Radiator decision?

[30 Closed Cab PU]

apbright - Since you have run without rust inhibitor, you could inspect head/block for rust/scale by removing water pump, upper head coolant gooseneck, lower hose neck, and inspect the water jackets. Perhaps crudded up due to no rust inhibitor by you and previous owners? Might be why you still have issues even with a new radiator.


Definitely run an upper hose coolant filter, don't want to ruin/plug up a new radiator


Running over 100 degrees and up long hills, may need a heavier duty radiator, like the bergs or a 4 row core.


There was a string, currently can not find it, on how to seal up a Quail cap so it will not leak. Perhaps others can help, or you can search/find it.


Good luck

[eagle]

I have a repop quail and it does not leak. I have a good rubber seal on it, other than that its right out of the box. Got it from Mac's about 6 or 7 years ago.

[apbright]

@30 Closed Cab PU: a) The block was no doubt a Carlsbad Cavern of FeO2 when I opened it up for a valve job a month ago. I would say there were open enough to allow good fluid flow, but I do wish there were a way to etch & clean out the remaining crud without leaving behind enough acid to reduce the rest of the block to dust. b) re: Quail cap, I found that adding Permetex silicone adhesive the entire gasket stack solved, temporarily, the seepage problem. However, I do think that it has caused the upper gasket (between the Quail and the lower-body of the radiator cap) to shear into two pieces, resulting in me adding another layer of Permetex adhesive, and the story continues...

I'll state again that I am a complete automotive novice. I am three-decade veteran of audio and acoustics engineering, with lots of education in theoretical systems dynamics modelling and signal processing, but before I bought my first model A in 2012, your dog likely knew more about pistons and oil than I. All my automotive education (Model A or otherwise) comes from reading Model A books and magazines, reading this forum, and trial and error (emphasis on error) on my two Model A's. Sometimes I swear I can hear cacophonous laughter from ghosts of passed-on senior Model A'ers as I fumble like an orangutan on my car's bolts. If all I do is entertain them, it will have been worth it.

[Fred K-OR]

Wow, I thought I was the only one that knew nothing! Don't feel so bad now.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by apbright

@30 Closed Cab PU: a) The block was no doubt a Carlsbad Cavern of FeO2 when I opened it up for a valve job a month ago. I would say there were open enough to allow good fluid flow, but I do wish there were a way to etch & clean out the remaining crud without leaving behind enough acid to reduce the rest of the block to dust. b) re: Quail cap, I found that adding Permetex silicone adhesive the entire gasket stack solved, temporarily, the seepage problem. However, I do think that it has caused the upper gasket (between the Quail and the lower-body of the radiator cap) to shear into two pieces, resulting in me adding another layer of Permetex adhesive, and the story continues...

I'll state again that I am a complete automotive novice. I am three-decade veteran of audio and acoustics engineering, with lots of education in theoretical systems dynamics modelling and signal processing, but before I bought my first model A in 2012, your dog likely knew more about pistons and oil than I. All my automotive education (Model A or otherwise) comes from reading Model A books and magazines, reading this forum, and trial and error (emphasis on error) on my two Model A's. Sometimes I swear I can hear cacophonous laughter from ghosts of passed-on senior Model A'ers as I fumble like an orangutan on my car's bolts. If all I do is entertain them, it will have been worth it.

I am not really much better, but have been through some things with my A too, have learned from others here on the Barn. Am still dealing with cooling issues, hope to solve next year by installing a bergs radiator. Existing is a 2 row that is not up to the task. Also this year had to pay to have replaced a blown head gasket and valve job. Also did lots of flushing/back flushing with white vinegar/baking soda treatments and thermocure treatments to finally get the block/head cleaned out. Now it has an engine knock, so is at a restoration/repair place due to my mechanical limitations.


Point is, I was making suggestions based on what I have read and experienced, hoping some of it would be useful. I definitely am not a master A mechanic with 50 years of experience.

[ericr]

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there were posts several weeks ago complaining about Brassworks radiators, is everything Camelot with them since then?

