 Holley's w/3.5 PV's and 51 jets. Skips water pumps about 10 years ago. Bubba's dizzy 1 year ago. Would run 180 on hot days until 2 years ago. New radiator core and a good vinegar flush and rinse two months ago and I still can't keep it below 200-210 and it boiling over. What else do I need to do? Pull the heads? Small block? Any and all advice considered and appreciated.....Thanks....

[Kahuna]

Hi Mike
1. Check the timing. Retarded timing will cause hot running

2. Rather than vinegar flush, try again using Evaporust. That will
insure removal of all the old rust & give you a clean block

[V8COOPMAN]

Could it be that Gore and DiCaprio really are "globally-warming" us to extremes flittin'-around in their bizjets? DD

[Tinker]

I've always, when the heads are off, taken a long screw driver and/or coat hanger and dug up casting sand out of the water jackets. Amazing how much can be left if the block has never been boiled. Just probe around with the coathanger and flush it out.

You might have an exhaust leak also heating up the coolant. There are a few ways to check and maybe someone else can explain it better then I will.

One way to check is to remove the top radiator hoses with water in the block and look for bubbles.

[Bored&Stroked]

Timing is always worth checking . . . but it seems you had the problem before you replaced the distributor (or rebuilt it).

Have you checked the plugs . . . are they consistent and do you see any sign of 'washing' away the carbon on any of them? If you have a blown head gasket, in many cases some steam or water vapor will get into the cylinder and 'wash' the spark plug.

Have you had the water tested to see if you have compression gasses leaking into the coolant (blown head gasket)? If you warm the engine up and then pull the radiator cap and rev the engine - do you see bubbles or signs of compression leaks?

Are you running thermostats - have you ran it without them? How fast does it heat up and under what driving conditions? Give us a bit more to work with.

[Seth Swoboda]

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I'm going with timing. You may need to recheck the timing.

[Kahuna]

All great info so far

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Mike..Yorba Linda

36 coupe, stock 21 stud, 2 Holley's w/3.5 PV's and 51 jets. Skips water pumps about 10 years ago. Bubba's dizzy 1 year ago. Would run 180 on hot days until 2 years ago. New radiator core and a good vinegar flush and rinse two months ago and I still can't keep it below 200-210 and it boiling over. What else do I need to do? Pull the heads? Small block? Any and all advice considered and appreciated.....Thanks....

Mike, email Skip [email protected] and follow his instructions to
resolve the problem. To many cooks spoil the soup. G.M.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

I did use Evapo rust after the vinegar flush. Left it in for a few days, as I did the vinegar, and thoroughly flushed with water. I'm sure the block is clean. No thermostat's per Skips instructions. New spark plugs and no sign of water in the oil or bubbles in the top tank. It heats up normally I would say. I'll email Skip tomorrow for his recommendations. Thanks for helping, I really want to keep the flathead ......

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

I'm willing to check/change the timing, should I use a vacuum gauge? I would think Bubba set it up correctly......

[FlatheadTed]

fit a shroud ,Ted

[Lawrie]

Ted ,the 33 has no shroud and will stay cool towing in 42deg C, BUT with the fan off the generator, it ran 10 C hotter at hiway speeds,put it back on and it dropped the 10 C.
Clean radiator,clean block,good pumps ,timing close enough,no head gasket leaks,no cracked heads, thats what I have found.and we do a lot of miles towing in Hot weather for long distances.
Lawrie

[Ken/Alabama]

Could it be a leaky head gasket letting hot exhaust gas into the water jacket ??

[FlatheadTed]

Yes I agree Lawrie
He had a new radiater ?? so must now be blocked? [
qUOTE=Lawrie;1487856]Ted ,the 33 has no shroud and will stay cool towing in 42deg C, BUT with the fan off the generator, it ran 10 C hotter at hiway speeds,put it back on and it dropped the 10 C.
Clean radiator,clean block,good pumps ,timing close enough,no head gasket leaks,no cracked heads, thats what I have found.and we do a lot of miles towing in Hot weather for long distances.
Lawrie[/QUOTE]

[Kurt in NJ]

Do both sides get hot the same----remember the engine block is 2 seperate systems, i had a truck with duals and under load one side would overheat, I found that the muffler on that side was too restrictive

I don't like any waterjacket treatment that removes ALL ther rust, sometimes the rust seals a small crack or porosity,

