Noise when clutch is engaged?

[Tinker]

Hello.

I picked up a 29' coupe that I am starting to clean up and fix issues.

My question is when I engage the clutch it makes a chirping noise. I was suspecting it's the throwout bearing but I took off the inspection plate and all the parts move as expected. The throwout bearing looks new and spins smoothly. The clutch operates fine when driving except for the noise when clutch is engaged.

I will try and get some video posted.

I plan on pulling the rearend to replace a broken shackle and would like to pull the transmission then.

I've been working on flathead v8's for a little while and have a decent grasp of them but this is my first A. I have picked up some great books but I wanted to get as much info as I can, so when I pull everything apart it will go smoothly.

Thanks for listening (reading).

[fordfixer]

put some grease in the throw-out bearing, there is a fitting in there for this purpose.

[J Franklin]

I always like to dismantle things but pulling the rear-end to change a shackle seem a little extreme, but if you want to open the transmission thats a better reason.

[Tinker]

Greased the throwout a couple nights ago. I started it last night and clutch was doing it. I will have to drive it around a bit to see if it will help. I'm hoping that is all it is.

frankin, I know it seems like overkill but it'll just be easier to work on everything without having to crouch under the car. It's just a matter of unbolting brakes, clam, speedo, and suspension/spring. I have done shackles before on my 38 and it can be a bear to get the steel bushings out. Plus I can go over everything with it out much easier.

I also thought I could get the transmission in the same teardown.

[Tinker]

Anyone else want to comment? Could it be some other problem?

[Tom from Drippin']

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If you are new to As, be aware that removing the rear spring can be a dangerous affair. The old, rusty center bolt may give way at any moment.
Use caution and ask questions here.

[Tinker]

Thanks Tom I will do. I have a rear spring spreader to remove the shackles but I didn't give thought to the center bolt. Thank you.

So here is the video. Hope this works.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnR7Iroi7ts

[Tom from Drippin']

If you leave the spring attached to the frame via the U bolts you should not have a problem.
Be safe.

[Tinker]

Since we are on the subject. What is the best procedure to remove the spring?

[700rpm]

"It's just a matter of unbolting brakes, clam, speedo, and suspension/spring."

Tinker, that made me laugh out loud. Those clams are the darndest things to work on with a Model A!

[Tinker]

Ha ha!!! I'm glad I made someone laugh. I have my moments.

I call it a clam but maybe it's called something else. It's the shield that goes around the torque tube connecting to the transmission.

[Mitch//pa]

its all nuts and bolts right

[Tom from Drippin']

[

Originally Posted by Tinker

Since we are on the subject. What is the best procedure to remove the spring?

Unless you are going to re-hab the the rear spring, leave it bolted to the frame. It's easier to pull the rear end & torque tube w/o the spring (Don't have to lift frame as high).
If you decide to pull the spring....I would use your spreadder to remove it from the rear axle. pull the rear end. Wrap both sides of the spring with heavy chain (not swing-set chain) and remove the U bolts. Carefull, the spring is heavy don't drop it on the floor, as the center bolt may be ready to go.
If you decide to re-hab the spring, then (still wrapped with chain) carefully undo the center bolt.

[Tinker]

Thanks Tom. The rear spring clamps where loose when I received the vehicle (don't get me started) and I had already unbolted them with no issues and rebolted after getting things level. I must have a angel over my shoulder becuase everthing went okay. As mentioned, I have removed the front and rear springs on my 38' pu so I have respect for steel under pressure, but thank you tom for reminding me.

Any thoughts on the video link I posted?

[billwill]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Hello.

I picked up a 29' coupe that I am starting to clean up and fix issues.

My question is when I engage the clutch it makes a chirping noise. I was suspecting it's the throwout bearing but I took off the inspection plate and all the parts move as expected. The throwout bearing looks new and spins smoothly. The clutch operates fine when driving except for the noise when clutch is engaged.

I will try and get some video posted.

I plan on pulling the rearend to replace a broken shackle and would like to pull the transmission then.

I've been working on flathead v8's for a little while and have a decent grasp of them but this is my first A. I have picked up some great books but I wanted to get as much info as I can, so when I pull everything apart it will go smoothly.

Thanks for listening (reading).

the greaseis tired in the t o bearing.

