Zero compression #3 Cylinder

[Railcarmover]

With everything else you've noticed,pull and replace head studs,seat the studs in the block with modern quality silicone sealant to stop the water migrating up the studs and rusting to the head stud bores.

[DHZIEMAN]

Originally Posted by Baypac

Well I got the head off after a lot of work and moving my cherry picker around. Starting the engine to pop the head worked perfectly, however there was a lot of rust on the studs through the water outlet. Finally had to put wedges between the block and the head and a hydraulic jack under the water pump.

Found a major water leak that looked like a warped head problem between #2 and #3 cylinders. Engine restoration job was good. Hardened valve seats, adjustable lifters, and thread release on all the studs. The water ran down the exhaust valve for #2 cylinder and caused some rust on the spring. I am not certain if I need to be concerned about it. Any thoughts?

While the head is off, make sure the valves are all opening and closing properly and sealing when closed. Zero Psi compression needs to be understood completely here, before the head goes back on. Also, make sure the block is flat along with the head. Just FYI!

[Baypac]

Thanks again for your suggestions. Everything seems to check out. Just waiting for the spring compressor to change out the valve spring. Two have rust, should I change all 8 or just the ones with rust.

Jack

[Baypac]

Originally Posted by Railcarmover

With everything else you've noticed,pull and replace head studs,seat the studs in the block with modern quality silicone sealant to stop the water migrating up the studs and rusting to the head stud bores.

Thanks, will do. I used a Permatex aluminum anti seize on the studs. There is a little welt at each of the head studs, do I need to remove it before using the silicone?

[100IH]

Welt, there you go. Throw your Silicone away. Only good for gasket-less coolant outlet (gooseneck). Use copper coat spray.

[Baypac]

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The engine all came together yesterday. Torqued the head studs using the sequence suggested by Brumfield for my High Compression head. 20 ft lbs to start, 40 ft lbs second time, 60 ft lbs third time, and then reversed the sequence at 60 ft lbs. Started the engine and let it heat for 45 minutes, then shut it down over night until it was cool. Torqued all the studs at 60 ft lb this morning.

Took it for a 3 mile test run this am, finally eliminated leaks at both ends of the sediment bowl to carb gas line, and a problem with the carb float or float valve that caused leaking gas from the body.

I pulled the plugs, and checked the compression once the engine cooled down enough to avoid burns.

#1 65 psi
#2 60 psi
#3 60 psi
#4 65 psi.

The plugs looked better than when I first opened the engine, because it had been running very rich and there was a lot of carbon on the plugs. I still need to fiddle with the timing/fuel mix to get a smoother idle, but it is firing on all 4 cylinders for the first time in a number of years. Both #2 and #3 had water leaking through the valve, so the lower compression at this stage is not a surprise. I replaced the rusty spring on the #2 exhaust valve.

I am looking forward to see how it performs when I run it for 1 or two hours at speed.

[40 Deluxe]

As far as "fiddling" with the timing, that is only done with the spark lever, as you drive. Once you set the initial, or base, timing per Ford's instructions, it will never change as long as the point gap is properly set (or the timing gears wear out). I find it rather humorous how some will spend hours trying to set base timing to a gnat's eyebrow, then start the engine and pull the spark lever down to a "whatever, that sounds about right" position and drive off. They have just undone all that time and effort they just put into "setting the timing"!

[Baypac]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

As far as "fiddling" with the timing, that is only done with the spark lever, as you drive. Once you set the initial, or base, timing per Ford's instructions, it will never change as long as the point gap is properly set (or the timing gears wear out). I find it rather humorous how some will spend hours trying to set base timing to a gnat's eyebrow, then start the engine and pull the spark lever down to a "whatever, that sounds about right" position and drive off. They have just undone all that time and effort they just put into "setting the timing"!

Thanks, I agree. "Fiddling" to me means to recheck the timing because I had to loosen the distributor set screw to get rid of a noise per Les Andrews suggestions. I used a repo distributor body. I have a good original that I will test to see if it makes a difference with the idle. I have a distributor cam with a profile that slightly increases the dwell time and need need to fine tune the throttle screw and jets to get a smooth idle without loping.

Also, the prior owner had switched to a modern points distributor and I move back to original.