The Ford Barn

shew01 · 05-29-2020, 07:36 PM

This is the first time I have checked shock absorber fluid levels on my car, and I am confused with conflicting guidance. I have a 1931 Victoria with what appears to be original design shocks. When I remove the filler plug and stick a toothpick down the hole, I have some fluid, but it does not rise to the bottom of the filler hole.

IMG_2422.jpg

IMG_2423.jpg

Les Andrews, Volume 1, page 1-260 says, "Remove the filler plug and fill with shock fluid to the bottom of the filler hole. Replace the filler plug."

However, the bottle of shock fluid I recently purchased from Bratton's has a white piece of paper inside the plastic bag-sealed bottle that says, "SHOCK FLUID DO NOT fill the upper reservoir with oil. These shocks have been internally sealed to trap necessary oil in the working chambers of the shock. This was necessary to correct an original engineering flaw that enabled most shocks to leak oil around the outer cap. Your shocks have been oiled and tested for normal road and load use and should function perfectly on your car."

IMG_2419.jpg

So.... Do I add shock oil, or not?

daren007 · 05-29-2020, 08:24 PM

Yess.add.

chrs1961815 · 05-29-2020, 09:31 PM

Only reproduction shocks should not be oiled.

Patrick L. · 05-30-2020, 06:37 AM

Call them. I think what you're reading is meant for the reproduction shocks [ non-Stipe] they sell.
Stipe and originals should be full or close to it.

Joop · 05-30-2020, 01:02 PM

What is the writing on the shock cover

That could determine which shocks you have on there

shew01 · 05-30-2020, 02:49 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joop

What is the writing on the shock cover

That could determine which shocks you have on there

“HYDRAULIC SUSPENSION PAT 1087017” 1426115-1499660

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

shew01 · 05-30-2020, 02:50 PM

I just learned that at least two of the filler plugs have stripped threads. Is that common? What are my options?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

shew01 · 05-30-2020, 02:56 PM

Also, can anyone tell me the fluid capacity of the shocks? The first one took 1.5 ounces to reach the bottom of the filler hole. The second one looks to be about the same.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

J Franklin · 05-30-2020, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shew01

I just learned that at least two of the filler plugs have stripped threads. Is that common? What are my options?

You could try to retap the threads or just put a drop of Locktite on the threads so the plug stays put, and then don't worry too much.

shew01 · 05-30-2020, 03:20 PM

It turns out all four filler plugs have stripped threads, and all four shocks were at least 1 ounce low on fluid. I suspect they were almost dry, but I don’t know their fluid capacity.

I only added one ounce to the second, third, and fourth shocks, in case they leak profusely. I’ve had the car 9 months, and they haven’t leaked in the past. But, this is the first time I’ve checked them, and if they were dry they wouldn’t leak anyway.

Does anyone have any words of wisdom?

For the moment, I’m putting everything back together, and I’ll keep an eye out for leaks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

shew01 · 05-30-2020, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J Franklin

You could try to retap the threads or just put a drop of Locktite on the threads so the plug stays put, and then don't worry too much.

Will Locktite work on an oily surface?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DBSHELTON · 05-30-2020, 04:21 PM

I think I would wrap the plug threads with teflon tape and screw them in snug, not real tight.

Ruth · 05-30-2020, 05:14 PM

When I first got my car I checked the shocks and found them low. Filled them up. Next morning I had four oil puddles.

shew01 · 05-30-2020, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ruth

When I first got my car I checked the shock and found them low. Filled them up. Next morning I had four oil puddles.

Yeah, I wouldn’t be surprised if I end up with four puddles too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

J Franklin · 05-30-2020, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shew01

Will Locktite work on an oily surface?

Yes somewhat, but you can clean the plug in solvent as well as the threads in the body. For that, use solvent on a bit of twisted rag or Q-tip.
The shocks, if bad, may be rebuildable.

shew01 · 05-31-2020, 06:12 AM

It looks like Snyder’s and Bratton’s carry the filler plugs.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword

I made a note to add replacements to my next order. I’m hoping just the plugs are stripped.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

shew01 · 05-31-2020, 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J Franklin

Yes somewhat, but you can clean the plug in solvent as well as the threads in the body. For that, use solvent on a bit of twisted rag or Q-tip.

The shocks, if bad, may be rebuildable.

Thanks for the tip. I see this rebuild kit from Bratton's.

https://www.brattons.com/square-sytl...-pro-pack.html

I've never rebuilt a shock, and this part number comes with an instructional DVD. Realistically, how difficult is it to rebuild shocks? Is this task one of the Model A "art forms," or is it more of a science that would be reasonably difficult to mess up? Do you need special equipment (like a press or something else that shade tree mechanic would be unlikely to have on hand)?

dumb person · 05-31-2020, 06:27 AM

As for stripped plugs, should the housing be stripped, dip the plugs in wax, and re-install them in a slightly cleaned housing with an epoxy akin to 'jb weld'.

