The Ford Barn

Enbloc · 11-22-2012, 05:37 PM

Has anybody got experience with the Reds valve changeover kits they sell?

They are a complete kit to change over an earlier flathead valve train to '49-'53 one piece style.

Are the kits with the "Pro Flo" stainless valves for flatheads or modified Chevy valves?

Russ/40 · 11-22-2012, 07:33 PM

When Chevy valves are used in flatheads, they need not be modified. The same process of butt grinding is used if adjustables are not used.

Ronnie · 11-22-2012, 07:55 PM

Chevy valves are too long for adjustables and have to be shortened.About .070" to .100" depending on the cam mfg.Just did one with a Schneider and they were .070" too long.

Glenn Thoreson · 11-22-2012, 08:36 PM

There is an ebay seller that has the parts you would need at really good prices. They offer stainless valves in either the stock version (standard and .007" oversize) and polished stainless tulip style for better air flow. The valves, I believe are made by a company in Las Vegas. They have the modern guides, seals, keepers, etc also. Sellers ebay name: Detroit Vintage Motors
Great prices on nice parts.

Russ/40 · 11-22-2012, 09:55 PM

Ronnie is correct as to length, with the variables being cam base circle and seat height. The spring height is adjusted with shims. I don't consider butt grinding as "modification" and they can be used with or without adjustables by doing so.

Enbloc · 11-22-2012, 11:01 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Glenn Thoreson

There is an ebay seller that has the parts you would need at really good prices. They offer stainless valves in either the stock version (standard and .007" oversize) and polished stainless tulip style for better air flow. The valves, I believe are made by a company in Las Vegas. They have the modern guides, seals, keepers, etc also. Sellers ebay name: Detroit Vintage Motors
Great prices on nice parts.

Thanks for the info. Looks like the same parts just different suppliers.

Ronnie · 11-22-2012, 11:34 PM

Unless you have access to a valve grinder along with some measuring equipment and some time this is a expensive venture as you will have to pay a machine shop to do all the measuring and valve setting regardless of valve length.If you are not set up to do this it is a time consuming road to venture down.Some of us are set up to do this procedure.I am one who has the shop equipment to handle this if you are not you may get a hefty bill to go along with the new parts as they are required.This is not quite a plug and play venture on a flatty.Have you the equipment to do this on your own? Hope this info helps in your Flathead engine build. PS .070" or more is a substantial amount to remove from the valve tip. (16x.070=1.12" total inches of material)doesn't sound like much but it is a time consuming ordeal.
My2¢

R

Russ/40 · 11-23-2012, 12:44 AM

Im set up for that kind of work as well. and I would not reccomend attempting it if your not properly equipped. Use the correct ford valves and good adjustables and avoid the headache. Ask Patricks about their valve lengths and avoid the longer chevy valves. Ronnie makes a good point.

Karl Wolf · 11-23-2012, 12:36 PM

Call Red's, ask Jim... He knows his bussiness, I think that he stands by his word, that is- if you have a problem with his product he will make it right.

There are different ways to go, depends on choice of cam...
Karl

Ol' Ron · 11-23-2012, 01:30 PM

I recomend using the Chebby valves when running the L-100 cam. This cam has a smaller base circle and the lifters do not have to be crancked out very far for adjustment and stay adjusted for longer periods if not forever. I also recomend removing 1/8" fron the top of the lifter bore to aid in adjusting. The old fasion way of grinding valve for proper lash is a lost art, even with the proper equipment.

2tudors · 12-04-2012, 01:19 AM

Has anyone experiance with these 1.57 valves?I also was inquireing to vintage motors on a set.Very reasonable in comparison to 1.6s.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Enbloc

Thanks for the info. Looks like the same parts just different suppliers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glenn Thoreson

There is an ebay seller that has the parts you would need at really good prices. They offer stainless valves in either the stock version (standard and .007" oversize) and polished stainless tulip style for better air flow. The valves, I believe are made by a company in Las Vegas. They have the modern guides, seals, keepers, etc also. Sellers ebay name: Detroit Vintage Motors
Great prices on nice parts.

11-22-2012, 05:37 PM	#1
Enbloc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: London, UK. Posts: 195	Reds Valve Kits? Has anybody got experience with the Reds valve changeover kits they sell? They are a complete kit to change over an earlier flathead valve train to '49-'53 one piece style. Are the kits with the "Pro Flo" stainless valves for flatheads or modified Chevy valves?

11-22-2012, 07:33 PM	#2
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Reds Valve Kits? When Chevy valves are used in flatheads, they need not be modified. The same process of butt grinding is used if adjustables are not used.

11-22-2012, 07:55 PM	#3
Ronnie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Canada Where it snows Posts: 2,058	Re: Reds Valve Kits? Chevy valves are too long for adjustables and have to be shortened.About .070" to .100" depending on the cam mfg.Just did one with a Schneider and they were .070" too long.

11-22-2012, 08:36 PM	#4
Glenn Thoreson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 203	Re: Reds Valve Kits? There is an ebay seller that has the parts you would need at really good prices. They offer stainless valves in either the stock version (standard and .007" oversize) and polished stainless tulip style for better air flow. The valves, I believe are made by a company in Las Vegas. They have the modern guides, seals, keepers, etc also. Sellers ebay name: Detroit Vintage Motors Great prices on nice parts.

11-22-2012, 09:55 PM	#5
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Reds Valve Kits? Ronnie is correct as to length, with the variables being cam base circle and seat height. The spring height is adjusted with shims. I don't consider butt grinding as "modification" and they can be used with or without adjustables by doing so.

11-22-2012, 11:34 PM	#7
Ronnie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Canada Where it snows Posts: 2,058	Re: Reds Valve Kits? Unless you have access to a valve grinder along with some measuring equipment and some time this is a expensive venture as you will have to pay a machine shop to do all the measuring and valve setting regardless of valve length.If you are not set up to do this it is a time consuming road to venture down.Some of us are set up to do this procedure.I am one who has the shop equipment to handle this if you are not you may get a hefty bill to go along with the new parts as they are required.This is not quite a plug and play venture on a flatty.Have you the equipment to do this on your own? Hope this info helps in your Flathead engine build. PS .070" or more is a substantial amount to remove from the valve tip. (16x.070=1.12" total inches of material)doesn't sound like much but it is a time consuming ordeal. My2¢ R

11-23-2012, 12:44 AM	#8
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Reds Valve Kits? Im set up for that kind of work as well. and I would not reccomend attempting it if your not properly equipped. Use the correct ford valves and good adjustables and avoid the headache. Ask Patricks about their valve lengths and avoid the longer chevy valves. Ronnie makes a good point. Last edited by Russ/40; 11-23-2012 at 12:51 AM.

11-23-2012, 12:36 PM	#9
Karl Wolf Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mill Valley,Ca. Posts: 1,509	Re: Reds Valve Kits? Call Red's, ask Jim... He knows his bussiness, I think that he stands by his word, that is- if you have a problem with his product he will make it right. There are different ways to go, depends on choice of cam... Karl

11-23-2012, 01:30 PM	#10
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,857	Re: Reds Valve Kits? I recomend using the Chebby valves when running the L-100 cam. This cam has a smaller base circle and the lifters do not have to be crancked out very far for adjustment and stay adjusted for longer periods if not forever. I also recomend removing 1/8" fron the top of the lifter bore to aid in adjusting. The old fasion way of grinding valve for proper lash is a lost art, even with the proper equipment.