[PC/SR]

When I want to rehab the rear spring, I remove the center bolt and the two side clamps with the springs still in the cross member and the U bolts still tight. The car weight, Xmember slot and U bolts hold things in place. Then loosen or remove the U bolts. Car weight and Xmember slot still holds the spring. Then, with the lifting device (coffin jack or whatever) providing some lift to remove some weight on the shackles, spread the spring, remove the shackles. At this point, the main leaf is the only one under tension. Remove spring spreader. Spring is now dissambled. Lift the car a bit more if necessary. Springs will fall out. Keeping the springs in the Xmember groove and using the car weight to control release of tension is a pretty safe way to do it. Keeps the leaves in place and under control if something slips or breaks.

[Tinker]

Okay I just took it out for a 20 minute spin and it's starting to quiet down. Little more grease and some more driving should do the trick. Thanks for everyones help. I was hoping that was what it was but I didn't want to believe it it was that simple.

Since I won't be removing the transmission I'll leave the rearend in and just replace shackles and move on to other fixes. Good information here! Thank you.

[V4F]

on the clutch noise ..... i had a little chirp like sound from my clutch . it was a broken spring (clutch disc spring) that had wedged itself & would rub now & then ...............
use alot of caution on the rear spring . you could lose a head . one heck of alot of pressure there . the front is ez , but the rear can kill ................ steve

[Tinker]

Adjusted the point gap tonight, big improvement.

Thinking about it some more while working, I,ll probably have to pull it and fix it right. I can't drive it without thinking about it. I do love driving it though, so I might procrastinate a little! Down here in the south, now would be the time to fix it and enjoy it this winter.

You guys have put the fear of kinetic energy in me, but I think it needs to be done.

[Kurt in NJ]

If the chirp starts just as the clutch starts to engage it is probably the pilot bearing squaking, if the chirp happens after the clutch is engaged and just as you take your foot off the pedal I would look toward the throughout bearing as the cause

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

If the chirp starts just as the clutch starts to engage it is probably the pilot bearing squaking, if the chirp happens after the clutch is engaged and just as you take your foot off the pedal I would look toward the throughout bearing as the cause

I agree;

I am thinking more along the line of a dry Pilot Bearing. If you get the trans out, be sure to look at the Pilot Bearing along with the T.O. Bearing.

Chris.

[zzlegend]

Tinker, mine sat fro a while before i bought it and when i finally got it going it made a loud whining type noise from the clutch area. I greased the throwout bearing with a few squirts and took it out and drove it and it went away. Been about 4 months now and nice and quiet.

[Kurt in NJ]

When the clutch is egaged the pilot bearing is rotating at the same speeds as the flywheel and the trans input shaft. When the clutch is disengaged (pedal pushed down) the bearing turns at the speed differential of the flywheel and the trans input shaft ---but there is not much load on the bearing, as soon as the clutch starts to engage there is a load applyd to the bearing because the clutch will always start engagement in 1 place on the disc first ---that is when a sticky dry bearing will be forced to turn ---perhaps when there is no load the input shaft spins in the bore of the bearing, then as the load of engagement is added the balls of the bearing are forced to spin creating the chirp of protest.

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Wouldn't the pilot bearing be making the noise all the time and not just when the clutch is engaged?

The Pilot Bearing only rotates when the engine and input shaft of the transmission are turning at different speeds (such as at Idle or while changing gears). When the clutch is out the engine and transmission input shaft (hopefully) are turning at the same speed and the Pilot Bearing is not rotating.

The Pilot Bearing can only make noise when the clutch pedal is down.

Chris

[Tinker]

Geez... yes that makes total sense. I am leaning towards the pilot bearing being the squeaky wheel. I can push in the clutch, a little, and spin the throwout nothing. When I push it in all the was then it starts to make the noise.

[Tinker]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Greased the throwout and ran it around a few times. Noise has subsided. I think, as mentioned, has just sat for a while and needed to be driven.

[1931 flamingo]

Kurt, as I was going thru the posts I thought of the pilot brg also, U beat me to it.
Paul in CT

[Tinker]

I agree Paul. pilot bearing. Greasing the throwout and driving it has stopped the noise though. I'll keep my eye on it, or ears I guess.