29 steering wheel paired with 30/1 column

[kundun]

I've got a 29 Phaeton with a 7 tooth steering that was modified beyond any hope.
That's why I took advice and organised a 2 tooth steering assembly to rebuild instead of investing into the 7 tooth.

Unknown as I was, did I end up with a 30/1 column, I just wanted to order all the spare parts for the rebuilt and found out that I had to go with the 30/1 steering wheel that will rather look out of place on my Phaeton.

My question now, if I get the 29 keyed steering wheel, the appropriate horn rod and the 43" steering shaft, will I be able to alter the column to fit the 29 shaft, rod and wheel?

I thought of shortening my 30/1 column shaft just above the upper race by 1". This will allow me to use the correct horn rod. Further adapting the top part of the column (picture) by cutting the metal off that comes towards the steering wheel.

Is my assumption correct, that the 43" shaft will fit the 30/1 column if the later is shortened and adapted?

Thanks for the help and advise.

[Joe K]

Actually I see no reason you can't use the 28-29 keyed wheel against a 30-31 column. You can find the keyed wheel sometimes on Ebay. You may have to use the magnify feature to discount the 28-29 spline wheels as the sellers are not always tellers.

Or you can check out what's on the market. I think Snyder had a keyed wheel imperfect in their "damaged goods" section. Would be fine for a driver I'm sure.

And it is possible to use a 30-31 wheel if yours is a truck. Between October 29 and June 1930, the square cab and roadster pickups could have EITHER a 28-29 column or a 30-31 column. And the complete setup is always useful as trading material later for what you really want.

I've often thought about converting a couple of my later gemmer 30-31 columns to the 28-29 style by replacing the top quadrant/sector. I don't think it's being reproduced currently, although I've seen it a few years ago though.

Give it time - I'm patient. Meanwhile I found a perfectly good 28-29 2 tooth column complete with a large dent in it for $5 at the Amherst, NH antique auto flea market. I pounded out the dent using a piece of 1" pipe on the inside as an anvil stake, and faired in the outside with bondo. It looks pretty good now.

Patience, Grasshopper. To a Model A Person, all things come to those that wait. Before long you'll have TOO many columns. I think I peaked out at five.

Joe K

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Actually, if I am reading this correctly, you are wanting to use the 7 tooth shaft in a 2 tooth column. If that is the case, they are different, The 7 tooth shaft is made differently to accept bushings in lieu of bearings, and the worm gears won't interchange.

[kundun]

@Brent

No, the 7 tooth assembly is beyond repair..

I'd like to use the 30/1 column that I bought (from the picture above) together with a 29 steering wheel, the form that was used on the Phaeton.

(except somebody is offering me the correct 29 column for a good price and mine goes onto scrap metal...)

As far as I understand it correctly, the keyed steering wheel (Synder: A-3600-BK) allows only one type of horn rod. As the horn rod can not easily be changed in length, I will have to use the 43" steering shaft otherwise the horn rod is too short.
The 43" steering shaft however, is too short for the 30/1 column which means I would have to shorten the column (it seems easily possible just above the upper race).

Does that clarify my problem?

@Joe
sadly the marked in Europe is rather small... which makes finding parts almost impossible.
But thanks, the snyder tip was a good one

[Joe K]

Say NO to scrap metal.

Back in my earlier day (not so long ago) I bought a segment of Model A roadster frame which contains my present engine. Along with this came a segment of 30-31 cowl which I had NO use for as my truck is a 28-29.

It went to the dump. Not even a scrappie. Dump. It's probably scrunched by a bulldozer and buried in the landfill to this day.

I've been kicking myself ever since - and saving EVERYTHING since - good or bad.

Somebody will find a use for it.

Joe K

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Originally Posted by Joe K

Say NO to scrap metal.

Back in my earlier day (not so long ago) I bought a segment of Model A roadster frame which contains my present engine. Along with this came a segment of 30-31 cowl which I had NO use for as my truck is a 28-29.

It went to the dump. Not even a scrappie. Dump. It's probably scrunched by a bulldozer and buried in the landfill to this day.

I've been kicking myself ever since - and saving EVERYTHING since - good or bad.

Somebody will find a use for it.

Joe K

In the 80's I saw a business adding to there bank by filling it in with 55, 56 and 57 Chevrolets. What a waste of good cars and parts. A few years ago a steam engine was pulled from a river bottom, where it spent about 50 years sunk in the mud. It's a beautiful running steam engine today.

[Rowdy]

If you are being offered a 29 2 tooth that is the way to go. As far as putting a 30-31 column with a 29 style wheel I do not see a problem although the quadrant is different. A 30-31 box with a cut off sterring tube modified to fit the 2 tooth box is another option. Rod

[Joe K]

It may be possible to cut the top and quadrant off the top of that 7 tooth column and weld it onto the 30-31 Gemmer column. Your big question is how tight do you want the springs on the bottom of the spark rods (vertical distance between sector and spring landing points.)

Joe K

[Del in NE Ohio]

There are only two lengths of '28-'29 Light switch rods. (repo or original). If you are determined to use a 28-29 keyed wheel on your '30-31 2 tooth tube, you will end up needing a '28-29 style light switch rod in a length that doesn't exist.