Water pump comparisons

[elmangle]

I've read several threads related to the benefits of the newer model water pumps, or Skip's rebuilt pumps, but I'm wondering if anyone has actually done a flow rate comparison of the various options available. I'm considering replacing my original pumps in hopes of helping with a stubborn overheating tendency. Anecdotal evidence also accepted!

[19Fordy]

I did have my 8BA pumps rebuilt by Skip and did notice a difference. I think comparison flow tests have been done by GM on Fordbarn. I also have a Griffen Cobra radiator since 1999.

Here's the Comparison test results.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ump+flow+rates

[drolston]

Tried Dennis Carpenter water pumps as they claim to improve flow at idle, which is where my overheating problems were worst. Made no discernable improvement. Ultimate solution was a higher capacity (volume and cooling area) radiator, and cutting the concentration of antifreeze from 50% to 20%.

[CA Victoria]

Been down that road before. The best money is to attack the flow problem and not increase the flow. I tried to take the easy road and it ended costing more in time and parts.......... The 4 row radiator in an F1 with a shroud and 4 blade fan is really efficient.
Stock pumps are OK, but Skips pumps are the best-
Have you ruled out an exhaust gas leak?
Have radiator cleaned or replace.
Attack the buildup in the blocks water jackets.
If the engine has set for awhile it may need a good cleaning.
Pulling the heads can help to access the rear passages.

[shoe box Jack]

Skips pumps worked for me. Jack.

[Newc]

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On the West Coast , we use Fryer's V8 pumps. Brass turbine impellers and the ceramic seals. Add in V8 times. Newc

[Kube]

I have and will continue to use Skips pumps. he does an excellent job rebuilding them at a very fair price.
However, I have never noted any difference in operating temperature on any of my vehicles now equipped with his pumps compared to "regular' pumps.

But, keep in mind, my cars are restored properly so I am not attempting to add a "band aid" to an otherwise less than optimal cooling system.

[flatjack9]

I've been running stock pumps on my engine for well over 20 years with an original 39 radiator. No cooling problems. But like Kube, my engine was built properly.

[elmangle]

Thank you, all, for the helpful input. The thing is, I AM wanting to put a bandaid on a problem, rather than do a complete teardown and rebuild. This engine has only about 1000 miles on it after a professional rebuild by a very reputable machine shop, before I bought the truck. It has always run hotter on the driver's side, about 200 degrees on a cool day, and disturbingly higher on hot ones. I've had the head pressure tested and slightly milled to insure flatness, and have replaced the head gasket. While the head was off I did a dye test - twice - on the block and could find no cracks. I am pretty sure there must be an internal crack, because I have some small bubbling on that side, seen by disabling the water pump, disconnecting the radiator hose at the the head, and running the engine. However, I have not been able to discern exhaust gasses in the cooland by using one of the commercially available "sniffers" in the radiator. So, the deal is, since the engine is in otherwise excellent condition, and wanting to keep it that way, I would just like to find the bandaid that would drop the running temperature about 10 degrees and that would be enough to make me feel comfortable using it.

[JSeery]

The block should have been pressure tested before it was machined, but that is water under the bridge. If you think it has a somewhat minor leak add a coolant system sealant. I have had good luck with the sealants. You can test the coolant for combustion gas to verify any leakage.

[Kube]

How is the radiator? I'd have that re-cored first and foremost.
The pumps may help.
Also, like JSeery has suggested, install some high quality sealant.

[CA Victoria]

I was reading some of the past post tracking your problem. It has been my experience that assuming that everting is OK may lead you down the wrong path.
The engine was built and set for 20 years isn’t a bad thing. Was there any signs of flaking inside the block? Still recommend addressing the radiator. Adding sealant to a system with compromised tubes is no bueno.
Similar conditions with my F1, restoring the radiator was key to maintaining <180 temps
Just my 2 cents........

[elmangle]

Thanks, guys. Looks like I'll just have to try new pumps and have the radiator checked and/or recored, although I assumed it was done at the time of the restoration and I can't find any cool spots using my infrared thermometer. In the last case, I know where there is a good rebuildable engine, sitting on a pallet under a tarp. It came out of a '51 I drove for 20 years but which was changed to all Chevy by the fellow I sold it to. It had no cooling issues.

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by elmangle

I know where there is a good rebuildable engine, sitting on a pallet under a tarp. It came out of a '51 I drove for 20 years but which was changed to all Chevy by the fellow I sold it to. It had no cooling issues.

If you plan to stay with flatheads for the long haul, you
had better grab it.

[elmangle]

Originally Posted by JSeery

The block should have been pressure tested before it was machined, but that is water under the bridge. If you think it has a somewhat minor leak add a coolant system sealant. I have had good luck with the sealants. You can test the coolant for combustion gas to verify any leakage.

Good advice, but I've tried 3 different sealers without effect. Not sure why.

[G.M.]

Skips pumps are a no brainer. They pump almost double
the coolant, less air and engines run cooler in most cases.
These are the last pumps you will ever buy, if they fail he
fixes them at NO CHARGE. He has rebuilt more than
20,000 sets. Ask the people who use them how they work.
The best ones are the older ones with bushings. G.M.

[drolston]

What anti-freeze mix are you using? On a hot day try running plain water which has a significantly higher heat carrying capacity than 50/50 antifreeze. That might get you the 10 degrees you are looking for. 20% is plenty of system protection and good down to about +18 degrees.

[mfirth]

What about the thermostats ? My 8BA ran 190-195 with 160 stats. Changed to 180 stats with a 1/16 hole drilled in them and it ran at 180-190...190-195 on hot days. Drivers side was a few degrees hotter, but not a problem.

[rockfla]

My 39 Merc is running water pumps from Skip with a stock radiator Clean and checked from a local Rad shop) and 180 thermostats. Here in North Florida in the last two to three weeks its been consistently mid 90's in the day and she runs as it should, no overheating problems what so ever!!! AS others have noted....IF your system is completely clean and flushed......then you should have NO issues!!!!

[elmangle]

Originally Posted by drolston

What anti-freeze mix are you using? On a hot day try running plain water which has a significantly higher heat carrying capacity than 50/50 antifreeze. That might get you the 10 degrees you are looking for. 20% is plenty of system protection and good down to about +18 degrees.

Running straight water right now, no thermostats.