Have you drained it down and looked into the top tank of the radiator to see if some tubes are clogged

are you using plain water---or antifreeze ---plain water makes more rust

I have a "ZOO flush gun", it hooks to the hose and air, connect to lower hose, when block full of water hit it with air ---the air pushes the water out very fast bringing the crap with it----then do the same with the radiatyor, (but at lower air pressure and not as much all at once to prevent rad damage)---this has worked for me

how are the plugs burning---white or black, when you drive does it run proper, and have the same top speed

can you push the car easily by hand----could the brakes be dragging

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

After I talk to Skip, if what he recommends doesn't improve things, I'm pulling the heads for a look see....

[Jack E/NJ]

Ardun heads. 8^) Jack E/NJ

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Both sides get the same temp....hot....It's a new radiator core with bigger tubes than stock. Water and antifreeze and No Rosin. Plugs are a tan color. It sucks trying to diagnose...

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

I wish Jack.....

[aandtman]

If you know somebody that has a gas analizer, check it out, may be running too lean.

[FlatheadTed]

If it is cracked you would be getting water loss .so it doesn't sound like that ,How's your tempter gage ,stock or other wise .are you loosing water out the over flow ,Some radiators will not cool a flat head ,on one of mine even though the radiator is clean the only way I can get it to cool is with a shroud ,Wouldn't be with out it ,Ted

[FlatheadTed]

Shroud

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

The strange thing Ted is it kept at 180* in 90* heat until 2 years ago. Then started overheating. The water does come out the overflow and this is a brand new core better than the one Ford put there....I need to find the cause and fix that instead of adding additional measures that will bring the temp down.....I don't see any symptoms of any cracks...

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Mike..Yorba Linda

The strange thing Ted is it kept at 180* in 90* heat until 2 years ago. Then started overheating. The water does come out the overflow and this is a brand new core better than the one Ford put there....I need to find the cause and fix that instead of adding additional measures that will bring the temp down.....I don't see any symptoms of any cracks...

I would contact Skip [email protected] and let him walk you through
the test procedures to pin point your problem. G.M.

[slowforty]

I have a similar problem , I did not re-torque the head gaskets. and one side is overheating, leaking combustion into the water jackets. It overheats at an idle within ten minutes. So I need to replace a head gasket.

[slowforty]

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I used a laser thermometer to pinpoint the problem. the temperature was acceptable all over the motor except for the drivers side head. it was 30 degrees hotter than the other side. Would start steaming and puking out water within ten minutes of idling.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

I emailed Skip and he responded quickly with some tests I should perform to verify water flow through my engine and we'll go from there. I'll do this within the next 2 weeks and post the results. Thanks guys.....

[v8nut]

Maybe we have been over this before but here goes. Rust in the block will not make it overheat. Cooling takes place in the radiator not in the block. But rust from the block can block radiator tubes and that can be a big problem. If there is rust blocking the radiator tubes Rust911 is a great product to remove it. You can get it on Amazon for about $50 or $60 dollars a gallon. That gallon makes 16 gallons of rust remover. I used it on a 1913 Oakland radiator and was amazed at how well it removed the rust blocking the top of the tubes. I also always use distilled or deionized water in my radiators. Ordinary tap water can have minerals in it that cause teakettle scale to form in the radiator that insulates the tubes on the inside. Vinegar should remove most of that however. Jim in San Jose.

[3bassets]

I had the same problem with a Model A engine that had been rebuilt by a "specialist", I gave up and purchased a "Diamond Block" and did a rebuild with an experienced machinest. My car runs at 160 now on a 90 to 100 degree day using water and water wetter.

Did an autopsy on the old engine, all the water passages were blocked. Over years of use and rust, this was the problem, the engine had also been over bored.

[willowbilly3]

Were you running without thermostats 2 years ago when it was cool? Just curious. I know some flatheads run best that way but over the years, on other engines, I have seen the water circulate too fast to cool without them. Just my opinion, but if everything is right, you shouldn't have to run without them. To me it's akin to putting cardboard in front for winter, a bandaid.
Anyway, you have a lot of good suggestions here. I'd check the timing and look for bubbles first, cause that's easy.