[apbright]

@ericr: My own take, from my own small mind, is that that would probably be taking it too far. There is another thread currently running discussing usage of Brassworks' pressurised radiators, and one chap mentions he has had ~90k mi good experience with one. I had a conversation with a Brassworks sales rep. while in the midst of deciding on purchasing their pressurised radiator, and felt I got good, BS-free advice. I think they're making an honset effort at delivering a range of good quality products at reasonable prices. For folks driving only occasionally and wanting a simple, clean radiator solution, I'd guess a stock-design Brassworks would work for a lifetime. But, if you have a problem with one, as I did, they'll behind their product, and help you out (as they did me, even with Snyder's as an intermediary). For the more intense (insane?) of us, maybe a Berg's, re-cored original, or pressured Brassworks is right. My experience in high-volume manufacturing (100's of millions of units per year) is that the answer of how one design compares to another only becomes clear to all after massive studies over millions of units over many months or years - something my one-off experience is a long way from providing.

And, anyway, folks looking to scam for quick big bucks are more likely hacking Bitcoins.

Happy Thanksgiving,
Andrew



https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=255087

[Chris Haynes]

After flushing my system a couple of times when I installed my new radiator I filled my cooling system with RUST 911. I also put a piece of pantyhose around the outlet neck inside the upper hose. I drove the car a few miles and let it sit overnight. Draining it it the next day the water was black bot chunks of anything in the pantyhose. A rinse then refill with RUST 911 and repeat the procedure. This time the water was grey. After the third time the water was clear and the metal inside my system was spotlessly clean. Being as I now have a closed system I run waterless coolant. No water, no rust. Even when driving in a parade on the 4th of July my temperature gauge stays in mid range.

[quickchange]

No talk of the alloy ones here ? at 1/4 the price of original type ones maybe ok for a driver, Does anyone sell them that fits 30-31 ones , I know of a local that purchased one for a 28-29 & ended up with freight etc under 1/4 the price of a recore , very happy , fitted ok & a coat of black paint , looks ok, summer time in NZ.

[PeterBo]

I have recently installed a Brassworks open pressure radiator in my 1929 Phaeton. Bought it from Bert's in Denver (and transported it as personal luggage to Australia). No installation problems BUT cleaned block thoroughly before installing and installed a temperature gauge at the same time. Highly recommend it.

Our summers are HOT. So far no issues and running between 160 - 170 degrees even on long trips with hot days. Very happy.

[dumb person]

Originally Posted by quickchange

No talk of the alloy ones here ? at 1/4 the price of original type ones maybe ok for a driver, Does anyone sell them that fits 30-31 ones , I know of a local that purchased one for a 28-29 & ended up with freight etc under 1/4 the price of a recore , very happy , fitted ok & a coat of black paint , looks ok, summer time in NZ.

I've asked about the alloy ones in the past.
From peoples reactions they work but need some fitting. I think i saw 30-31's for sale in china, but you might have to modify a 32 rad. Still cheaper than importing one from the USA, probably.

[Paul Bjarnason]

Originally Posted by 1929

To all who said they have a Bergs or Brassworks radiator, are your radiators Pressurized??? is it better to have the pressurized?

My engine rebuilder told me to get a radiator from Bergs, but when I asked him about getting a pressurized system he told me that Bergs does not sell a radiator for a pressurized system, but Brassworks does. A pressurized system will have a higher boiling point than a non-pressurized system, which seems like an advantage to me.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

I am purchasing a Bergs, no one has a complaint about them, drop in and it fits. Pressurized means you raise the boiling point, does not mean you are cooling any better, just have the possibility of letting the motor run hotter before coolant steams/boils. If it runs too much hotter the cylinder walls can get hot enough to have oil flashover and you loose ring/cylinder wall lubrication, metal on metal - not good.


A properly operating Model A cooling system (good/efficient/not filled with rust scale radiator, motor cooling passages not rusty/scaly) is the best. No need for a pressurized system.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Paul Bjarnason

My engine rebuilder told me to get a radiator from Bergs, but when I asked him about getting a pressurized system he told me that Bergs does not sell a radiator for a pressurized system, but Brassworks does. A pressurized system will have a higher boiling point than a non-pressurized system, which seems like an advantage to me.

The disadvantage is that it will cause the water pump to leak unless you have a modified one. Under normal conditions the Model A should not exceed standard (non pressurized) boiling temperature, if it does there is something else wrong.

Charlie Stephens