Adjusting

[Werner]

I thought that I measure twice front and back of the wheel, after a half wheel turn again. Then I'll take the middle value. To compensate for side impact (lurching) of the rim.

[johnneilson]

It used to be said "win on sunday, sell on monday" racing was ingenious years ago.

In my travels around the garage areas I spied a simple alignment tool consisting of a couple pieces of tubing and some string. By attaching to the car you can lift the car, make a change and then settle it and measure again.

John

[Werner]

Hello everybody.



Setting the track does not work properly. The rims wheels both have a bit of side impact. Not much, but still I can not set exactly enough with the built gage described above.

Does anyone know "Trakrite"? That actually reads logically. But only works if I drive 100 % straight over the plate. And I'm afraid that there too fast 1/10 "can be wrong ....



Does anyone have experience with it?

[SAJ]

Werner, if you fix a tool such as the one I described, or a Duby Gauge or one made from a shower curtain rail between the tyres at the correct height and then roll the car forward without moving the tool from the tyres, any bend or wobble in either wheel remains the same and does not affect the toe in measurement. You leave the tool held between the tyres by the spring and points on its ends and as you roll the car forward it moves downwards then backwards and upwards to just below the wishbone. This is where you look to see how much the tubes have extended (got longer)explanation and this distance is your toe in. There is no averaging or calculation. Just the gap between the marks you make where the tubes meet in front and then behind the axle.
SAJ in NZ

[whirnot]

Originally Posted by denniskliesen

I do basically the same as Synchro, except I rotate the tire and scribe a mark on each near the center. If I make a change to the tie rod, I always roll the car rear and then forward to relieve pull on the tires.

This is the method I was taught in Automotive school years ago. And very nice setup, by the way. It is very accurate. Having said that, the guage between the tires is as well, as long as the guage isn't moved. The distance realitive to the other wheel is the key..

[Werner]

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Only now I have understood that correctly! I'll report if I did it right.



Thanks twice, SAJ!

[Werner]

Hello forum-men,


the adjusting now worked well today. Measuring and adjusting toe-in. (Chain length 6 inches.)

Thanks to this forum for the right note with the springy curtain rod.

[Jw]

Stanley Tape measure , rear is 1/16 wider that the front, very simple!

[Werner]

Good evening,
no, it's not so easy! The side impact of the rims must be compensated. And this works only if the two points in the back measurement are exactly the same points when measured front. This works with the tip-modified and spring-loaded measuring rod. This remains clamped when rolling forward exactly between the two measuring points. We speak of a difference accuracy of only 0.08 inches!

[SAJ]

Well done Werner. I just fitted reconditioned steering arms to my wife's Tudor.
After changing the arms it had about an inch of toe in. I reset to 1/32 inch using my home made spring trammel, gauged by eye between 2 marks, since there is no reason to be more accurate by measuring at that small figure. This is for 16 inch radial tyres on V8 rims. Some say use zero toe in for radial tyres, but I chose1/32, since any toe out on a model A gives steering that can dart left and right, I believe from previous experience.
Anyway a run down the motorway up to 70 mph felt very stable, so I will just keep an eye on tyre wear, which should be minimised with this tiny toe in figure to avoid potential scuffing.
I have been using 1/32 On my Roadster with 550 by19 Stahl radials too and steering is very stable with no signs of scuffing or wear so far.
Any comments from others?
SAJ in NZ