[AnthonyG]

Think I read all, seems to have started heating up immediately after new radiator was installed? The fact that both engine banks overheat at about the same rate kind of indicates problem is in new radiator, might have silver solder or braze media clogging or some other radiator fab issue. If it were in the engine I would expect one side to be hotter faster. Mine always runs hotter on the passenger side of the engine, 185 to 195 vs. 165 to 180 on driver side.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Ran 180 without thermostats and Skips pumps until about 2 years ago. Put new radiator core in 2 months ago. Still overheats. Radiator is not clogged, flushed engine and now runs clean but hot...200-210...and boils over. I'm going to eliminate some causes with some testing and I'll be glad to report back before I install a 283....

[FlatheadTed]

Mike Going by these comments it looking more and more like a cylinder leak ,A shroud has its place put yes your better of finding the cause ,Ted

Originally Posted by Mike..Yorba Linda

The strange thing Ted is it kept at 180* in 90* heat until 2 years ago. Then started overheating. The water does come out the overflow and this is a brand new core better than the one Ford put there....I need to find the cause and fix that instead of adding additional measures that will bring the temp down.....I don't see any symptoms of any cracks...

[37fatfender]

Sell it to me! Problem solved. 😎

[JSeery]

37fatfender beat me to it, I was going to suggest sending that nasty engine to me!

[slowforty]

That is the problem I found with my 40. Combustion was leaking into the coolant.
It is amazing how fast that side of the engine heated up

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Here it is in its stationary glory...

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

There is no evidence of water in the oil so I'm assuming no crack? Is that possible?

[Phil Gillespie]

Think the suggestion was combustion leaking into water spaces possibly via a crack which will not show up as water in the oil maybe. Cooling water can be checked for hydrocarbons associated with combustion leak to water space.
Maybe a compression check also to assist.
That is a very nice looking car and deserves TLC and plenty of use.
Phil NZ

[Tinker]

depends on the crack but no milky oil is always great. I thinking sbc! Time will tell, don't throw the baby out with the bath water.

Flatheads or soooo simple that they are complicated. Have you ever crack it open, head wise?

[GB SISSON]

Going to re-torque my heads tomorrow after work after all this. It's run about a 1/2 hour.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

No, never had the heads off. I'm too busy to do the tests Skip has recommended but I want to try the simple things first to eliminate possible problems. I love the flathead and all its gutless power.....

[1948F-1Pickup]

With the exception of my last 2 years with an 8BA, the majority of my 40 years experience in dealing with engines has been with conventional overhead valve stuff. You can have combustion gasses having a significant effect on the water jacket temperature from a head gasket malfunction and not be able to tell other than with a block tester.
Barring something obvious, like a jacked-up radiator, that's where I'd be looking.

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Going to re-torque my heads tomorrow after work after all this. It's run about a 1/2 hour.

This is very important. More so for those running aluminum heads. Check your head torque values often.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

I think you're right on the combustion gasses. What leads me to this is it came on all of a sudden and my system with the new radiator and flushing I did is very clean. I'll do the test just to make sure....

[Lime1GT]

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Originally Posted by willowbilly3

Were you running without thermostats 2 years ago when it was cool? Just curious. I know some flatheads run best that way but over the years, on other engines, I have seen the water circulate too fast to cool without them. Just my opinion, but if everything is right, you shouldn't have to run without them. To me it's akin to putting cardboard in front for winter, a bandaid.
Anyway, you have a lot of good suggestions here. I'd check the timing and look for bubbles first, cause that's easy.

I agree with willowbilly. 180 thermostats should slow the coolant flow somewhat and allow the coolant to absorb more heat from the engine parts. The engine should run more consistent with less temp gauge fluctuations.

I would also pressure check the radiator cap to make sure it holds it's rated pressure. If it fails, coolant over-heat may occur. Antifreeze strength should be checked for 50/50 mix or -35F. If the strength is too high, heat transfer will be impeded raising engine temp. Water shouldn't be used alone as it has no water pump conditioners and antifreeze acts as a form of water-wetter to draw heat to the coolant.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

We don't need thermostats here in SoCal. It ran great without them and I don't think adding them will make a difference. It's more likely, as suggested by other HAMB'rs, combustion gasses as it overheated all of a sudden, it never did that before so that leads me to believe a head gasket blew or something similar. That makes sense to me. The first test I will do is to see if water flows through each side unimpeded and go from there. My guess is I will pull the heads off to fix it.......I appreciate all who made suggestions and will report my findings. Viva La HAMB!

