Crank but no go.

[Beauford]

Ok...back at it. You solved my ground issue. I crank the starter fully retarded, GAV out 1/2 turn and not even a burp. I believe I have timed it correctly. I have 6v at battery, coil (both sides) spark at coil wire, points spark. I did open drain plug on carb and no fuel so took new carb off and blew air through it. Reinstalled and now gas in bowl. Still nothing. I'm guessing my timing is not correct. Battery back on charger from all those starts. Last day of vacation and really want to test drive this chassis!!! Also, I have all wiring on a make shift wooden dash so no shorting issues.

[txkhog]

Do you have spark. Timing not important if you do not have spark to plugs.

[Keith True]

So do you also have spark now at the plugs?Spark at the points and coil wire are the first two checks,now you need to do the third.Spark at the plugs.You say you blew the carb out,did you take it apart and blow out the passages?If you just blew through the openings the junk will just move around and settle somewhere else.Put a pan under the carb,take out the drain plug,and watch the fuel run out for a minute.A whole minute,not just 15 seconds.If it stays steady you should be OK.Put your hand over the carb mouth while cranking for a second,if it doesn't try to suck your hand in you will most likely find mice have moved into the muffler.

[old31]

You mentioned new carb. You might have fuel in the bowl but is the float adjusted properly to keep the fuel flowing?

[Beauford]

What would cause no spark at plugs if all the rest is ok? How can I check.

[Keith True]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Bad rotor,bad cap,bad contact connections,rotor not turning.Take the plugs out,lay them against bare metal,like the top of the head studs,hook the brass clips on and crank it over.Make sure the studs are truly bare,no paint of rust on them.Spin it over a bunch and make sure the spark is consistent.A regular occurring snap,not just every so often.

[Beauford]

Keith all that is new so I will give the plugs a try and see if I get spark. Thanks so much.

[Art Newland]

I started up a very tight engine earlier this year, It would just barely crank. I did cheat a little and use some starting fluid to get the first pops out of it. You don't want to use starting fluid unless you are absolutely sure the timing is correct, it's very volatile and can produce severe backfire/carb damage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ul8-IzIZ8kA

[Beauford]

Art its is a completely rebuilt engine. I know once she goes it will puuuurrrr

[Beauford]

Art that is a awesome video! Nice sounding engine!

[Dick Steinkamp]

Did you pull the choke out for a couple of seconds while cranking?

[Beauford]

Yes Dick I pulled it out but as suspected above it's electrical. No spark on plugs. Here is a pic of cap. Not sure.

[lindy williams]

Just because parts are new doenn't mean that they work.

[Beauford]

lindy...I can x2 that so far...especially the one I bought from a big vendor in the early stages as I had zero idea who to deal with...live and learn

[RawhideKid]

How about making sure that the shielded cable wire is connected to +coil terminal, which is what happens through the ignition switch.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by RawhideKid

How about making sure that the shielded cable wire is connected to +coil terminal, which is what happens through the ignition switch.

From what i read so far he has a good strong spark from the coil wire to a good ground but not at the plugs...

[Beauford]

Correct Mitch..just need plugs to spark.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Beauford

Correct Mitch..just need plugs to spark.

Did you ground the spark plug base when checking? ? Did you check them all??
If nothing prob a bad burned through rotor...

Usually with a bad dist body you would have spark at some

[SeaSlugs]

Do you have the rotor to body gap set correctly? got another body to try?

[denniskliesen]

Take a test light and put it on the points when they are open with the key on.

[Beauford]

Well, done for the day....week, month...was checking suction on carb which was great and all of a sudden the ampmeter decided to melt. Time to start from scratch. Same wiring configuration as last motor that I got running as I kept it all together when I took it off. Thanks for all the replies, I'm just engine challenged. %$##@@%%!!

[cpf240]

The ammeter can be bypassed.

[Beauford]

Why did that happen????? I know because I'm a idiot but really?

[1955cj5]

If it were me I would start at the battery and re-check the wire routing and all the connections.

Just because you may have checked it twice doesn't mean you won't find something the third time...

[Mitch//pa]

How about posting some pics of your set up

[Tom Wesenberg]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Mitch just beat me to it. I was going to ask for the same thing. It sounds like you are trying to test run the chassis with no body. Show a picture of the whole car or chassis, then a few pictures of the ammeter and coil, etc. A melt down at the ammeter can be a short causing high amp draw, or a poor connection causing high resistance and heat.