Refill shocks as necessary.

I have never re-built one, so cannot offer much advice on that task.

shew01 · 05-31-2020, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dumb person

As for stripped plugs, should the housing be stripped, dip the plugs in wax, and re-install them in a slightly cleaned housing with an epoxy akin to 'jb weld'.

Refill shocks as necessary.

That’s a thought. Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Kevin in NJ · 05-31-2020, 07:09 AM

It is common for the shocks to leak. I am still trying to get a handle on the seals as there are at least 2 types when I was looking a while ago. Even more if they were rebuilt a while ago.

Here is my thoughts.

First figure out if they are real originals or a reproduction. We would need better pictures. It is odd that all the fills are stripped. Not sure what is going on there. They are pipe tapped.

You need to take all the shocks off the car.
Put them in a vice and see if they work. You may need to add some oil. They should be really hard to move in one direction and less in the other. If you turn the valve all the way down they should be really really hard to move.

Any play in the shaft and the shock is bad, go no further.

If not then you have a problem. Too many shocks are more decorative then functional.

To get the seal replaced you will need to take apart the cover. This can be a chore and you my need some special tools depending. Once you have the cover off you can try to take the cover off with some big tools. But just take the seal off and see if you have some play on the shaft. Play=no good or maybe work sort of if you put in thicker oil.

The internals of the shock need to be to .001" tolerance or better, I have never seen prints. I know have have some very slightly worn shocks and they do not dampen even close to factory specs.

If the internals seem good you need to clean the cover threads well and see how tight the cover fits screw it on some and see how much play you have. If it rattles around on the threads then use a torch and do some heat shrinks around the cover until it fits more snug. This reduces the oil getting out of the threads. The O rings I have seen are too stiff and do not press into the threads and properly seal. When taking off the covers I do light hammer taps which expand the cover diameter. So I shrink back to a tight fit.

Someone else is going to have to chime in about which shaft and cover seal work.

Just in case, you need to pull the covers to tap the threads so you do not be metal shavings in the oil.

The above is based on my preliminary work on a pile if decent shock I own. I stopped when I found I needed to get a heavier oil and I wanted to make a more accurate KRW copy of the shock testing tool. The tool is basically like a 6 lb weight like 18" or so from the shaft. Be a while so do not take my numbers seriously. My good shocks would take like 5 seconds to drop lock to lock. Specs in the service bulletins say it should take like 15 seconds.

05-29-2020, 07:36 PM	#1
shew01 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Roanoke, VA USA Posts: 1,908	Shock Absorber Fluid This is the first time I have checked shock absorber fluid levels on my car, and I am confused with conflicting guidance. I have a 1931 Victoria with what appears to be original design shocks. When I remove the filler plug and stick a toothpick down the hole, I have some fluid, but it does not rise to the bottom of the filler hole. IMG_2422.jpg IMG_2423.jpg Les Andrews, Volume 1, page 1-260 says, "Remove the filler plug and fill with shock fluid to the bottom of the filler hole. Replace the filler plug." However, the bottle of shock fluid I recently purchased from Bratton's has a white piece of paper inside the plastic bag-sealed bottle that says, "SHOCK FLUID DO NOT fill the upper reservoir with oil. These shocks have been internally sealed to trap necessary oil in the working chambers of the shock. This was necessary to correct an original engineering flaw that enabled most shocks to leak oil around the outer cap. Your shocks have been oiled and tested for normal road and load use and should function perfectly on your car." IMG_2419.jpg So.... Do I add shock oil, or not?

05-29-2020, 08:24 PM	#2
daren007 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Saint Cloud Mn Posts: 745	Re: Shock Absorber Fluid Yess.add.

05-29-2020, 09:31 PM	#3
chrs1961815 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Spring Grove, Illinois Posts: 1,371	Re: Shock Absorber Fluid Only reproduction shocks should not be oiled. __________________ "The more things change, the more they stay the same."

05-30-2020, 06:37 AM	#4
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Shock Absorber Fluid Call them. I think what you're reading is meant for the reproduction shocks [ non-Stipe] they sell. Stipe and originals should be full or close to it.