[JSeery]

Matter of prospective, some of us believe all engines need thermostats. (and others don't, LOL) Many advantages to running an engine at a higher temperature.

[B-O-B]

Mike;
Drain some water from the radiator if you run anti-freeze, if just water don't worry about it. Remove fan belt from water pumps & remove the radiator hoses from the heads. Start engine & look for bubbles in the water.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

JSeery, you're right, it's up to the end user to decide. B-O-B, I will try that, it's a good idea without the pumps pumping and looking in the top tank.....Thanks guys!

[Kurt in NJ]

Originally Posted by B-O-B

Mike;
Drain some water from the radiator if you run anti-freeze, if just water don't worry about it. Remove fan belt from water pumps & remove the radiator hoses from the heads. Start engine & look for bubbles in the water.

This is whai I would do, but I would start by cranking with the ignition off for 5-10 seconds, I doubt that it is both sides with the problem---if one side pushes some water and bubbles start with that side

[19Fordy]

I didn't read all this thread but, are your thermostats opening completely?
Are the radiator hoses collapsing?

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

I didn't read all this thread but, are your thermostats opening completely?
Are the radiator hoses collapsing?

He doesn't run thermostats.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Right, no stats and new hoses.....Ford script for the purists I'm anxious to get started with all your ideas to check. I very much appreciate all who gave suggestions of what to look for/do. Kind of busy with work stuff but should be another week......

[wga]

Mike -- had the same problem, went to a couple of shops and they used the exhaust gas sniffer right at the radiator neck. The readings were over 30PPM. Removed the heads,
surfaced, Best head gaskets, redid the readings twice and it was 0-4 PPM.
There must be a shop in the land of gracious living or over in the Brea area.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Mike..Yorba Linda

Right, no stats and new hoses.....Ford script for the purists I'm anxious to get started with all your ideas to check. I very much appreciate all who gave suggestions of what to look for/do. Kind of busy with work stuff but should be another week......

Pressurized system? Stock radiator?

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

wga, You know the motto and the area! I think a friend who does Mercedes, BMW, and Porsche repair might have one. If the reading is up there, heads will roll.....or be removed....

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Pete, all stock radiator (new) and system....

[flatford8]

Your getting some great suggestions here.... I have nothing to add there..... but dammit, quit your job and work on the car... LOL....I can't wait to hear the results.... Mark

[47COE]

You can get a NAPA kit (BK 7001006) to test for combustion gases in the coolant. It's a quick easy test and cost is under $50.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7001006

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

OK, did some testing.....first checked that water flowed freely through block and that passed, flowed right through. Then did what B-O-B suggested with upper hoses and fan belt off. Saw a burping in the water on the pass side nothing on the driver but driver got 10* hotter and water would overflow the pump flange while pass. side did not. Didn't see any large bubbles on driver side. Any more test suggestions before pulling the heads? Thanks....

[Veeder]

I would suggest re-torqueing the head and if you decide to take a stab at it be sure to back to nut off and record how much torque it took then re-torqueing the nut

[petehoovie]

I'd try using some of this stuff before pulling the heads > https://www.kseal.com/products/k-seal

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

I don't know Pete, that seems kind of like a band aid and I'm looking for a repair after I know what's wrong.....appreciate the tip though......

[harold04kurtis]

Mike, I have a v-8-60 that I run in a vintage kurtis midget race car. Had over heating problems until I added "Water Wetter" a Red Line product to the red. went from 210 down to 180/ 190 you can get it at any parts store

Harold

P/S I'm from Yorba Linda back in the 60's

[harold04kurtis]

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Mike, send a p/m to you don't know where it went I'm new to this posting thing, any way I use Water Wetter(Red Line product) you can get from any parts store.I run it in my v-8-60 Kurtis midget race car temp. came down from 220 to 180

Harold

P.S. I'm from Yorba Linda back in the 60,s

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Thanks Harold....I can try that easy enough to see if it will make a difference. YL has changed quite a bit from the 60's....East of Kellogg is all new development and not as many equestrian properties.....I'm in East Lake....

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

OK.....after much thought, I decided to pull the heads to check gaskets and look for cracks. First, the water pumps are all corroded with something. This mix has been in for two months. It is a mix of A.F/Water/and No-Rosen suggested by Rumble-seat's blog. After cleaning.. It looks like the impeller is being eaten away.... And the last photo is the root of my overheating. Sandy sludge between the back cylinders. How should I get this out without screwing something else up? Appreciate all suggestions.....Having problems getting all photos here...

