The Ford Barn

Gufshoz · 11-04-2015, 11:16 AM

I have a 1930 coupe that has had the wiring for the lights, horn, and add-on bumper mounted turn signals ran through the firewall. This modification was done in the 60's to avoid having to replace the light and horn rod. The car was a daily driver for my high school days in the late 60's and ran reasonably well until I somehow screwed things up. Recently, I had to repair the radiator, so I ran new wiring to the headlights, installed a new ignition switch, ammeter and wiring harness for the switch and ammeter. Since that time the car only runs off the charged battery. I had the alternator and the battery checked and they're both in great condition. What should I be looking for next? I know that there must be a short somewhere, but I've traced all the wiring and can't find it. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Gufshoz · 11-04-2015, 11:45 AM

PS Clarification: All electrical systems operate. The battery holds its charge except when the motor is running.
Thanks

Charlie Stephens · 11-04-2015, 12:06 PM

What does the ammeter say when the motor is not running and you turn on the head lights? It should say about -10 amps for stock lights and more for sealed beams. You said you had the alternator checked, what does the voltage read when the car is running?

Charlie Stephens

burner31 · 11-04-2015, 12:25 PM

Have you checked your cutout wiring?
Check/clean all grounds?

Charlie Stephens · 11-04-2015, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burner31

Have you checked your cutout wiring?
Check/clean all grounds?

Do alternators have cutouts? I must have missed something.

Charlie Stephens

burner31 · 11-04-2015, 12:53 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Missed that "alternator" part...Opps
But checking all the grounds still stands.

Tom Wesenberg · 11-04-2015, 02:57 PM

Check the alternator output stud for voltage with the engine off, then with the engine running. Be sure to kick up the speed so the alternator kicks in. You should go from about 6.3 volts with the engine off, to about 7 volts with the engine running.

If the voltage doesn't increase when running, then the alternator is bad. If it increases, then check both terminal box wing nuts for the same 7+ volts, then move down to the starter switch stud and check it for 7+ volts.

Let us know what each of these readings are.

Gufshoz · 11-04-2015, 03:43 PM

Ta-da,
Fixed. At least the first 5 mile test drive was ok. Did I mention that I had to replace most of the wiring because the first time I got it running, after putting the repaired radiator back, it caught on fire. Melted most of the terminal box wires. I couldn't understand how the motor could run if the wiring wasn't right. I just removed all the wires from the terminal box and reconnected them (today). I had the yellow wire from the starter connected to the wrong terminal. I had been using a composite of several different wiring diagrams. I hope that it's true that we learn more from our mistakes.

Jwilli · 11-04-2015, 06:50 PM

We do learn from our mistakes. It takes a real man to admit that he made a mistake. Enjoy your car.

Flathead · 11-05-2015, 12:18 AM

Anybody who can say they never ever made a mistake is either lying or has never done anything.

We all make mistakes from time to time.

11-04-2015, 11:16 AM	#1
Gufshoz Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Gulf Shores, AL Posts: 78	Self inflicted electrical woes. I have a 1930 coupe that has had the wiring for the lights, horn, and add-on bumper mounted turn signals ran through the firewall. This modification was done in the 60's to avoid having to replace the light and horn rod. The car was a daily driver for my high school days in the late 60's and ran reasonably well until I somehow screwed things up. Recently, I had to repair the radiator, so I ran new wiring to the headlights, installed a new ignition switch, ammeter and wiring harness for the switch and ammeter. Since that time the car only runs off the charged battery. I had the alternator and the battery checked and they're both in great condition. What should I be looking for next? I know that there must be a short somewhere, but I've traced all the wiring and can't find it. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

11-04-2015, 11:45 AM	#2
Gufshoz Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Gulf Shores, AL Posts: 78	Re: Self inflicted electrical woes. PS Clarification: All electrical systems operate. The battery holds its charge except when the motor is running. Thanks

11-04-2015, 12:06 PM	#3
Charlie Stephens Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 7,032	Re: Self inflicted electrical woes. What does the ammeter say when the motor is not running and you turn on the head lights? It should say about -10 amps for stock lights and more for sealed beams. You said you had the alternator checked, what does the voltage read when the car is running? Charlie Stephens

11-04-2015, 12:25 PM	#4
burner31 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Shawnee, Ok Posts: 3,471	Re: Self inflicted electrical woes. Have you checked your cutout wiring? Check/clean all grounds? __________________ Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B

11-04-2015, 12:53 PM	#6
burner31 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Shawnee, Ok Posts: 3,471	Re: Self inflicted electrical woes. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Missed that "alternator" part...Opps But checking all the grounds still stands. __________________ Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B

11-04-2015, 02:57 PM	#7
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Self inflicted electrical woes. Check the alternator output stud for voltage with the engine off, then with the engine running. Be sure to kick up the speed so the alternator kicks in. You should go from about 6.3 volts with the engine off, to about 7 volts with the engine running. If the voltage doesn't increase when running, then the alternator is bad. If it increases, then check both terminal box wing nuts for the same 7+ volts, then move down to the starter switch stud and check it for 7+ volts. Let us know what each of these readings are.

11-04-2015, 03:43 PM	#8
Gufshoz Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Gulf Shores, AL Posts: 78	Re: Self inflicted electrical woes. Ta-da, Fixed. At least the first 5 mile test drive was ok. Did I mention that I had to replace most of the wiring because the first time I got it running, after putting the repaired radiator back, it caught on fire. Melted most of the terminal box wires. I couldn't understand how the motor could run if the wiring wasn't right. I just removed all the wires from the terminal box and reconnected them (today). I had the yellow wire from the starter connected to the wrong terminal. I had been using a composite of several different wiring diagrams. I hope that it's true that we learn more from our mistakes.

11-04-2015, 06:50 PM	#9
Jwilli Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Kennesaw, Ga Posts: 511	Re: Self inflicted electrical woes. We do learn from our mistakes. It takes a real man to admit that he made a mistake. Enjoy your car.

11-05-2015, 12:18 AM	#10
Flathead Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern Maine Posts: 1,498	Re: Self inflicted electrical woes. Anybody who can say they never ever made a mistake is either lying or has never done anything. We all make mistakes from time to time.