The Ford Barn

Roger W Gerow · 01-26-2018, 03:09 PM

Tried the search forum and came up empty'. I need to remove the ignition switch on my 1951 coupe without damaging anything. Requesting any and all suggestions.

rotorwrench · 01-26-2018, 03:36 PM

The 1951 ford cars, except station wagons, had a one year only switch so I'm not sure about it. Most of my experience is with Mercury cars and pickups for 1951 and most all Ford products in 1951 had a twist & lock type switch assembly with a large spring to keep it secure. The bezel on the panel is incorporated into this installation as the part that the spring loaded switch engages when installed. Hold the bezel as best you can while pushing against the switch at the terminal end toward the bezel and then rotate the switch body one quarter turn CCW. You can also rotate the bezel the the opposite direction but it may be harder to get a hold on it without damaging the edges. I hope this helps but I just can't say for sure that the 1951 Ford cars comes out this way.

V8 Bob · 01-26-2018, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roger W Gerow

Tried the search forum and came up empty'. I need to remove the ignition switch on my 1951 coupe without damaging anything. Requesting any and all suggestions.

Remove the front mounting nut, then remove the switch from the rear.
Might be time to purchase a '49-'51 shop manual.

tubman · 01-26-2018, 06:47 PM

I've removed mine several times. The information supplied is mostly correct. Hold it from the back against the spring pressure, and then turn the inside plastic part (counterclockwise, I think) and it should come apart. It's been a while since I've taken mine apart, so if you still have a question, I can go to my shop and "freshen up" my memory. Let me know if you need more information.

V8 Bob · 01-27-2018, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubman

I've removed mine several times. The information supplied is mostly correct. Hold it from the back against the spring pressure, and then turn the inside plastic part (counterclockwise, I think) and it should come apart. It's been a while since I've taken mine apart, so if you still have a question, I can go to my shop and "freshen up" my memory. Let me know if you need more information.

My answer is almost word for word from the shop manual.

Roger W Gerow · 01-27-2018, 02:53 PM

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Thanks for your information. Will give it a try.

tubman · 01-27-2018, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

My answer is almost word for word from the shop manual.

I'll still stick with "almost correct". First, the piece to be removed from the front is not a nut; it's not metal and it doesn't unscrew like a regular nut. I would call it more of a plastic cam-lock device that's removed with about a quarter turn. Also, it's nice to know about the spring loading from the back; pushing the switch forward against the spring makes it easier to get apart. I would also advise taking extra care when disassembling it because the locking device is made of plastic. I'm afraid I'm going to break one of the ears off of it. Old plastic ain't as strong as old metal.

rotorwrench · 01-27-2018, 06:21 PM

Some of the old shop manuals had some things to be desired. The Lincoln/Mercury overhaul manual for 1949 thru 51 is pretty decent but I haven't purchased one for the shoe box Fords yet. Even in the L&M manual they have illustrations of where electrical wiring goes but they don't have a plain diagram with all the color and tracer colors for the circuits. I figure FoMoCo must have had separate wiring manuals for that but I haven't seen one yet. At least they started to get away from placing everything in service bulletins in that time frame. I had to purchase one of the laminated diagrams from a guy on flea-pay and I've since found a few flaws in it too.

Just to add: C&G lists a B9S-11580-A bezel, inner that was evidently used as a replacement for all the ones from somewhere in 1959 clear back to 1951. The 1951 shows to have a unique outer bezel that is used for most of the other dash controls as well. I guess that's what makes the 51 unique is the inset double bezel set up. The 49 & 50 models just had a plain bezel and used a wave spring on the ignition switch. The 51 was the first of the Ford cars to use a coil spring to apply tension. With the inset bezel, it might be a bear to get a hold of without damaging it. Especially if the damn thing is plastic.

V8 Bob · 01-27-2018, 08:09 PM

I'll admit shop manuals can sometimes be vague, but they were made for mechanics, so additional "expertise" can sometimes be expected. I don't remember any real issues when I removed my '51 switch after I visited the shop manual, but it's been a few years.

tubman · 01-27-2018, 09:18 PM

There really are no issues; it's not a difficult task. It's just that I recommend caution because of the plastic piece. I just don't trust almost 70 year old plastic parts. After looking for years, I finally found another plastic piece, so now it won't break.