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Cleaned...

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Eaten away....Skips pumps, 10 years old....

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Sandy sludge.....

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Left side....

[JSeery]

Sandy sludge. Is it core sand? Was the core sand cleaned out of the block at the last rebuild?

[mountstimothy0]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Matter of prospective, some of us believe all engines need thermostats. (and others don't, LOL) Many advantages to running an engine at a higher temperature.

I agree with jseery i had no over heating with a thermostat versus overheating with no thermostat especially in higher climate areas. The thermostat as you probably know slows down water flow and allows the fan to cool down the water in the radiator

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J120A using Tapatalk

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Sandy sludge. Is it core sand? Was the core sand cleaned out of the block at the last rebuild?

I didn't rebuild it. It defiantly is sandy rusty sludge. I'm thinking of pulling it out and do a through cleaning.....

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Originally Posted by mountstimothy0

I agree with jseery i had no over heating with a thermostat versus overheating with no thermostat especially in higher climate areas. The thermostat as you probably know slows down water flow and allows the fan to cool down the water in the radiator

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J120A using Tapatalk

I've never run T stats and it never overheated before. So adding them wouldn't make a difference.

[philipswanson]

I suspect that new radiator. You say larger tubes, not necessarily good. How many rows? You need 4. Aluminum or brass? Brass cools better. And clean out that block! Hot just in town or on the road too?

Phil Swanson

[Init1]

Maybe it just needs burping. Jack up the front, remove the cap and run it awhile. The trapped air will bubble out if there is any.
Also, run thermostats.

[weemark]

mike that's not so good to hear about your issues. ive never seen that crud on a water pump like that before. I wouldn't think the casting sand is your issue, I would say it was the crud on the water pumps which ha caused them to move/pump only a small amount of water. sand has been there now for 81 years and never caused any issues previously, now you know about it, its best to get it out though. I would think you will need to get the block out and spend a bit of time with a screwdriver loosening it as you wash it out.

[JSeery]

The sand had to come from somewhere! It is either getting added to the cooling system somehow or something is causing the original casting to come loose and move about. Almost everyone that takes to time to clean the blocks out (they have a ton of sand and wire in there!) claim much fewer cooling issues. The only other thing I can think of is something is going on with the coolant that just appears to be "sandy". But if it is truly fine sand, casting sand could sure be the source.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Originally Posted by philipswanson

I suspect that new radiator. You say larger tubes, not necessarily good. How many rows? You need 4. Aluminum or brass? Brass cools better. And clean out that block! Hot just in town or on the road too?

Phil Swanson

Phil, It overheated with the old radiator also. It's brass similar to the old style. I plan on cleaning out the block. I did flush out the block before the new radiator went in as well as you can. It gets hot where ever I drive it....

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Originally Posted by weemark

mike that's not so good to hear about your issues. ive never seen that crud on a water pump like that before. I wouldn't think the casting sand is your issue, I would say it was the crud on the water pumps which ha caused them to move/pump only a small amount of water. sand has been there now for 81 years and never caused any issues previously, now you know about it, its best to get it out though. I would think you will need to get the block out and spend a bit of time with a screwdriver loosening it as you wash it out.

Hi Mark, How are things? The No Rosin is supposed to prevent corrosion on pumping systems. The sand is now like a sandy rusty mud. Maybe I caused it when I ran Vinegar through the system? I'll have to get it out though. I'm going to try and flush it out but if not successful, I'll just pull the engine. Hope all is well....

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Originally Posted by JSeery

The sand had to come from somewhere! It is either getting added to the cooling system somehow or something is causing the original casting to come loose and move about. Almost everyone that takes to time to clean the blocks out (they have a ton of sand and wire in there!) claim much fewer cooling issues. The only other thing I can think of is something is going on with the coolant that just appears to be "sandy". But if it is truly fine sand, casting sand could sure be the source.

J, I think the original sand is coming loose. It's like beach sand which I think is like casting sand. I'm going to do what ever it takes to get it out so I can enjoy driving the old car without worrying every time I'm stopped at a red light...

