Light switch diagram

[sunshine]

DOES ANYONE HAVE A PICTURE OR DIAGRAM OF A 39 OR EARLY LIGHT SWITCH @ THE BOTTOM OF THE STEERING COLUMN , IT IS NOT IN THE GREEN BIBLE thanks SUNSHINE

[adileo]

I have a 39 but no switch at bottom of steering col. Do you mean the dash dimmer switch?

[wisbangman]

There is a light switch at the end of your steering columns. It is held on by a hard wire bale. Someone will post a photo, sorry I can not.

[adileo]

What's it turn on?

[40cpe]

Actually the light switch is on the opposite end of the steering gear box from the column.

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by adileo

What's it turn on?

It's the stock '39 headlight switch. It is actuated via twisting the long rod that runs down the length of the column as seen in first pic. Second pic shows bottom of steering box and the bail that holds the light switch to the steering box. DD

[Kahuna]

I can't see the pics, DD
Am I doing something wrong?

[sunshine]

I know what the switcrh does . I just want to know if I have put together correctly ,ITWORKS ,BUT I HAVE A SHORT SOMEWHERE. ADILIO YOU DONT KNOW WHAT THE KNOB IN THE MIDDLE OF YOUR STEERING WHEEL DOES you must have a modified car SUNSHINE

[sunshine]

I know what the switch does , I just want to know if I have everything put together correctly .I have it working but I have a short somewhere . D.D.thank you for pictures,but they dont show the actual switch. adilio you must have a modified car if you dont have this switch SUNSHINE

[JSeery]

These are NOT 39 Ford light switch parts, but all of the early Ford light switches are similar in construction. If I remember correctly you were having a problem with power remaining on when the switch was in the off position. I would start by checking of a short between any of the connections on the plate that the wires connect to. Then I would check to assure that the contact plate than moves with the wheel switch to the correct positions including the off position.

The 39 light switch is wired such that the high beam/low beam is selected by a separate floor foot operated switch.

[adileo]

I have a stock banjo with headlight switch in steering wheel. What threw me was you first post said bottom of steering column and no mention of headlights.

All good coop & seery explained it well

[Terry,OH]

I believe the wiring diagram above and below is what you need. The most often problem with the switch wiring is having one of the wires on the switch move and touch another or the cover.

[sunshine]

Thanks Jseery for the pictures andTerry OH for the wire diagram , but my problem is FUSE 30 AMP getting very hot and blowing when hd. lights are turned on NEW WIRE HARNESS , NEW SWITCH AND 6V SEALED BEAMS. THANKS SUNSHINE

[Terry,OH]

I believe that "Fuse" should be 20.A not 30. The fuse should be instantaneous and not "Slow-Blow" or time delay. Is the fuse blowing with the lights in the "off" position or just when "on"?? is the switch for the pillar lights on or off?
I suggest turning the lights off. replace the fuse with a 20. Amp. then test the pillar lights only to see if they work, or blow the fuse, if OK turn them off.
Then step on the brake pedal, do the brake lights work properly? if so that part of the circuit is good. take your foot off the brakes.
Then turn the light switch to the parking position, if the fuse blows, the problem lies in just the parking lights if it doesn't that part of the circuit is OK.
Continue until you eliminate the good circuits and find the circuit that is bad.
Just my guess "Sealed beam" headlights are too much of a load and are blowing the fuse especially in the country beam position of the light switch. You may not have a problem with the wires.

[sunshine]

Terry , OH THANK YOU I have eliminated every thing except the hd. lites , fuse only blows when the hd. lites are turned on , everything else off. The man who made my new harness said he uses the same gauge wire for 40 fords and up that had sealed beams. this truck was converted years ago to sealed beams. I even tried the old sealed beams , same result.THIS IS PROBLEM IS THE FUSE GETS VERY HOT BEFORE IT BLOWS 20 amp would blow for sure. THANK YOU

[Kahuna]

Next, disconnect 1 headlite at a time and check again
You may also have a bad ground

[Kube]

Originally Posted by sunshine

Terry , OH THANK YOU I have eliminated every thing except the hd. lites , fuse only blows when the hd. lites are turned on , everything else off. The man who made my new harness said he uses the same gauge wire for 40 fords and up that had sealed beams. this truck was converted years ago to sealed beams. I even tried the old sealed beams , same result.THIS IS PROBLEM IS THE FUSE GETS VERY HOT BEFORE IT BLOWS 20 amp would blow for sure. THANK YOU

If it's gettig that hot, you know the 30 is too much.