Planojc · 01-28-2018, 09:36 AM

Tubman has the correct answer to your question. You may want to disconnect the battery also because there is power to the switch.

01-26-2018, 03:09 PM	#1
Roger W Gerow Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Walla Walla, Washington Posts: 182	Ignition Switch 1951 Ford Tried the search forum and came up empty'. I need to remove the ignition switch on my 1951 coupe without damaging anything. Requesting any and all suggestions. __________________ DD658

01-26-2018, 03:36 PM	#2
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,422	Re: Ignition Switch 1951 Ford The 1951 ford cars, except station wagons, had a one year only switch so I'm not sure about it. Most of my experience is with Mercury cars and pickups for 1951 and most all Ford products in 1951 had a twist & lock type switch assembly with a large spring to keep it secure. The bezel on the panel is incorporated into this installation as the part that the spring loaded switch engages when installed. Hold the bezel as best you can while pushing against the switch at the terminal end toward the bezel and then rotate the switch body one quarter turn CCW. You can also rotate the bezel the the opposite direction but it may be harder to get a hold on it without damaging the edges. I hope this helps but I just can't say for sure that the 1951 Ford cars comes out this way. Last edited by rotorwrench; 01-26-2018 at 03:49 PM.

01-26-2018, 06:47 PM	#4
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,303	Re: Ignition Switch 1951 Ford I've removed mine several times. The information supplied is mostly correct. Hold it from the back against the spring pressure, and then turn the inside plastic part (counterclockwise, I think) and it should come apart. It's been a while since I've taken mine apart, so if you still have a question, I can go to my shop and "freshen up" my memory. Let me know if you need more information.

01-27-2018, 02:53 PM	#6
Roger W Gerow Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Walla Walla, Washington Posts: 182	Re: Ignition Switch 1951 Ford Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks for your information. Will give it a try. __________________ DD658

01-27-2018, 06:21 PM	#8
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,422	Re: Ignition Switch 1951 Ford Some of the old shop manuals had some things to be desired. The Lincoln/Mercury overhaul manual for 1949 thru 51 is pretty decent but I haven't purchased one for the shoe box Fords yet. Even in the L&M manual they have illustrations of where electrical wiring goes but they don't have a plain diagram with all the color and tracer colors for the circuits. I figure FoMoCo must have had separate wiring manuals for that but I haven't seen one yet. At least they started to get away from placing everything in service bulletins in that time frame. I had to purchase one of the laminated diagrams from a guy on flea-pay and I've since found a few flaws in it too. Just to add: C&G lists a B9S-11580-A bezel, inner that was evidently used as a replacement for all the ones from somewhere in 1959 clear back to 1951. The 1951 shows to have a unique outer bezel that is used for most of the other dash controls as well. I guess that's what makes the 51 unique is the inset double bezel set up. The 49 & 50 models just had a plain bezel and used a wave spring on the ignition switch. The 51 was the first of the Ford cars to use a coil spring to apply tension. With the inset bezel, it might be a bear to get a hold of without damaging it. Especially if the damn thing is plastic. Last edited by rotorwrench; 01-27-2018 at 06:52 PM.

01-27-2018, 08:09 PM	#9
V8 Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granger (Northern) Indiana Posts: 1,520	Re: Ignition Switch 1951 Ford I'll admit shop manuals can sometimes be vague, but they were made for mechanics, so additional "expertise" can sometimes be expected. I don't remember any real issues when I removed my '51 switch after I visited the shop manual, but it's been a few years.

01-27-2018, 09:18 PM	#10
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,303	Re: Ignition Switch 1951 Ford There really are no issues; it's not a difficult task. It's just that I recommend caution because of the plastic piece. I just don't trust almost 70 year old plastic parts. After looking for years, I finally found another plastic piece, so now it won't break.

01-28-2018, 09:36 AM	#11
Planojc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Plano, Texas Posts: 840	Re: Ignition Switch 1951 Ford Tubman has the correct answer to your question. You may want to disconnect the battery also because there is power to the switch.