Remove pin from Clutch and brake Pedal Shaft

[akersa]

I am replacing the badly worn pedal shaft on my 1929 Model A and wondered if there are any tips for getting the pin out of it that pins the shaft into the Bell Housing? I have tried a chisel a bit to see if I could drive between the rolled head of the pin and the bell housing but before I get carried away I thought that I would ask. The Engine and Transmission are in the frame, but the body is still off.

Thanks,
Adam Akers

[1929 Red Tudor]

It's a tapered pin so make sure you are pounding in the correct direction. It should break loose

[Tom Endy]

I would advise not attempting this project with the bell housing in the car, This is a job for it on the work bench. You could easily paint yourself into a corner.

There are two types of pin. Most have a domed head and are peened on the inside. The way to remove it is to use a chisel to knock the head off. Then with a punch drive it inward.

The second is a tapered pin, which most people use when replacing a pedal shaft. These have to be driven out from the inside. I would recommend not trying to drill either out.

Once the pin is out, the next problem is getting the shaft itself out. Some are found extremely tight. I made up a tool that presses them out from the inside.

If you succeed getting both the pin and the shaft out, the next challenge is installing the new shaft.

two problems:

1. They go in tight, I use a shop press. Don't hammer on the end of the shaft because you will cause it to mushroom and you won't be able to get the pedals on. If you are going to use a hammer use a block of wood between the hammer and the end of the shaft.

2. The trick is to get the shaft installed so that the hole in the shaft lines up with the hole in the housing, not an easy task. If you miss, it has to come back out again to start over. Even if you get it in and it looks like both holes are lined up, run a drill bit through both to clean it up so the new pin does not hang up.

Tom Endy

[canadian]

I done this in a 29 this past winter , that's not in a blind hole so I just cut head off . drove pin in and retrieved it with magnet through ball socket attachment in bell housing. I had clutch /pedal shaft lubricated with PB Blaster for a few days and it came right out with a small pipe wrench. As Tom says make double sure that locking pin holes a aligned because it will be extremely difficult to get the new shaft to turn or come out after installation. as you say Body is off its no problem and probably a 2 beer job...

[Dean Lemoine]

It's definitely a tapered pin. I did mine yesterday. I knocked the pin out from inside, and the shaft came out fairly well. I bought the kit from Bert's. It included bushings for the pedals as well.

[Joe K]

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I have used a short length of pipe (nipple) and two couplings as a "puller" for the shaft.

You assemble the pipe and couplings together and remove the pedals and collar. Put the pipe on over the shaft and then replace the collar with its pin.

Then, using two pipe wrenchs "unscrew" the couplings to use the pipe/couplings as a hollow ram. As the shaft backs out, you can use pipe bushings to take up space.

Today I would use the porta-power and a hollow ram.

Joe K

[canadian]

Originally Posted by Dean Lemoine

It's definitely a tapered pin. I did mine yesterday. I knocked the pin out from inside, and the shaft came out fairly well. I bought the kit from Bert's. It included bushings for the pedals as well.

Hey Dean ,as Tom said there are two types of pins , one is tapered as you have and one is just a straight pin with a head on it and a little mushroomed head inside . this type can be driven from outside in very easy. I never replaced the taper style but that would definitely have to be driven inside out as you say you encountered.