LB engine cam gear on crank

[Zimmco]

Need some advice. Is it possible to pull the crank cam gear with the crank in the engine? I have the pan and front cover off, but there's very little space around the gear to get a puller on it. Any ideas?
Al

[Ol' Ron]

Why change the crank gear?? It's not necessary when changing the cam gear, unless something is definitely wrong with it (Broken teeth excessive ware)

[Zimmco]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Why change the crank gear?? It's not necessary when changing the cam gear, unless something is definitely wrong with it (Broken teeth excessive ware)

Ol' Ron, it has two chipped teeth in a row on the drive side of each tooth. I guess about 70% of the contact area is left on the worst one. Whoever rebuilt the engine years ago must have chipped it and either decided it's OK, or didn't notice it. The engine was only test started when it was rebuilt, so the fiber cam gear looks new and show no flaws.

I think it will be OK, but I'd like to change it if it can be done without pulling the crank.

Al

[jimTN]

Whoa, fiber gears are not good! Those gears made within the last 20 years seem to strip and come apart rapidly. If you have to pull the metal gear, drive some thin chisels behind it to move it out far enough to get a puller on it.

[Kahuna]

If it's a bolt on gear, it will come right off.
Easy job. Replace with an aluminum gear

Oops, didn't notice the LB part

[JM 35 Sedan]

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You might get that crank gear off using a good gear puller and some light heat on the gear to expand it some. The gear has a keyway for the key that's mounted in the crank. Even with the key, there is probably some press fit designed in the fitup. There is a way to get the camshaft press on timing gear off the cam hub and another gear (I prefer aluminum) back in place without removing the cam from the block. I have already explained to you how I have done this.

[rotorwrench]

KR Wilson made a special puller for the crank mounted cam drive gear and it could be used with the crank in place if I remember correctly.

[JWL]

I have only done one while crank was in the engine. I drilled and tapped 2 holes about 180 degrees apart so I could pull it off with a standard puller.

[Zimmco]

Thanks for all the input so far. I finally got a photo of the damaged gear. Any opinions on whether to go with it as is or replace it are welcome.

Al

[fordscript]

It will probably be ok as it is.....but I would probably replace it for peace of mind. As you already have the pan off, just remove the front main cap and use a puller (or whatever is needed) to pull/drive it off.

[4tford]

You could either change it or take a dremel with a grind stone tip and relieve the sharp edges.

[Ol' Ron]

I had an engine on the dyno for brake in and it had a knock I couldn't find. Turned out to be a chipped crank gear. I used a dremmel to smoth out the area and a magnet to collect the CI dust. All my engines had full flow oil filters. Check with the machineshops in your area for a puller.

[Zimmco]

Originally Posted by fordscript

It will probably be ok as it is.....but I would probably replace it for peace of mind. As you already have the pan off, just remove the front main cap and use a puller (or whatever is needed) to pull/drive it off.

I tried fordscipt's technique and it came off without too much effort. The puller needs narrow arms, and just catches the edge of the crankshaft snout. The photo shows it part way off. My fall-back attempt would have been JWL's drill and tap suggestion.

Thanks to all for your replies and help.

Al