Shifting into second gear tough.

[37 Coupe]

When I bought the '31 almost two years ago it actually drove and shifted fine but I did know I was going to have to pull the engine for some work. While I had it out I checked out the transmission and although all the gears were very good condition the bearings were not especially the small shaft caged roller bearings.One was apart and rollers were in the case but yet it shhowed no shifting problems. So I rebuilt the transmission nd got good bearings,put it together and decided mayby I should go over the transmission tower,I guess I thought the shift lever was worn too much.So then I see on the Model A unlike Early V8 Fords I have rebuilt you need some special spring tools.I also see where Snyders here in Ohio will rebuild them for you ,the direction I went.Looked great when I got it back but it wasn't the one I sent them as it was supposed to be I even tagged it to rebuild this one not an exchange,take as long as it has to be. I get this one in a couple days. Now it looks great and I installed it last winter 2019,nice chrome shift lever although I think Taiwan. I finally get my first drives this spring and it is sometimes near impossible to shift into second.I double clutch,I triple clutch,I move lever sideways the up and its like blocked. Sometimes it goes right in but most times by the time I get it in second I am slower than I should be.Some have told me to just get it rolling and then let second take over. Is this the way it should be if everything iss new and tight? The Model A Fords my dad and I both had 55 years ago were never like this.Dad was the first to show me how to lift gear lever up and swing it over while driving so your girl friend has more leg room,cannot on the Snyder top very strong spring. Guess I need to try another top or is this something else or common. I also redid clutch ,throwout bearng etc so that seems good.Really bad when you take off fine in first from a light and you hope to get ahead of the guy or gal close behind you and you drop speed making them get even closer.

[ronn]

that isnt right. I would pull it and tell them I want it replaced. no reason for that..........

[duke36]

Can you slide into 2nd when the car is at idle ?This is a long shot and may not be a solution but not sure what gear lube you are using. The modern 600 is really SAE 140 and when warmed up may not be viscous enough to slow the gears. Modern 1200w or 1500 has been discussed on other threads and is closer to the period orig. 600w.

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by duke36

Can you slide into 2nd when the car is at idle ?This is a long shot and may not be a solution but not sure what gear lube you are using. The modern 600 is really SAE 140 and when warmed up may not be viscous enough to slow the gears. Modern 1200w or 1500 has been discussed on other threads and is closer to the period orig. 600w.

I am using the "600" gear lube that Snyders and Brattons sell. I will try tomorrow shifting from neutral.

[ryanheacox]

Yeah that doesn't sound right. I use the same 600W from Brattons and can spin my Fordor up to 15 in first and then double clutch it into second without losing much speed. Seems like it slows the gears right down. Definitely sounds like an issue with the tower and something Snyders should and will take care of.

[37 Coupe]

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Originally Posted by ryanheacox

Yeah that doesn't sound right. I use the same 600W from Brattons and can spin my Fordor up to 15 in first and then double clutch it into second without losing much speed. Seems like it slows the gears right down. Definitely sounds like an issue with the tower and something Snyders should and will take care of.

Even after almost a year and a half?

[updraught]

Bolt the tower to something with the forks hanging free and then change virtual gears and see how notchy it is.

[chrs1961815]

Reproduction forks or an oversized gear shift lever ball? Something is not right.

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by chrs1961815

Reproduction forks or an oversized gear shift lever ball? Something is not right.

Got some checking out to do.Car drives so good except for this issue. I thought the original shift lever ball was worn too much and went from there now I wish I had it back instead of the chrome plated Taiwan one. I do have another shift tower that I will install and see if that corrects it. Its not grinding into second its just lock it is totally blocked out until it decides to finally unblock and let it go into gear.

[chrs1961815]

As much as I don't like the reproduction shift levers, I think your problem lies with the plunger getting jammed or stuck now that I think about it.

[37 Coupe]

Well I am wondering now if it isn't the rpm gear issue. I just went out and with not even starting engine it seems to go through all the gears smoothly with shift lever,sometimes even without using clutch.So mayby I do rev to high from first to second or need a thicker weight gear lube to slow things down.

[rotorwrench]

I'd check condition of the fork rod for 2nd/3rd with emphasis on the detent ball, spring, and depth of groove in the fork shaft. It can be checked as was previously mentioned with the tower off the transmission. Too strong a spring or too deep a fit could cause detent problems.

I'd then check how easy it is to move the sliding gear for 2nd and see if it is stiff sliding on the output shaft. It should slide easily with the top off. Fork straightness and fit in the gear groove also should be checked.

You just never know what you're going to get with any reproduction parts you may get. Folks have also had problems with some of the small wide caged bearings for the shafts. They may have dimensional problems or problems with material and hardness of the rollers.