[petehoovie]

Several years ago when I had to replaced the heads on my '34 I decided to clean out the block as best as I could without removing the engine from the car. With the heads off I scraped the water passages as best as I could with various lengths and thickness of stiff wire like coat hangers. I used various flat tipped screwdrivers as well. I then used extreme high pressure compressed air to blow out every orifice in the block that I could see. I was amazed at the amount of sand and debris that was blown out of that block! After the job was done and having the car out on the road for several months I found that I had to add thermostats for the first time ever because the running temperatures would never get over 140 degrees. I installed a pair of 160 stats and the car has never run better....

[FrankWest]

Wow! What crap. You will have to keep your eye on that in the future.. That may not be the last you will see of that. May have to be run and cleaned out several more times.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

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Originally Posted by petehoovie

Several years ago when I had to replaced the heads on my '34 I decided to clean out the block as best as I could without removing the engine from the car. With the heads off I scraped the water passages as best as I could with various lengths and thickness of stiff wire like coat hangers. I used various flat tipped screwdrivers as well. I then used extreme high pressure compressed air to blow out every orifice in the block that I could see. I was amazed at the amount of sand and debris that was blown out of that block! After the job was done and having the car out on the road for several months I found that I had to add thermostats for the first time ever because the running temperatures would never get over 140 degrees. I installed a pair of 160 stats and the car has never run better....

That's what I'm hoping for Pete! I'm going to let it dry up a bit and use a shop vac. with small tubing connected to the nozzle and then give it a good rinsing.....

[JSeery]

You can also blow out some of it with an extended air nozzle. BUT be aware it will blow a cloud of junk everywhere!!!

[wga]

Mike, I use both the shop vac method with a rubber hose, and then used a pressure washer with out the sprayer tip on it. Just used the sprayer tube and was able to get a ton of crudola out of it. Also with the heads on, and no thermostat, used a high pressure down the housing and into the block in an effort to wash it out as well.
If you need radiator work, Rick's out in Azusa does excellent work, and knows old Fords.
693 E Arrow Hwy
Azusa, CA 91702
Do you go to the cruise in at Dukes on Wednesday's

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Originally Posted by wga

Mike, I use both the shop vac method with a rubber hose, and then used a pressure washer with out the sprayer tip on it. Just used the sprayer tube and was able to get a ton of crudola out of it. Also with the heads on, and no thermostat, used a high pressure down the housing and into the block in an effort to wash it out as well.
If you need radiator work, Rick's out in Azusa does excellent work, and knows old Fords.
693 E Arrow Hwy
Azusa, CA 91702
Do you go to the cruise in at Dukes on Wednesday's

That's my plan. I had the radiator done at Tom's in Orange. He did a very nice job. I haven't been to Dukes but live 5 minutes away....

[Sal]

I just had the heads off a 59AB engine. Lots of rust in the passages, I used a long 1/4" aluminum pipe on the end of an air nozzle to blow out all the crud. It took some time to get it all. The engine runs a lot cooler now.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Originally Posted by Sal

I just had the heads off a 59AB engine. Lots of rust in the passages, I used a long 1/4" aluminum pipe on the end of an air nozzle to blow out all the crud. It took some time to get it all. The engine runs a lot cooler now.

I think mine will do the same Sal......

[FlatheadTed]

Use a stocking on first start up to catch any from going into the Radiator. Ted

[bluardun]

Mike, it seems you have done all the things to make it run cool. I don't know how to sure; but can't you do a "LEAK DOWN TEST". I believe by brazing/welding a shadrer valve onto a spark plug, so you can blow air into a cylinder. Fill one cylinder at a time to about 90#. Then watch it if holds pressure for a length of time. This hopefully would show which cylinder has a bad head gasket, crack, ??? Maybe other Fordbarners can share info how to do a leakdown test. Any how, I share your frustration. Hard to truly enjoy your car/hobby with it not running correct. Good luck.

[JSeery]

Let him clean the block out first! A block full of sand is not going to cool well.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Thanks guys for all the suggestions and advice. I appreciate all comments. I 'll post photos of what comes out. I'm hoping this is the problem. I'm letting it dry out and will probably get to it in a week or so......wish me luck!

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

OK....got this out of one side....

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Found this round cloth also...weird..

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

And this crack.... between intake seat and sleeve...is that a problem?

[tubman]

Wow! That's a lot of crap; getting it out of there should help a lot. About the crack, I'm not so sanguine. I used to run 'em like that in the '60's with no problems, but these days? Good luck to you!

