2 core rad

[1930artdeco]

Hi All,


I got a 30 Rad for the frame and tanks as a spare part. Well it has the original oval type tubes (2 Core I found out) and it apparently hold water-YEAH!!!! After getting it cleaned up and out will it cool as well as modern 3 core rad? Or, should I have modern core installed. My guess is that it will flow more water than a thin tube core. I have a three core thin tube in there now which works fine. Like I said it is just a spare part. I think they came with 3 cores off the line correct.


Mike

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Hi All,


I got a 30 Rad for the frame and tanks as a spare part. Well it has the original oval type tubes (2 Core I found out) and it apparently hold water-YEAH!!!! After getting it cleaned up and out will it cool as well as modern 3 core rad? Or, should I have modern core installed. My guess is that it will flow more water than a thin tube core. I have a three core thin tube in there now which works fine. Like I said it is just a spare part. I think they came with 3 cores off the line correct.


Mike

The number of rows of tubes is only one of the factors to consider. How many fins does it have? A spare never goes astray and if all goes well, you’ll never need to find out how well it works.

[Mike V. Florida]

The original radiators 1930 through 1931 had 3 rows and 102 oblong tubes. Two rows might be a little light.

[DHZIEMAN]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Hi All,


I got a 30 Rad for the frame and tanks as a spare part. Well it has the original oval type tubes (2 Core I found out) and it apparently hold water-YEAH!!!! After getting it cleaned up and out will it cool as well as modern 3 core rad? Or, should I have modern core installed. My guess is that it will flow more water than a thin tube core. I have a three core thin tube in there now which works fine. Like I said it is just a spare part. I think they came with 3 cores off the line correct.


Mike

All years of Model A Fords came with three rows of tubes. The number of tubes varied as did the company that manufactured them for Ford. There were a lot of aftermarket radiators, not so good, in fact Sears had one that was two rows of tubes. The other factor is number of fins and how tight they are! Loose fins do not transfer heat as well. Just FYI!

[1930artdeco]

It is just a spare rad and I figured that two rows would not transfer as much heat. But, I was figuring on the oval tubes flowing more water than the thin tubes. I have not counted fins yet, but like Synchro said I hope to never have to use it.


Mike

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Someone put a cheap 2 row in my 29 Tudor, and it sent a quart of coolant out the overflow every 10 miles. I removed it right away and installed an original.

[Marshall V. Daut]

In the 1970's, hack companies selling inferior foreign-made Model A parts offered a two-row radiator in their catalogs at significantly lower prices than a three-row radiator. No warning about inferior cooling capabilities was mentioned. Model A people on a budget in their restorations naturally ordered the cheapest radiator possible - cash-strapped Self included. BIG MISTAKE! That two-row radiator wouldn't keep a Model A engine cool in northern Michigan during January in a blizzard. WORTHLESS!
The OP lives in Northern California. Even in the cooler northern part of the state, a two-row radiator will make life miserable for him and diminish the enjoyment of driving a Model A farther than a couple miles. The engine WILL boil over and if that doesn't ruin his paint, it will continually ruin his antique car experience. My advice to him? Toss that two-row radiator and buy a good three-row radiator from a reputable vendor, or go directly to the source, such as Berg's or Brassworks. You will not be happy otherwise. 'Been there, 'done that. Learn from the mistakes we cheapskates made when we were still learning about Model A's 40-50 years ago.
Marshall

[1930artdeco]

Like I said if I need to use it, it will be just for the tanks and strap. I will have a 3 core installed when I need to. Thanks for confirming what I thought.


Mike

[Al 29Tudor]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Someone put a cheap 2 row in my 29 Tudor, and it sent a quart of coolant out the overflow every 10 miles. I removed it right away and installed an original.

Thank you Tom.
I've been struggling with loosing coolant for a long time and just realized I have a two core radiator. You described exactly what happens. I've been trying to figure out if the pump pushes too much coolant or is it clogged.
I can have it re-cored with three rows, ten fins per inch and now even the fins are louvered. You confirmed what the problem is.
Al

[Bob-A]

My '31 roadster has some older after market 2 tube radiator that came in it when I bought it. I don't put a lot of miles on the car, but I've never had a radiator problem with it. And it does get plenty hot here in Florida. In fact the only problem I have with it. Is that the happiest the radiator likes the top tank water level is just below where the core is soldiered to the top tank! It drives me crazy because I will check the level and add enough water so I can see it. Go for my drive/trip and then the next time I check it. I'll have to add some water, maybe an ounce or two, again to be able to see it in the top tank of the radiator. I run a real nice original Moto-Meter on it and the thermometer level barely moves. Go figure.. I always keep an extra gallon of water with me. So maybe I won't add any water for a while and see what happens. It is either spitting out what it does not want. Which I have seen evidence of or ...........?


