Questions before a "first" start

[Poager]

Hello all,
I'm happy to be the new owner of a '30 Model A. It has been sitting for the last decade or so. All the fluids were left in it. After disconnecting the old radiator hoses, I have found a lot of corrosion/rust around the coolant inlet and outlet on the head.

I've ordered a new 2-blade fan, water pump, radiator hoses, and temperature gauge. Needless to say, I am overly anxious to fire the old girl up.

My question is; how concerned should I be about the rust?

I've read many opinions. Some say you shouldn't disturb years of rust. Others say to soak in vinegar and flush as best as possible...use a stocking to catch debris from making its way into the radiator...etc.

Should I be resisting the urge to slap the new parts on and get on the road?
What concerns should I have about starting the "A" up after all these years?

I appreciate any input from you folks. Thanks in advance!

[Bob C]

I think we need a little more information. Was this a car that was restored or the so called barn find. If it's been sitting a long time you might want to drop the pan and clean it out before starting the engine.

Bob

[SeaSlugs]

yea you need to change the oil in the engine, grease every lube point, change fluids in trans and rearend, and check steering box.

[colin1928]

Do everything possible to remove the rust before it can block your radiator
then filter with a stocking in the top hose

[Mitch//pa]

Run the car with a pvc pipe exiting over the front end so crap does not go into the rad. Keep fresh water entering the rad fill .

Loosen the lower oil pipe bolt you should see oil leakage after a min or so proving you have oil pressure

[Mike V. Florida]

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I made fittings that go on the hoses and hook up to garden hoses. I push the water through the engine and out the hose from the top of the engine to the bottom, and the radiator from the bottom to the top. This will clean out a lot of junk.

Flush the radiator/engine with the solution of your choice and flush again.

Now for your statement "Should I be resisting the urge to slap the new parts on and get on the road?". Well yes and no, replace only what is not working and leave everything else alone until it breaks.

[Poager]

Thank you all for the helpful responses.

The car was restored ~15 years ago. It's had probably less than 400 miles put on it since the restoration, then it sat for a long period of time.

I drained the oil. I had plans of dropping the pan, however the oil looked brand new. Was still see-through and didn't see any signs of sludge.

I have not touched the trans, rear end or steering box fluids. I will be sure to do this.

Mike - I have seen Youtube videos with the fittings that have garden hose and air compressor fittings. This seems like a useful tool for flushing.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Poager

Thank you all for the helpful responses.

The car was restored ~15 years ago. It's had probably less than 400 miles put on it since the restoration, then it sat for a long period of time.

I drained the oil. I had plans of dropping the pan, however the oil looked brand new. Was still see-through and didn't see any signs of sludge.

I have not touched the trans, rear end or steering box fluids. I will be sure to do this.

Mike - I have seen Youtube videos with the fittings that have garden hose and air compressor fittings. This seems like a useful tool for flushing.

yea at least check the fluids - you never know what the previous owner did. one mans restoration is taking a part down to its bare components checking and replacing worn parts; other is cleaning up worn parts, painting them and slapping it all back together so it looks pretty.

[Poager]

I hear you Slugs. I'll check the remaining fluid out. Really appreciate the guidance, I can't wait to get it roadworthy!

The car actually belonged to me granddad. He did a "ground up" restore starting in the early 90's. Unfortunately, after he passed the car sat for quite a while until my dad recently gave it to me.

For the most part it is still in good shape. My biggest concern is that water sitting in the radiator and head for so long. :/

[Brentwood Bob]

the return pipefrom the radiator to the block can corrode and needs to be checked to see it is clear.
behind #4 cylinder the water jacket can get blocked with rust.
Follow post #5, and #6.
Did grand dad run the car, or did it have 0 miles after the restoration?
Bob

[H. L. Chauvin]

Lots of good advice from varied past experiences is always helpful.

I have learned that after 10 years of any vehicle not running, lots might happen and lots might not happen, depending many times on shear luck.

Everything unseen internally really becomes true guess work.

Lots depends on in-storage humidity conditions, drastic changes in temperature and humidity, mice and rats, unsupervised children playing with the car, and/or the last owner not remembering or not completing a task he may have started and never finished.

With luck, it is possible one could jump in and drive from California to New York with no problems; and also without luck, possible one could jump in, drive down the road 300 yards and have to call a tow truck to get it back home.

Never a bad idea to investigate -- my last one sat in storage for 20 years -- glad I thoroughly investigated everything prior to hitting the road.

Not much help, but if I told you everything should be great and it is not, I would feel responsible for giving poor advice.

For example, with water in engine, a head gasket can leak ever so slightly over 10 years, and cause rings to rust; bottom side of cam can become pitted with rust; valves could become sticky causing ferocious backfiring, etc., etc.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I would think the pan is free of sludge since it only has a few miles after it was restored. I'd leave the pan on, but remove the inlet and outlet hoses. Adding compressed air to the water flow will help to loosen and flush out crud.

[CWilson]

Pictures of your new ride please!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I would think the pan is free of sludge since it only has a few miles after it was restored. I'd leave the pan on, but remove the inlet and outlet hoses. Adding compressed air to the water flow will help to loosen and flush out crud.

Chuck worked on a Model A that had sat for awhile. ALL fluids "looked" good, but when he pulled the pan, the oil pump screen had a "coating" on it, that looked like you cut a circle from a paper towel, soaked it in water, & "stuck" it on the screen
"Maybe" the covering was caused by a bit of water in the very bottom of the pan??? It DIDN'T look RUSTY.
Bill W.

[Poager]

Brentwood Bob - I forgot to list the return pipe from the radiator, I did buy a new one along with the other various parts cooling parts.

Sounds like I'm going to get creative with the old radiator hose and try to mock up a garden hose/air compressor to try and flush the engine to the best of my ability. I'll let it soak in vinegar first and flush it a couple times. Then put a stocking on the top radiator hose when it gets put back together.

Really hoping the cooling system will be up to par after this. We've already hit the +100 degree temps in AZ but I won't mind sweating while driving as long as the car is happy.

I'll try to post some pics up shortly.

[Bruskie]

open the windshield you get real good air flow

[Slowplane]

I wouldn't hesitate to pull the radiator for a more thorough cleaning, if I had any doubts after cleaning it while in place. A bit of labor now may keep you off the flatbed at an less convenient time.

[Brentwood Bob]

Consider removing the casting for the return to the block on the drivers side and probing to loosen scale. You will be surprised at what comes out. I have tried both air pressure, and a pressure washer. Be sure the upper hose is removed prior to this operation.
This not as effective as probing with the head removed, but would be worth your while.
There is also a technique for the vinegar soak where a slight bubbling of compressed air introduced thru the side inlet helps agitate. Probably not a substitute for running the motor at operating temperature, but I made up a rube goldberg flushing apparatus that allows me to pressurize the block when I back flush.
I don't think the vinegar would be good for any painted surface either.
I used this to track down a cooling problem that eventually lead to finding a cracked block when I finally pulled the head.
Good weed control as a side benefit too.
Bob

[Tinbasher]

Check and clean the points, plugs and wire leads. Change the fluids. Fresh gas and Battery. Clean the battery connections. And give her a go. If the cars fires up and runs let it run for a few minutes to get warmed up to running temp. Then shut it down. Call this the first step. Then check over the running gear and brakes. Make sure everything is lubed and working. I'd pull a wheel and drum off and see what you've got. If everything is in good shape then your ready for a run around the block. Let us know how you make out.

John Poole, The Old Tinbasher