OT sand blaster question

[Standing Elk]

Anybody using one of the Harbor Freight sand blasters? If so how do they work? I am thinking about getting one to use on some of my A parts. Thanks

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I don't have one but I do have an opinion. The two key functions that make or break a media-blaster is the flow and the nozzle. There is a really fine line between having too small of a nozzle and too large of one. Too small and the tip is constantly plugging requiring you to stop and unplug. Too large of a nozzle wastes time and media as it does not have the velocity due to the hole being too big (--and the compressor not being able to maintain adequate CFM of air-flow). As with anything that I have experienced at H/F, their consumables are very cheaply made. Therefore if you put a tip in and 5 minutes later the aggregate has worn the hole too large due to a cheaply made nozzle, you will never be satisfied. Personally, I spend the money for the Carbide nozzles over the Ceramic nozzle for longevity, and you need to know there are great differences between Ceramic nozzle qualities. I personally would suggest you watch for a TiP manufactured blaster on eBay and purchase that, Then your expendables won't cost you an arm & leg, and you will have something worth selling when you are finished.

[Bob C]

Not sure which one you are looking at but there is a lot of information and
modifications on Youtube. Like Brent said by the time you get one to work
half a$$ you might as well get a good one.

Bob

[wrndln]

The quality of HF blast cabinets leaves a lot to be desired. After buying a cheesy HF blast cabinet, I think you will soon forget about the low price you paid for it and only remember its poor quality. About 5 years ago I was in the market for a smaller beadblasting cabinet. I checked out HF's cabinet and quickly rejected it. I ended up purchasing a USA made cabinet from TP Tools in Ohio. It was more expensive, but was a much, much better made cabinet and replacement parts like gloves, nozzles, plastic protective sheets for the window are available when needed, unlike the HF cabinet. I am attaching a picture of the top loading cabinet I bought. I really like the TP Tools USA made cabinet. One last suggestion - buy a foot feed on/off control. A hand on/off control will get old real fast and wear out your hand. Just my 2 cents.
Rusty Nelson

[pooch]

Gotta ask the question.

How many CFM and what pressure have you got?

[eagle]

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I've got their benchtop blaster and love it. Cabinet is very well made, door seals well. I put a light in it and a small shop vac to suck out the dust. I use glass beads.I also have a regular 30 gallon tank blaster from HF. The tips/nozzle and hoses that come with them are pretty much junk but I bought some good quality nozzles online and they fit right into the gun. I am very happy with it. You Must have a compressor with plenty of CFM.

[Russ/40]

The HF blast cabinet can be improved upon by using TP tools for your accessories. By changing to a TP gun and siphon tube there is a significant improvement. TP markets those components as an upgrade for import cabinets. I made other improvements also that made mine a good performer. In my opinion, I saved a bundle in so doing. I got my cabinet some time ago when it was on sale, and had better features. Moving the light into the cabinet was not a good idea in my opinion. Also it makes sense to make the window easily removable to replace the clear plastic glass protector. I also put a second air nozel in the cabinet to blow abrasive away from the door, to prevent it from ending up on the floor when opening the door. Little things that make the cabinet better. Im also thinking of making a small shaker to mount on the funnel where the media feeds to improve flow.

If I can save money and improve affordably with a little ingenuity, that is what I'll do.

To address the CFM question I run 16 CFM at 90 PSI

[Tom Wesenberg]

As Brent mentioned, the best way to save time and money is to buy a carbide nozzle.

[Dollar Bill]

I have one and it works OK for me but I don't use it very much. Like most everything from HF, it'll get the job done but if you use it a lot, it will likely frustrate you.

It's likely the first thing you notice after getting a blast cabinet is that your air compressor is inadequate. They use a lot of CFM.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Are we talking about Sand Blasters or Blasting Cabinets? Huge difference!!!

[wrndln]

Good point Brent. I think most of us just assumed the initial post was asking about blasting cabinets. I suspect, like you, the poster was really asking about just a sandblaster unit, not a blast cabinet. I have a USA made TP Tools 100# capacity pressure sandblaster. I love it! I have used it to blast all the parts for 3 model A's, including the frames, body parts and many other items. I have a real 5 HP 80 gallon Sanborn compressor and it just keeps up with pressure blasting. I agree that an important thing is to get a large enough compressor to sandblast. A pressure blaster requires a significantly large compressor, at least a real 5 HP unit. A 2, 3 or 4 HP unit just wont cut it, unless you want to wait all the time while the compressor rebuilds up pressure, which is quite aggravating. Now, if you are using a siphon feed blaster, which is much, much slower at removing rust and other crud than a pressure blaster, a less powerful compressor could be used. Just my experience.
Rusty Nelson

[Terry, NJ]

Good point, Brent! I just bought (8 mos ago) one of those pictured but I haven't used it yet. I don't like HF but it was on sale for something like $39. (?) I've wondered if I threw my money away.
Terry

[duke36]

Part of the discussion depends on one's space and area to blast parts, etc. The (smaller) cabinets are fine for smaller parts but usually wheels won't fit in them. We had a tank blaster many years ago in the shop and sold it due to the mess it created in limited space.