Hey, attached is a diagram that I feel is easy to follow. Sorry the scan is poor. It's the best I have.
Hope it helps.

[sunshine]

Kube thank you for the diagram , that is the same one I got with my TYREE wire harness. I am going to try replacing my hd. lite bucket grounds THANK YOU SUNSHINE

[JSeery]

Your best bet would be to isolate the problem as suggested by several posters above. Need to determine what is causing the excess current draw.

[Don Rogers]

Sunshine, Try checking the fuse clips to see if they are making good contact with the fuse. Sometimes the clips expand or oxidize and do not make good contact.

[sunshine]

I have isolated it to the headlights . Also checked fuse holder one of ethe first things did. Although i have ground enough to work the hd. Lites .s0me thing i may have a bad or weak ground. So i am going to replace the grounds in the buckets thank you. Sunshine

[Don Rogers]

When I was trouble shooting poor grounding or over painted connections, I used a battery jumper cable....one end clipped to the motor or chassis the other end clipped to the suspected problem area ( in your case headlight bucket ). If the problem went away with the cable attached, then I discovered where the issue was

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by sunshine

I have isolated it to the headlights . Also checked fuse holder one of ethe first things did. Although i have ground enough to work the hd. Lites .s0me thing i may have a bad or weak ground. So i am going to replace the grounds in the buckets thank you. Sunshine

It is possible but a little odd that both headlights would be the issue. Have you tried disconnecting them one at a time to see if it is just one side?

[sunshine]

I HAVE isolated to hd. lites only as stated before. also checked fuse holder one of the first things I did . I going to replace the grounds in the hd. lite buckets. as some think I may have a weak ground SUNSHINE

[Jack E/NJ]

Sorry, a poor ground *usually* doesn't blow fuses. A good ground to something that shouldn't be grounded, seems like the issue.

Like JSeery suggests. Pull one receptacle at a time from the sealed beams. Test lights. If it still blows without the lights attached, there's a short somewhere between the switch and the headlight receptacles. Pinched wire or something.

Jack E/NJ

[JSeery]

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Originally Posted by sunshine

I HAVE isolated to hd. lites only as stated before. also checked fuse holder one of the first things I did . I going to replace the grounds in the hd. lite buckets. as some think I may have a weak ground SUNSHINE

Well, good luck but dought that is the issue. The best way to work electrical issues is to isolate the problem. Just headlights is not much to go on. Need to determine if it is a wire issue and which one, or if it is a different component in the circuit. I have worked electrical issues for years, and just trying to help here.

[Karl Wescott]

Try calculating the amperage draw for your headlights and taillights. Use this thread as a guide. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47571.

The fuses are to PROTECT THE WIRING FROM OVERHEATING AND CAUSING FIRE. If the wire size is correct for 20 amp do not exceed it.

If your lighting requirements are more than 20 amps then consider a relay to allow heavier wiring and more amperage from the battery/generator to the lights. (The light switch then provides low amperage signal current for the relay).

[sunshine]

JSeery thank you for your help and patience . The problem is I have not worked electrical problems. very much. I guess I am going to find some local help with this. THANK YOU SUNSHINE

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by sunshine

JSeery thank you for your help and patience . The problem is I have not worked electrical problems. very much. I guess I am going to find some local help with this. THANK YOU SUNSHINE

Might be a good idea. It is not very likely that the grounds would be causing a 30A fuse to overhead and blow. Grounds are about 90% of wiring issues but this sounds more like excessive current draw somewhere. Karl's suggestion is a good one if it is the headlights themselves that are responsible for the current draw. I have a diagram on connecting headlight relays if you decide to take that approach I can post it.