WCFB - No Gas

[AR]

Hello
I tried to post this earlier but did not go through. Here it is again.
My 56 Monterey Wagon which has a stock 312 automatic set up. It has been sitting for a couple of months and it will not start. I narrowed it down to no gas in the carburetor. I poured a little in the carburetor and it would start for a few seconds. The fuel pump is getting gas to the carburetor. I pumped the throttle many times and not seeing any gas streaming from the primaries. I do not know much about carburetors but I do know I want to change out the WCFB and Loadamatic soon. For Now I would like to get the wagon back on the road!!
Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by AR

My 56 Monterey Wagon which has a stock 312 automatic set up. It has been sitting for a couple of months and it will not start. I narrowed it down to no gas in the carburetor. I poured a little in the carburetor and it would start for a few seconds.

The fuel pump is getting gas to the carburetor. I pumped the throttle many times and not seeing any gas streaming from the primaries. I do not know much about carburetors but I do know I want to change out the WCFB and Loadamatic soon.

Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks

How do you know the pump is delivering fuel to the carb? Do you have a pressure gauge or did you remove the line @ the carb to see if it shoots (be very careful here)?

By pouring gas into the throttle opening and it's attempting to start tells you the IGN SYS is OK. You will most likely find (if you have pump delivery) that the carb has become gummed up as a result of today's gasoline. The fuel evaporates very quickly and leaves deposits behind.

You might try adding fuel into the fuel bowl through the bowl vent and see if that will free deposits in the carb after a while. Otherwise a cleaning and kit will be needed.

Is this a driver or are you trying to stay somewhat authentic?

[AR]

I unscrewed the gas line at the carburetor and turned over the engine manually. It half filled a plastic water bottle within 5 seconds or so. What I have seen in other threads is that the 56 carb/ distrubutor set up is not the best. I would definitely like to switch out with as little modifications as possible.
Please advise
Thanks

[fordrodsteven]

If you pushed the throttle lever and didn't see any fuel squirt down in the carb it probably needs what I call the accelerator pump or as some others call it (the power piston). It's the rubber cup / diaphragm that has a rod that pushes it to give the squirt of fuel when you push the throttle linkage. The part usually comes in an inexpensive carburetor tune up kit.

[jimvette59]

There should be a brass filter where the fuel line goes in . You should see a large nut, that is holding the fuel filter in it may be clogged. JMHO.

[AR]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I check filter screen and there were no obstructions. It looks like if it is the accelerator pump diaphragm I will need to disassemble the carburetor to replace it. No short cut - right ?
Thanks

[fordrodsteven]

I'm not sure about your particular carb but I have done it while still on the car. ('57 Chevy many years ago) I just undid linkages and screws at the top and worked my way into the carb to get it changed. BUT a word of warning! BE VERY CAREFUL to not drop anything down the throat of the carburetor. SO...... Best advice is to probably pull the carb off to do the job. You can also clean out any crap in the carb and you will also be putting new gaskets as you re-assemble (with the tune up kit). Then the carb will be clean and squirting the gas as designed!

[flatrod]

I would go with Kultulz and fill the bowl through the vent. Let it sit a day or two, it may fix itself. The accelerator pump is usually a leather plunger that shrinks when dry, fresh fuel should swell it back up.

[AR]

I will try that approach and let you know the outcome.
Thanks

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by AR

.....What I have seen in other threads is that the 56 carb/ distrubutor set up is not the best. I would definitely like to switch out with as little modifications as possible.
Please advise
Thanks

The easiest solution is to fix the original carb.

It may or may not be the best but it is 'one year only' and the carb, distributor and intake manifold from '56 won't fit / work correctly with those parts from other years.
Upgrading to the preferred '57+ versions of these parts is obviously more of a project than a carb rebuild.

[KULTULZ]

1956 MERC 312 WCFB LOM

Originally Posted by AR

I do not know much about carburetors but I do know I want to change out the WCFB and Loadamatic soon. For Now I would like to get the wagon back on the road!!

Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks

Originally Posted by AR

What I have seen in other threads is that the 56 carb/ distrubutor set up is not the best. I would definitely like to switch out with as little modifications as possible.

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

The easiest solution is to fix the original carb.

It may or may not be the best but it is 'one year only' and the carb, distributor and intake manifold from '56 won't fit / work correctly with those parts from other years.

Upgrading to the preferred '57+ versions of these parts is obviously more of a project than a carb rebuild.

Very Well Said...

I guess I am one of the worst in my description(s) of the FORD LOAD-O-MATIC System(s) and in all actuality is not 100 correct. While the system is not the best choice for performance (IMO), the system is adjustable to bring the car to acceptable performance. It requires a lot of detail work but can be done.

That being said, to change performance to the '57 up style will require at the minimum a distributor change.

Get her running and we will discuss it here afterwards if you want.

Now, is the car a driver, want to keep original and/or something you want to modify for better performance?

[miker98038]

IIRC, all modern carbs will require an adaptor plate on the OEM manifold. But there’s nothing wrong with the WCFB that probably can’t be fixed. If you don’t want to tackle it, there’s got to be someone in Riverside that remembers how to deal with them. Sal on here would, but he’s back in Michigan. Just the right kit with ethanol resistant seals/gaskets. This should get you running with minimal tuning if it was right when you parked it. Go thru all the checks above first though.

Then you can fit the 57 up distributor. If there’s no proper vacuum fitting on the WCFB you can use manifold vacuum. If you do that, check the timing with the old dizzy first, just to make sure the damper hasn’t slipped. Then you’ve got a basemark to go back to.

If you not happy with the performance you can go looking for a later manifold and carb, but don’t junk that one. They’re worth money to the restoration guys, and some really like them on the dual quad E code manifolds. After all, you don’t have to quit driving this time of year like those of us up north.

[AR]

Thanks guys for your input. I removed the vapor vent dust cover to look at the pump rod and plunger. I noticed it was very hard to push down and it would slowly come back up. I realized that it was sticking. I pushed it up and down several times and it freed itself. Carburetor is now getting gas. It started up after several attempts!! I noticed that the vapor vent was not gapped the 1/16 that the book shows. I corrected the gap. I still need to make final adjustments and see how it goes.
For now I will stay with the old WCFB.
Thanks for your honest input.
AR

[scicala]

AR, if you ever need any help with the WCFB, I would be glad to help. Michigan is only about $25 shipping away. Glad you got it running.

Sal

[AR]

Sal
I certainly will and thanks for the offer.
AR

[fordrodsteven]

Originally Posted by AR

Thanks guys for your input. I removed the vapor vent dust cover to look at the pump rod and plunger. I noticed it was very hard to push down and it would slowly come back up. I realized that it was sticking. I pushed it up and down several times and it freed itself. Carburetor is now getting gas. It started up after several attempts!! I noticed that the vapor vent was not gapped the 1/16 that the book shows. I corrected the gap. I still need to make final adjustments and see how it goes.
For now I will stay with the old WCFB.
Thanks for your honest input.
AR

Just a thought.... If there is any buildup / corrosion on the side wall of the chamber where the piston slides up and down it will eventually cause excessive wear to the rubber plunger and you will find it doesn't squirt the fuel.

[turnpikecrusier]

Just went through the same thing on my 57 mercury. I have a spare WCFB so I disassembled it. Big mistake lots of parts. Ended up spraying carb cleaner in the inlet, then removing the inspection plug on the fuel bowl. I used a small screwdriver to work the float up and down. Hooked up the fuel line and she fired right up. Whew! The spare carb is another story.

[AR]

I will take your advise and do the same thing. I am really glad that I was able to fire up the engine with little effort. Patience and a little knowledge goes a long way.
Thank you all for your input!