I ran a '52 Ford for several years that had cracks like that in 7 of the 16 valve pockets without a problem. I think I was really lucky.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Mike..Yorba Linda

OK....got this out of one side....

I've seen a lot more than that come out!

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by JSeery

I've seen a lot more than that come out!

Yeah, I was going to say the same thing....I had at least twice that amount come out of one side of the engine in my '34....

[Talkwrench]

This is only a small amount I scraped out of my block, I did it twice. Using compressed air to move the smaller stuff everything around the work area turned brown...

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Yeah, I was going to say the same thing....I had at least twice that amount come out of one side of the engine in my '34....

Pete, was yours overheating also?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Mike..Yorba Linda

Pete, was yours overheating also?

Yes, but no longer. See my previous post....

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

OK, wanted to follow up with the results of my work. New head gaskets, added water, antifreeze, water wetter and Barrs copper block seal for that small crack. Also, re-torque after warm up twice. Temps get to 185-190. After running it on the freeway and I shut it off, it crept up to 200+ while not running, that seems strange....Now I'm going to install thermostats and see if they help/slow the fluid down even though I never ran them before. I appreciate ALL suggestions given. Thanks to all that took the time to read and respond. I will post the results soon but now I'm into my 46 woodie that overheats....That's a post for another time. It's always something......

[Seth Swoboda]

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Make sure the inside of your radiator is clean, VERY clean. Also, it is normal for the temps to climb when you shut the engine off, heat soak.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Originally Posted by Seth Swoboda

Make sure the inside of your radiator is clean, VERY clean. Also, it is normal for the temps to climb when you shut the engine off, heat soak.

Seth, new radiator core...The internals are as clean as you could get them.....

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by Mike..Yorba Linda

Seth, new radiator core...The internals are as clean as you could get them.....

Excellent!

[john in illinois]

Mike ,there was a recent thread about deposits in an engine that looked just like your water pump. The conclusion was that the combination of Water Wetter and NO Rosion caused the deposits. Apparently you can not mix some of these chemicals.

Glad you solved your problem.

John

[flatjack9]

The rising temperature after shut down is perfectly normal.

[corvette8n]

Does shake n bake get all the sand out of a block?

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

Mike ,there was a recent thread about deposits in an engine that looked just like your water pump. The conclusion was that the combination of Water Wetter and NO Rosion caused the deposits. Apparently you can not mix some of these chemicals.

Glad you solved your problem.

John

Yea John, I never used the No-Rosen before so I was convinced that had something to do with it. I won't use it again.....

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by corvette8n

Does shake n bake get all the sand out of a block?

I just had a flathead engine baked, shot peened and shaked. I dug around in the block and blew air through it and did not get any left over debris out of it. I'll flush with water to triple check before it goes on a radiator.

[Kerk]

Shake& Bake. Walt in Me did an engine for me and he had it cleaned up there somewhere. It looked great before he got into the rebuild. I was really pleased With what I saw. I would take any other engine to that place. and I should have gotten the name and phone. kerk

[tgarner317]

Originally Posted by Mike..Yorba Linda

OK, wanted to follow up with the results of my work. New head gaskets, added water, antifreeze, water wetter and Barrs copper block seal for that small crack. Also, re-torque after warm up twice. Temps get to 185-190. After running it on the freeway and I shut it off, it crept up to 200+ while not running, that seems strange....Now I'm going to install thermostats and see if they help/slow the fluid down even though I never ran them before. I appreciate ALL suggestions given. Thanks to all that took the time to read and respond. I will post the results soon but now I'm into my 46 woodie that overheats....That's a post for another time. It's always something......

Hi Mike, any update? I’m dealing with exactly the same issues with my 36.. Leaking pass side head gasket into cylinders 2 and 3. Oh, and blew the radiator last year.. Just now getting around to putting everything back together. Cleaning out the rusty, sandy goo inside my block (in the car) with a clothes hanger currently.. Thanks for the ideas in your post.

[big job]

Hey Kurt, I thought I was the only one in the world with a Zoo flush gun. they rule!

[ford nut]

Originally Posted by Mike..Yorba Linda

That's my plan. I had the radiator done at Tom's in Orange. He did a very nice job.....

I have my 36 radiator at toms right now. I hope he does a good job. I almost went to hoffmans down a couple of blocks. I still waiting to hear back, he's had it about a month.