[Afordman31]

I have Tip cabinet and portable Tip unit. What I have found out if you are going to do wheels...the ones with spokes especially outside with the portable blaster the sand is really wasted because you have no way to reclaim it. The wheels on my Speedster I took to a regular sandblast place and blasted six wheels at the cost of $58.00 using their cabinet. The price was me blasting them. It took close to three hours for the six wheels. The price would have been higher if they had done it.

[Nathan_1929]

Lots of talk here about what you should'a done, but.... I have both a Harbor Freight cabinet and the outdoor blaster. Got the cabinet for super cheap from craigslist, and a friend gave me the pot.

Both work fine if you run a pressure regulator (at 90psi) and some in-line desiccant air driers.

More specifically, for the cabinet the only other thing I do is run a vacuum system on the vent so I can see better.

For the pot, I've found much better results by replacing all the cheap ball valves with something more heavy-duty. The pot is more sensitive to moisture, so I run a couple desiccant driers.

I have spent many, many hours behind the nozzle of both and the ceramic tips don't wear quite as quickly as others would have you believe.

I am almost entirely opposed to Harbor Freight, but.. these tools have more than paid for themselves.

[wrndln]

Speaking of pressure sandblasting. I am posting some pictures of the sandblasting components I now use. It took me some time to discover what works best for me. I have done a lot of sandblasting over the last 10 years on the 3 model A's I have restored/am restoring. I always do it outside in the spring, summer and fall. I spread out a real canvas tarp (16' x 20') and lay some sheets of plywood on the tarp. A pressure blaster will very quickly blast a hole in a tarp if there isn't anything to protect it (don't ask me how I know this). I can recover about 50% to 60% of the sand I blast, since the plywood and tarp catch most of the sand. I also surround the perimeter of the tarp/plywood with 4x4's, which blocks most of the sand from escaping and keeps it on the tarp.

I sandblast with a pair of coveralls on that mostly keeps the sand from getting into my pants, shirt, etc. I use a fresh air system to provide unadulterated air to me. I also switched the gun nozzle to a much better gate valve with a large ceramic tip. The gate valve makes your hand free of having to hold down the trigger, which gets old quickly. I have a 80 gallon 5 HP real compressor which just keeps up with the blasting. I can't find a picture of my 100# pressure blaster unit.
Rusty Nelson

[pooch]

I was a professional vehicle body blaster for 30 years.

Now retired but still doing my own cars.

I had one of those cheap pots and I made a gravity blaster out of a plastic bottle.

Did a lot of comparing and I much prefer the gravity blaster .

For portability, ease of filling, and ease of media to air tuning, and no blockages ever.

I reckon I only lost about 5 % efficiency with the gravity over the pressure system, so it was worth the trade off.

[Keith True]

I have a couple of those cheap red blasters that I've never used.i got them at an auction,they were returns as defective and sold for scrap.Both had the same problem,the sand had backfed through the lines and screwed up the ball valves.That can happen if the air gets cut off while blasting and the pressure in the tank tries to go out the feed line.I use a PK Lindsay 200 blaster,and right now I'm running it with a Dresser 125 compressor.I have run it with a Gordon Smith-A compressor,but it makes the engine labor too hard.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Standing Elk

Anybody using one of the Harbor Freight sand blasters? If so how do they work? I am thinking about getting one to use on some of my A parts. Thanks

Yes, I have used HF sandblast equipment , many years ago. I still have the same equipment. Talk about frugal !
I suppose that their 'modern' blasters are improved, as I don't recommend what I used. But, you do what you can, eh. My black HF container , with handle, held about 3 gallon of silicon sand. I use it 'out back' and inside my plywood 'deflectors' for walls and floor. Could gather stuff and re-use that way ! Hey , it worked for an entire '30 roadster re-do. No regrets , except wearing out my new 1hp Grainger compressor.

Needed a bigger compressor and a better breather/hood. I would still wear some sort of breather ....even if doing blasting inside of cabinet. Alternative is nasty...eventually !

[ronn]

fella on Killbillet talks about buying a HF blaster and the modifications he made.

xlnt thread on how to make a HF blaster work well.