Bob-A

[old31]

Originally Posted by Al 29Tudor

Thank you Tom.
I've been struggling with loosing coolant for a long time and just realized I have a two core radiator. You described exactly what happens. I've been trying to figure out if the pump pushes too much coolant or is it clogged.
I can have it re-cored with three rows, ten fins per inch and now even the fins are louvered. You confirmed what the problem is.
Al

Al, what is the cost for having the radiator reworked as you said?

[brokenspoke]

FYI radiators have ONE core...and 2-3-4 rows of fins

[Hoogah]

Originally Posted by brokenspoke

FYI radiators have ONE core...and 2-3-4 rows of fins

FYI you mean tubes!!

[Hoogah]

Originally Posted by Al 29Tudor

Thank you Tom.
I've been struggling with loosing coolant for a long time and just realized I have a two core radiator. You described exactly what happens. I've been trying to figure out if the pump pushes too much coolant or is it clogged.
I can have it re-cored with three rows, ten fins per inch and now even the fins are louvered. You confirmed what the problem is.
Al

Getting a radiator recored is expensive. Just doing it now with a 4-row (because I plan on towing a small teardrop camper down the track) and I reckon it’s going to cost me over AUD1000. Haven’t got a bill yet. However, this is still cheaper than buying a new repro.

If you’re not having overheating problems, maybe you don’t need to do anything. It could be that you’re just pushing out excess water until the rad finds a sustainable level. A cheaper way to reduce the overflow might also be to grind back the water pump vanes or even replace your pump with a modern one that has smaller vanes.

[Al 29Tudor]

Originally Posted by old31

Al, what is the cost for having the radiator reworked as you said?

It will cost $635 which includes tax and no shipping because it's a local shop.
Al

[Roger V]

I'm curious as to where the terms "two, three, or four core" radiators started from? As mentioned typical radiators have one core with rows of tubes. Seems like simple logic. I do see this misnomer a lot in street rod references.

[brokenspoke]

I was wondering if anyone would catch that Hoogah….good eye

[Bob-A]

In my earlier message I meant to say 2 row (as in 2 rows of tubes) and not 2 tube. One of those pesky senior moments, again.



Bob-A

[Corley]

Rows, cores, tubes, blah! You "younger" old farts that still have 90% of your brain cells need to give us "older" old farts with only 80% of our brain cells still in operation a break, and not get hung up on terminology, when you actually know what was meant!

Me, I'm still trying to function on only 70% of said matter! ( Finally building the T bucket I've always said I wanted to build. I'm sure that makes me certifiable!)

[Marshall V. Daut]

The difference in weight between the two tube (a "two core" in car slang) and three tube ("three core") radiators is quite noticeable. One doesn't even need to look between the fins to count the tubes: just lift the radiator. If it lifts easily, it's a two tube. If it strains a little to lift it, it's a three tube. Of course, one must allow for various strengths among owners, but you get the message. Yeah, the three tube is that much more substantial, not only in weight, but in efficiency. Just imagine how that translates into cooling capability because a three tube core will hold more water while it cools before returning to the engine block. In a two tube radiator core, hot water goes back into the engine block before the air, fins and tubes can do their thing and cool it down sufficiently. Sending hot water back into the block will just cause the engine to boil over easily, especially on a hot day, at sustained driving speeds or under a load. If you can convince yourself that your Model A will never function under any of those three conditions, then the two row radiator was meant for you. But for the other 99% of Model A owners, running a two row/two core radiator is just not worth the risk. 50 years later and I'm still mad about that worthless J.C. Whitney radiator I bought new from their catalog. I spent more time sitting beside the road waiting for the engine to cool down than I did driving! (almost!) Buying a good, strong and efficient three tube radiator is the best thing you can do for yourself and your Model A.
Marshall