head puller

[Lawrie]

I had a request to post a pic of my head puller tool.
this looks like a ford tool and works good.
Lawrie

[glennsanders]

Can you show how to use it Please

[Talkwrench]

That's interesting Lawrie, yes show us how it works..

[Lawrie]

the tool on the left hand side of the pic is sort of how its goes,you screw two of the long studs into the spark plug threads,then slip the bar over it,the bar has a fixed leg on one end and an adjustable one on the other end,these you line up with the head studs,then slip the large washer over the bar,followed by the nut,and just wind the nut down,this pulls the head up.
Lawrie

[BILL WZOREK]

Are you turning the ones in the spark plug holes to lift the head or are those put in snug and you push against the heads studs ?

[trainguy]

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It looks like you are pulling on the spark plug threads! Appears risky

[rotorwrench]

Several folks on tha HAMB have made spark plug type head pullers using angle, channel, or just a thick piece of steel bar stock to do the pushing. They just hollow out the old spark plugs and weld in long bolts to do the pulling.

[carguybill]

Lawrie, thanks very much for posting the photo. The design of this tool implies to me that it is a universal tool designed to be used on many head configurations. I think that this design would be relatively easy to duplicate.

I wonder if the original set had 4 crossbars to go along with the 4 studs. It would seem to me that pulling on all 4 plug holes at the same time would minimize the possibility of pulling out the sparkplug hole threads or warping the heads particularly with stock aluminum heads like I have on my '34.

As you said on my earlier thread: . . . maybe you could make a plate up the fits over the head and mounts off the 4 plug threads.and drill and tap some jacking bolts onto the studs, the heads are going to be toast any way. (Emphasis is mine)

The possibility of "toasting" the heads is exactly why I'm proceeding with great caution. In the current V8 Times I see that the 33 - 36 aluminum 21 stud heads have been reproduced, that's great news but the $1800 per set cost is what I would like to avoid if possible.

[Lawrie]

Well you guys could be the winners from our low Australian $$,there is a guy here who makes them,$1000 au per set.
let me know if you want a set.

The four studs are for different plug sizes,two for the 18mm and two for the 14 mm

Dont do what a mate did on his 39 last week,he used a chisel and wedges to drive in under the alloy heads,bent valves buggered the block,(a good 59 block with a 4in crank and 3-5/16 bore
Lawrie

[Sixseven]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

Dont do what a mate did on his 39 last week,he used a chisel and wedges to drive in under the alloy heads,bent valves buggered the block,(a good 59 block with a 4in crank and 3-5/16 bore
Lawrie

Point loading is never a good idea. My condolences for the flathead funeral.

[40Pickup]

Made a some similar for a friend's Model A.

Jorgen

[BILL WZOREK]

Originally Posted by 40Pickup

Made a some similar for a friend's Model A.

Jorgen

Lawrie:
Is yours the same principal / the ones in the plug holes are set tight and the other bolts push against the studs to lift the head ?

Jorgen:
They look like A well built tool. WELL DONE

[JonC]

Certainly do not want to Hyjack this thread, but with modern coolants and new alloy heads is this still a concern for a new build?

[cmbrucew]

JonC
If the new build is a seventy year old engine, yes.
40pickup, I like Those
Bruce

[rotorwrench]

Some of the new aluminum heads have the stud holes bored to a larger diameter but this has made several folks install locating pins to keep the head properly aligned during torque up.