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08-01-2019, 05:24 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Sydney Nova Scotia
Posts: 126
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Leaking transmission 47 monarch
Hoping it's as simple as it looks.the seal where the shifting forks come out the side of transmission are leaking . is it a simple matter of disconnecting the linkage removing the old seals and replacing or is there more to it .Thanks for any help
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08-01-2019, 05:45 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
You have to remove the shift arms from the side of the transmission and replace the originals seals located right behind the shift arms, Part # 01A-7288.The arms are pinned in place so you have to drive out the pins. Make sure your transmission is in "neutral" when you do this. It can be a tedious process as there is not a lot of working room. Original seals were leather. New seals are rubber.
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08-01-2019, 05:51 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Sydney Nova Scotia
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
Thank you I ordered the seals got three just in case these are a metal ring with a rubber insert would they be correct ?
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08-01-2019, 07:50 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
I drained the oil from the transmission and removed the side cover with the transmission in place when I did mine.
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08-02-2019, 05:54 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,361
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
The retaining pins on the two shifter levers were swedged in by Ford and are typically very difficult to remove. This job is best accomplished by putting the housing in a sturdy vice, grinding off the head of the pin and driving it out with a 1/4” punch and heavy hammer. It’s not unusual for the pin to be extremely tight in the shaft.....often the hammer blows can further tighten the fit rather than pushing the old pin out. Sometimes you have to drill into the pin with a small bit, enough to relieve some of the metal and allow the punch to drive it out. Be careful that you don’t crack the housing with very heavy hammer blows.
It’s possible (but not easy) to remove the old oil seal by prying it out. Installing the new seal has its own difficulties because the lip of the new seal wants to flip over on you. We remove the two shifter shafts completely, then clean them up. Sometimes the part of the shaft where the seal lip rides is worn and pitted. It should be replaced if you see that or the new seal will leak as well. We grind a bigger chamfer on the end of the shaft to make it easier to slide through the new seal without flipping the lip. I can’t imagine trying to do this job with the shifter housing still bolted to the transmission, and do the work under the car.....
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VANPELT SALES LLC Cincinnati, Ohio Office: 513-724-9486 www.vanpeltsales.com www.classictransmission.com |
08-02-2019, 09:56 AM | #6 |
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Location: Coral Springs FL
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
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Also replaced the pins that secure the throw out bearing fork and the clutch release equalizer shaft (not shown below) to the clutch release shaft shown in last photo. Of course, if you are building a concourse car, this is a "no, no". The reason I did this was because I didn't think I could swedge the replacement pins tight enough to prevent play. At least 20 years and still working fine. Last edited by 19Fordy; 08-02-2019 at 11:26 AM. |
08-02-2019, 11:29 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Chelmsford, ON Canada
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
47Monarch I did the seals on my "46 Coupe. I posted on the EFV8 site, and got some good suggestions, similar to here on the Barn. As my '46 has a removeable floor plate, I could remove the shift housing out of the side of the xmission and up. As it is a tight area, I had to tilt the shifter housing back and remove the shift forks from the shift cams to allow the cover to be raised. The attached is my post from the EFV8 forum. Be careful when you pull out the shift cams p/n 7280 & 7282, as the balls in the "interlock" are spring loaded and will disappear to somewhere in the shop on you.
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/vi...12448&keywords= |
08-02-2019, 11:55 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Sydney Nova Scotia
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
Thank you all for the info think it just may have to leak till I put the car away summers are short and winter's are way to long up here
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08-02-2019, 12:19 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,426
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
When utilizing bolts as a replacement for the rivets, it is important that the bolts fit as close as possible to the rivets holes through the parts to be joined. If there is any looseness, the parts will wear against the bolt rapidly. If the holes are still fairly tight then bolts will do OK, at least for quite a while.
Mac VP uses universal length clevis pins as rivets and they fatten out pretty well due to the cotter pin holes drilled into them at different length intervals. An alternative would be to check with Big Flats Rivet Co for some softer iron or mild steel rivets that may be easier to set. A rivet fills the hole better and hardens during the driving process. This is why so many old buildings and bridges built with rivets are still standing and usable. |
08-02-2019, 02:24 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
rotorwrench: Are the rivets that harden during the driving process used on those shift arms?
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08-02-2019, 06:16 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Chelmsford, ON Canada
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
I used coiled roll pins to connect the shift arms to the shafts. Working good so far, and are nice and tight. They come in various sizes, and can be bought in small quantities (2) from most industrial fastener suppliers.
https://www.mcmaster.com/roll-pins |
08-02-2019, 06:29 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
The coiled ones don't break as easy as the standard spring pin but they are spring steel and that makes all of them a bit on the brittle side. I've replaced a lot of roll pins that are used in applications where torque is applied and its the only thing in there acting as a key to torsional movement. If it works for you, go ahead but don't be surprised if one day it decides not to shift into gear.
Just about every form of malleable metal work hardens when you beat on it. |
08-04-2019, 04:20 PM | #13 |
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Wichita Kansas
Posts: 134
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Re: Leaking transmission 47 monarch
Read this thread and pulled my leaky side cover, lol. waiting on seals now, I was already in the area replacing the brake and clutch pedal bushings and transmission mount on my 47 so why not, my floor will thank me.
The info came in handy. |
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