[Beauford]

Sorry...took it all apart. Disconnected battery/wiring and chassis back in garage. Didn't want a house fire. I ordered another amp meter and cap...I have a spare unused wiring harness. There was smoke from gen as well....probably fried. I had a fuse on first motor but the cheap thing broke.Ordered another....as PT Barnum says....

[Mitch//pa]

What about the rotor

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, a new rotor would be my first check.

There should be no power beyond the cutout if the engine isn't running. So was the smoke at the cutout, or at the generator? One of the two must have a short to have made smoke. Make sure the cutout has both of it's insulators, and make sure the two mounting screws and two terminal screws aren't too long and causing shorts.

[Beauford]

Its a little jumbled now but just something to get the jest....exactly the way it was as far as wires. has to be something fudged up...dont mind fried cables from amp. Also, fuse is worthless...just on there when I had it attached to starter on last motor. Let me know if you need better or specific pics. I've calmed down a bit now.

[Beauford]

also..I made sure none of these items were touching each other grounding out. Don't mind little ground strap next to battery. It was too short to use.

[Art Newland]

Maybe just go simple on the wiring until you get it running. This is all you need.

[Beauford]

Art...that looks pretty old! Guess they made them well back then. This bucket came with almost nothing. Zero wires for sure!

[Mitch//pa]

You sure the junction box did not ground on something.....

You really should mount everything instead of letting it all flop around..i use the dash panel with everything attached.. mounted to the wood

Your braided ground cable is in the wrong hole on the frame, could that be why its to short?
It also seems like its mounted on top of paint with a rusty bolt..

Your replacement temp ground cable is for a 12v car which is about a 4 gauge

Looks good otherwise. Have a wheaties beer or four

[Beauford]

what hole does the braid go on? It was all mounted until I didnt want the car to melt. just put it back up for wiring reference. I dont get it.

Haven't had a wheaties in years but it sure makes me want one but then I would have 10, get the chassis started and get a DUI on a Model A frame...classic newspaper stuff!

[JDupuis]

Beauford, the last picture of your cut-out. Is the yellow and black wire connection touching the cut-out body? I can't quite tell from the picture. The rubber washer should be against the cut-out housing first, then your wire connector then bolt and washer. I hope this helps. Jeff

[Beauford]

JDupuis...it's actually just laying in that pic but you know...I f'ed up and did not have it that way...is gen fried now? Thanks so much and would that cause my melt down?

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by Beauford

what hole does the braid go on? ...

I believe it should go on the face of the crossmember, between the battery and the crossmember...

[Beauford]

Also, judging from the holes in my shirt and pants I would assume my battery is toast from when the dog knocked it off the stand. I believe battery acid ate my clothes. It reads 6v but should I trust that?? I think I will purchase another.....

[Beauford]

Originally Posted by cpf240

I believe it should go on the face of the crossmember, between the battery and the crossmember...

Thanks CP...I'll look for a hole now.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Charge the battery on 3 to 6 amps for about 8 hours, then have it load tested, rather than guess and buying a new one.
The fuse mount should be on top of the starter switch body, not under the lip of the switch.
Is the large fuse stud touching ground?
Does the cutout have an insulating washer on the side where the generator power connects?

[Beauford]

I got it tested yesterday and they said it was ok.....

I dont see where the fuse would mount on top?

Yes, the cutout does have that washer and I am certain it was not put on correctly by me. It is corrected now.

How do I bypass amp?

Thanks, Tom!

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by Beauford

...How do I bypass amp? ...

The ammeter is just measuring the current flowing through it. You can just connect all the wires that went to the two terminals together to bypass it.

[Beauford]

Thanks CP!!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Just remove the two screws holding the fuse, then slide the fuse bracket from under the switch and lay it on top of the switch, then reinstall the two screws.

BTW, are those the screws that came with the fuse?
I thought the fuse came with slotted screws/

[Jacksonlll]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Go to YouTube and search for ignition 101 for the model a. May help you a bit.

[Beauford]

Tom...it came with no screws.

Jack, I will take a peep. Thanks

[katy]

Here is a pic of cap.

The item shown in your pic is the rotor, not the cap. Look at it closely, sometimes they short out from the top metal down through to where it fits on the shaft.

In #18 Mitch said: "If nothing prob a bad burned through rotor..."

[Beauford]

Katy...the rotor looks good.

[Mitch//pa]

You cant usually tell by looking at it.
Burns through the Bakelite which causes the spark to ground on the dist shaft...

[Beauford]

Ordered a new one