helicoil vs replace screw with larger and retap

[AnthonyG]

Ross F-1, I have always used the zinc chromate. When it dries it accomplishes the same thing as the thread lock mechanically and helicoils lock in place mechanically anyway. I always figured if that was the Mil-spec / Aerospace spec requirement for installing to eliminate the corrosion with stuff in space you can't go up and fix ( LOL ) it's what I decided I would always use. Having said all that I would suspect if your using a helicoil kit and the thread locker is included or they give a specific brand / type to use it probably works as a barrier as well as what it's designed to do, insure threaded insert doesn't turn after install. However if installed properly the helicoil will lock in place once installed and the tab is snapped off. It locks in place and actually requires a deinstallation tool to remove.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

Helicoils are not junk. Both the helicoil and the inserts have their place. For example the hole for the tap for the helicoil is much smaller than the hole and tap for the insert. If your repair is near the side of the piece helicoil, if lots of material around the hole inserts. Helicoils are best inserted and held in place with a permanent locktite so they do not move. What are you repairing???? What is the size of the thread???

10-32 1/4 in door lock screw...Has one sound one in place this is the second one..Thought of just inserting JB weld then Taping it out. then inserting the screw.

I think the helicoil would work fine for my application, especially if I can minimize the hole size.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

You should make that statement to Pratt And Whitney and Boeing as heli coil is a mil spec repair. You should quit flying as aircraft and engines have 100's of heli coils.Nuff said.

R

excuuuse me!

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

Helicoils are not junk. Both the helicoil and the inserts have their place. For example the hole for the tap for the helicoil is much smaller than the hole and tap for the insert. If your repair is near the side of the piece helicoil, if lots of material around the hole inserts. Helicoils are best inserted and held in place with a permanent locktite so they do not move. What are you repairing???? What is the size of the thread???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HP7bUxU1290

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

Helicoils are not junk. Both the helicoil and the inserts have their place. For example the hole for the tap for the helicoil is much smaller than the hole and tap for the insert. If your repair is near the side of the piece helicoil, if lots of material around the hole inserts. Helicoils are best inserted and held in place with a permanent locktite so they do not move. What are you repairing???? What is the size of the thread???

This video shows that the helicoil can pull apart while the solid insert does NOT

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PY93544H1V0

[Ken/Alabama]

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I used several heicoils on a Hi po 396 Chevy block on the head bolts. Never had a problem with them.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

You should make that statement to Pratt And Whitney and Boeing as heli coil is a mil spec repair. You should quit flying as aircraft and engines have 100's of heli coils.Nuff said.

R

As a spacecraft design engineer I always suspected structural problems in the the way modern aircraft were assembled.
I stopped flying 30 years ago, take only trains, or my 1933 ford!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PY93544H1V0

[Ross F-1]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

10-32 1/4 in door lock screw...Has one sound one in place this is the second one..Thought of just inserting JB weld then Taping it out. then inserting the screw.

I think the helicoil would work fine for my application, especially if I can minimize the hole size.

Is the hole in stamped sheet metal? I'm not sure which door lock component you mean, but if it's like most door components, I'd look at tack-welding a nut on the back side. Both helicoils and inserts need thicker base metal.

[BillM]

I think you are talking about the door latch assy which has two nuts on the surface that fits to the door edge. I think they are called cage nuts. The nuts themselves are held in by a sheet metal "cage" and you should be able to replace them by carefully bending the ears of the cage. The second fuzzy picture shows one of the nuts at the bottom left. Replacing the nut would be the right way to fix the problem. Pictures are of a 1932 latch.

[Terry,OH]

If this is the door latch with the missing screw I too would consider soldering a 10-32 nut to the back of the thin metal stamping. I don't know if there is enough room or flat surface but there are inserts that can be placed into a round hole and then a special tool is used to compress & crimp the insert in the hole. They are sold for thin metal as well as thick. Also if there is enough room a D-nut can be used into a D-shaped hole. Ford used the D-nuts in many places such as toe board, attachment (see the floor and firewall). These are typical repairs for a 10-32 screw thread into thin metal. Both the Helicoil and the Threadsert type are for thicker material.

[1952henry]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

If this is the door latch with the missing screw I too would consider soldering a 10-32 nut to the back of the thin metal stamping. I don't know if there is enough room or flat surface but there are inserts that can be placed into a round hole and then a special tool is used to compress & crimp the insert in the hole. They are sold for thin metal as well as thick. Also if there is enough room a D-nut can be used into a D-shaped hole. Ford used the D-nuts in many places such as toe board, attachment (see the floor and firewall). These are typical repairs for a 10-32 screw thread into thin metal. Both the Helicoil and the Threadsert type are for thicker material.

Those inserts sound interesting. Have you a brand name for them?

[tubman]

Originally Posted by 1952henry

Those inserts sound interesting. Have you a brand name for them?

I've found the smaller sizes in the "pop-rivet" section of the hardware store. You set them using a regular "pop-rivet" gun.

[1952henry]

Thanks for the tip.

[outlaw]

Originally Posted by 1952henry

Those inserts sound interesting. Have you a brand name for them?

At work we refer to them as "nut serts". I'm not sure if that's an official name, but we have them supplied by Class C Solutions which is a subsidiary of MSC industrial supply. However I have seen a inexpensive set with a installation tool at Harbor Freight. For your application they should be good enough & inexpensive. Hope this helps. Bill

[Terry,OH]

Another source of various styles:
http://www.grainger.com/category/thr...ecatalog/N-8nr

[flatheadmurre]

Pop-nuts are fast and easy to install but they are not flat to the base surface since they need a collar to keep it in place.
If it was a cage nut there from the start replacing it would be the first choice.

[1952henry]

Yes. Dont have an immediate, but nice to know when the need arises. Thanks

[FrankWest]

Thanks friends for all your help.
You guys are great, such a wealth of info.
It is nice to know that there are many way to repair threads, Each technique unique to the application.
Because my thread is so small, original took a 10-32 1/4 screw I decide to tap out the hole with a 10-24 because screws are available with the size 10 head "from the 10-32 screw". This will be a simplest way to go for this small size thread.
All your techniques are great to know for larger repairs! Amazing! I guess if an engine head ever needed replacement and the studs rusted out then some of these techniques could be used there, Right?

[34pickup]

If you don't want to use either heli-coils or inserts, perhaps one of these specialty bolts can help you out. Not sure where to purchase them though.

[100% Matt]

Does anyone know if the Holley 26-2 repair kit is suitable for 94's?