[Dave Slater]

Did you replace the two shafts that the forks are attached to? Some reproduction shafts do not have a slit running lengthways on the shaft located at the back of the tower. Without the slit on the shaft it will create suction/compression when shifting. Dave

[Big hammer]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

Well I am wondering now if it isn't the rpm gear issue. I just went out and with not even starting engine it seems to go through all the gears smoothly with shift lever,sometimes even without using clutch.So mayby I do rev to high from first to second or need a thicker weight gear lube to slow things down.

Shifting from 1st to 2nd - 5 to 8 mph, also the engine rpm needs to drop back to a nice slow idle !

[Synchro909]

When you reinstalled the engine, did you make sure you didn't bend the clutch plate. A bent plate will not release properly.

[29Cabriolet]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

When I bought the '31 almost two years ago it actually drove and shifted fine but I did know I was going to have to pull the engine for some work. While I had it out I checked out the transmission and although all the gears were very good condition the bearings were not especially the small shaft caged roller bearings.One was apart and rollers were in the case but yet it shhowed no shifting problems. So I rebuilt the transmission nd got good bearings,put it together and decided mayby I should go over the transmission tower,I guess I thought the shift lever was worn too much.So then I see on the Model A unlike Early V8 Fords I have rebuilt you need some special spring tools.I also see where Snyders here in Ohio will rebuild them for you ,the direction I went.Looked great when I got it back but it wasn't the one I sent them as it was supposed to be I even tagged it to rebuild this one not an exchange,take as long as it has to be. I get this one in a couple days. Now it looks great and I installed it last winter 2019,nice chrome shift lever although I think Taiwan. I finally get my first drives this spring and it is sometimes near impossible to shift into second.I double clutch,I triple clutch,I move lever sideways the up and its like blocked. Sometimes it goes right in but most times by the time I get it in second I am slower than I should be.Some have told me to just get it rolling and then let second take over. Is this the way it should be if everything iss new and tight? The Model A Fords my dad and I both had 55 years ago were never like this.Dad was the first to show me how to lift gear lever up and swing it over while driving so your girl friend has more leg room,cannot on the Snyder top very strong spring. Guess I need to try another top or is this something else or common. I also redid clutch ,throwout bearng etc so that seems good.Really bad when you take off fine in first from a light and you hope to get ahead of the guy or gal close behind you and you drop speed making them get even closer.

Not sure if the cause is the same or similar, but I had trouble shifting into second. My solution, that I stumbled on by accident, is to shift in a deliberate H pattern rather than a sort of diagonal direction as you would with most modern cars. That is, straight up into neutral, square "turn" over, then straight up. Works every time for me, maybe that will help you(?)

[shew01]

Originally Posted by 29Cabriolet

Not sure if the cause is the same or similar, but I had trouble shifting into second. My solution, that I stumbled on by accident, is to shift in a deliberate H pattern rather than a sort of diagonal direction as you would with most modern cars. That is, straight up into neutral, square "turn" over, then straight up. Works every time for me, maybe that will help you(?)

I tend to get smoother shifts that way too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[37 Coupe]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I think I have ruled out the transmission tower because I can sit in the car and most times go gear to gear H pattern with no blockage,enine off clutch or no clutch. So mayby it is due to gears not slowing down enough with the 600wt oil which some have said in searched post is actually off the shelf 150wt or so. I ordered a jug of the Merola gear lube that is supposedly equivalent to the thickness of the original 600 that Ford called for when new.Some have said it made all the difference,some have said it will destroy yellow metal but gotta be better than grinding gear teeth.

[ryanheacox]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I think I have ruled out the transmission tower because I can sit in the car and most times go gear to gear H pattern with no blockage,enine off clutch or no clutch. So mayby it is due to gears not slowing down enough with the 600wt oil which some have said in searched post is actually off the shelf 150wt or so. I ordered a jug of the Merola gear lube that is supposedly equivalent to the thickness of the original 600 that Ford called for when new.Some have said it made all the difference,some have said it will destroy yellow metal but gotta be better than grinding gear teeth.

Only yellow metal in that transmission is the reverse idler bushing and I wouldn’t worry about that. It really sounded like an issue with the tower at first. What’s your idle speed approximately?

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by duke36

Can you slide into 2nd when the car is at idle ?This is a long shot and may not be a solution but not sure what gear lube you are using. The modern 600 is really SAE 140 and when warmed up may not be viscous enough to slow the gears. Modern 1200w or 1500 has been discussed on other threads and is closer to the period orig. 600w.

Thank you Duke.Should have taken more notice of your suggestion in the first place. I really do believe it is the answer and I was just another sucker buying the "600w" Snyders and Brattons sell.I will find out for sure when the Meropa oil gets here and I get it in the transmission. I do know one thing the transmission will shift okay at cold startup but by the time I am ready to leave my driveway and on to the highway oil must be warmed up enough to allow gears to slow down enough to engage without grinding.