05-30-2020, 01:02 PM	#5
Joop Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Glendale, AZ Posts: 2,950	Re: Shock Absorber Fluid What is the writing on the shock cover That could determine which shocks you have on there

05-30-2020, 02:50 PM	#7
shew01 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Roanoke, VA USA Posts: 1,908	Re: Shock Absorber Fluid I just learned that at least two of the filler plugs have stripped threads. Is that common? What are my options? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

05-30-2020, 02:56 PM	#8
shew01 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Roanoke, VA USA Posts: 1,908	Re: Shock Absorber Fluid Also, can anyone tell me the fluid capacity of the shocks? The first one took 1.5 ounces to reach the bottom of the filler hole. The second one looks to be about the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

05-30-2020, 03:20 PM	#10
shew01 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Roanoke, VA USA Posts: 1,908	Re: Shock Absorber Fluid It turns out all four filler plugs have stripped threads, and all four shocks were at least 1 ounce low on fluid. I suspect they were almost dry, but I don’t know their fluid capacity. I only added one ounce to the second, third, and fourth shocks, in case they leak profusely. I’ve had the car 9 months, and they haven’t leaked in the past. But, this is the first time I’ve checked them, and if they were dry they wouldn’t leak anyway. Does anyone have any words of wisdom? For the moment, I’m putting everything back together, and I’ll keep an eye out for leaks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

05-30-2020, 04:21 PM	#12
DBSHELTON Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Kountze,TX Posts: 313	Re: Shock Absorber Fluid I think I would wrap the plug threads with teflon tape and screw them in snug, not real tight.

05-30-2020, 05:14 PM	#13
Ruth Senior Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Glide, Oregon Posts: 1,336	Re: Shock Absorber Fluid When I first got my car I checked the shocks and found them low. Filled them up. Next morning I had four oil puddles. __________________ Ruth "Sometimes you really DO need to read the whole thread" Last edited by Ruth; 05-30-2020 at 11:03 PM.

05-31-2020, 06:12 AM	#16
shew01 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Roanoke, VA USA Posts: 1,908	Shock Absorber Fluid It looks like Snyder’s and Bratton’s carry the filler plugs. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword I made a note to add replacements to my next order. I’m hoping just the plugs are stripped. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

05-31-2020, 06:27 AM	#18
dumb person Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: South pacific island Posts: 1,724	Re: Shock Absorber Fluid As for stripped plugs, should the housing be stripped, dip the plugs in wax, and re-install them in a slightly cleaned housing with an epoxy akin to 'jb weld'. Refill shocks as necessary. I have never re-built one, so cannot offer much advice on that task. __________________ <Link> This is how we roll<Link> "I'm Convinced that no one really reads posts anymore; they just fabricate what they think the post says then ramble on about red herrings."--Bob Outcasts rules of old cars #1 Fun is imperative, mainstream is overrated #2 If they think it is impossible, prove them wrong #3 If the science says it impossible you are not being creative enough. #4 No shame in recreating something you never had #5 If it were not for the law & physics you would be unstoppable

05-31-2020, 07:09 AM	#20
Kevin in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South East NJ Posts: 3,398	Re: Shock Absorber Fluid It is common for the shocks to leak. I am still trying to get a handle on the seals as there are at least 2 types when I was looking a while ago. Even more if they were rebuilt a while ago. Here is my thoughts. First figure out if they are real originals or a reproduction. We would need better pictures. It is odd that all the fills are stripped. Not sure what is going on there. They are pipe tapped. You need to take all the shocks off the car. Put them in a vice and see if they work. You may need to add some oil. They should be really hard to move in one direction and less in the other. If you turn the valve all the way down they should be really really hard to move. Any play in the shaft and the shock is bad, go no further. If not then you have a problem. Too many shocks are more decorative then functional. To get the seal replaced you will need to take apart the cover. This can be a chore and you my need some special tools depending. Once you have the cover off you can try to take the cover off with some big tools. But just take the seal off and see if you have some play on the shaft. Play=no good or maybe work sort of if you put in thicker oil. The internals of the shock need to be to .001" tolerance or better, I have never seen prints. I know have have some very slightly worn shocks and they do not dampen even close to factory specs. If the internals seem good you need to clean the cover threads well and see how tight the cover fits screw it on some and see how much play you have. If it rattles around on the threads then use a torch and do some heat shrinks around the cover until it fits more snug. This reduces the oil getting out of the threads. The O rings I have seen are too stiff and do not press into the threads and properly seal. When taking off the covers I do light hammer taps which expand the cover diameter. So I shrink back to a tight fit. Someone else is going to have to chime in about which shaft and cover seal work. Just in case, you need to pull the covers to tap the threads so you do not be metal shavings in the oil. The above is based on my preliminary work on a pile if decent shock I own. I stopped when I found I needed to get a heavier oil and I wanted to make a more accurate KRW copy of the shock testing tool. The tool is basically like a 6 lb weight like 18" or so from the shaft. Be a while so do not take my numbers seriously. My good shocks would take like 5 seconds to drop lock to lock. Specs in the service bulletins say it should take like 15 seconds.