Harmonic Balancer

[old31]

When I had a generator I had more than enough room to play with the belt and easily install and remove it.

Now with this Powermaster because it is so wide it is a different ball game with a belt.

https://www.amazon.com/Powermaster-P...27076363&psc=1

[katy]

The info in your link shows that it is 8.4" in diameter, wow!

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by katy

The info in your link shows that it is 8.4" in diameter, wow!

I think that is the size of the box it comes in.

[Dave in MN]

I have one of the described dampening pulleys on my '31. To replace the belt, I need to remove the front spring bolt nuts and slide the u-bolts up and to the side to allow enough clearance between the front of the pulley to allow the belt to pass. After doing it once, it actually only takes about 15 minutes start to finish. It can be done on the road without any special tools or jack.

I have stock rear engine mounts so I know my engine is correctly located front to rear. I have a T-5 transmission installed and with the needed rear transmission cross support, it is not possible to raise the front of the engine easily when needing to replace the belt while on the road. The front lower edge of Murray's dampener is about 3/8" away from the front spring u-bolts and it is not possible to force a belt between. Removing the u-bolt nuts, lifting the u-bolts over the edge of the crank guide and up out of the cross-member while sliding them both to the side or completely out clears enough space to pass the belt between the dampener and the front cross-member. All this can be completed with the front of the car on the ground.
Good Day!

[old31]

Dave, what difference did you notice after you installed the balancer?

[old31]

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Originally Posted by katy

The info in your link shows that it is 8.4" in diameter, wow!

Katy the gen itself is 5-3/16. .. 5.1890

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by old31

Dave, what difference did you notice after you installed the balancer?

I installed it as part of a "B" engine build for a car I am building for touring. I have no bench mark to compare it to. That said, the engine runs strong and pretty smooth.
Good Day!

[Pete]

Normally adding a damper to either the front or rear of the engine you will NOT notice any difference in felt vibration. These things deal with TORSIONAL vibration from the rotating assembly, NOT the vibration you feel in the seat of the pants. That is a balancing problem.
Torsional vibration is what destroys cranks.

Modifying just about anything on an engine almost always has side effects.
It looks like Murray's damper has the advantage of still being able to change fan belts without raising the engine or loosening the spring U-bolts.

The damper's I have used for racing in the past were made from 8.5 inch diameter big block Chev dampers. They weigh 12 lb. In the case of dampers, bigger is better. They have the disadvantage (to some) of having to trim the front cross member to get them in though.

By the way, I never broke a crank when I was using one of those and it was spinning 6000 twice a lap.

[CarlG]

Pete:
I already have a dampener on the rear of my engine. Would I gain anything by putting one on the front as well?

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Pete:
I already have a dampener on the rear of my engine. Would I gain anything by putting one on the front as well?

As per Pete's explanation: Adding a dampener to the front of the engine would likely add to the service life of your crankshaft.

Dave

[katy]

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

I have one of the described dampening pulleys on my '31. To replace the belt, I need to remove the front spring bolt nuts and slide the u-bolts up and to the side to allow enough clearance between the front of the pulley to allow the belt to pass. After doing it once, it actually only takes about 15 minutes start to finish. It can be done on the road without any special tools or jack.

I have stock rear engine mounts so I know my engine is correctly located front to rear. I have a T-5 transmission installed and with the needed rear transmission cross support, it is not possible to raise the front of the engine easily when needing to replace the belt while on the road. The front lower edge of Murray's dampener is about 3/8" away from the front spring u-bolts and it is not possible to force a belt between. Removing the u-bolt nuts, lifting the u-bolts over the edge of the crank guide and up out of the cross-member while sliding them both to the side or completely out clears enough space to pass the belt between the dampener and the front cross-member. All this can be completed with the front of the car on the ground.
Good Day!

Have you considered a sectional belt as shown in post #8?

[Pete]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Pete:
I already have a dampener on the rear of my engine. Would I gain anything by putting one on the front as well?

Yes. A front one helps more than a rear one.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Pete

Yes. A front one helps more than a rear one.

Wasn't sure if putting both on there would conflict with each other.

[old31]

delete.

[old31]

Pete, Murray told me that I must raise the engine to change a belt.

Katy, I would buy a sectional belt as a spare.

This is the front engine mount that I have. With the generator that I have if it didnt work I would hate to have to send it back to New Zealand.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...etail/A-6030-B

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by katy

Have you considered a sectional belt as shown in post #8?

I would only consider it an option to get me back to a convenient spot to change the belt. I do not know enough about the sectional belt to trust it would give me long service life.
Maybe I need to do some research....
Good Day!

[wensum]

Surely the sectional belt is only carried in the unlikely but not unknown possibility of a broken fan belt? Then it enables roadside repairs until a normal fan-belt can be fitted in a workshop?

[The Master Cylinder]

I run a Power Twist Link Belt (sectional type) on my table saw. It has twin pulleys so two belts. It really runs smooth and cuts down on vibration. I see no reason why you could not run one all the time.

"The Power Twist Plus Link Belt is a high-performance V-belt that reduces vibration on table saws, drill presses, and other power tools by as much as 35%. It replaces the standard 1/2" V-belt on most machines, and the length can be adjusted by removing links. Whereas traditional drive belts can stretch and become misshapen (creating vibration as they rotate), the Power Twist belt is made up of interlocking segments of polyurethane elastomer and multiple plies of polyester fabric that retain their original shape, thereby reducing vibration. What's more, you can easily add or subtract links to get optimal tension on almost any machine!"