Searching the name of an axis-component

[Werner]

Hi, can someone please tell me what this assembly is called? I do not find it in the catalogs of bratton's and MAC's.

The ball joint can be moved vertically up and down and it rattles. The shell-shaped cover flange was filled with sealing compound. I think that is not right.

Thank you for help!

[Kurt in NJ]

Looks like the rubber radius rod socket---- originally metal with tension springs

[jwilliams81]

The rubber ball is a temporary fix and should be removed, but here is the link for it:
https://www.brattons.com/replacement...ement-set.html

Here is what should be correctly installed:
https://www.brattons.com/original-st...ocket-set.html

Here is a new radius ball, if you cut the old one off and weld this one on.
There are articles on how to do that correctly:
https://www.brattons.com/radius-rod-repair-ball.html

[katy]

https://www.brattons.com/original-st...ocket-set.html

[Bob C]

Here is a link to the rubber ball at Brattons. https://www.brattons.com/radius-rod-rubber-ball.html
I prefer the original type pictured.


Bob

[Badpuppy]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Mine looks like Werner's. Guess I'll be ordering the Bratton's kit too. Thanks, guys.

[Werner]

Guten Abend, many thanks you for the many and fast assistance. Now I know. I found the catalog parts and order the original version from MAC's. Thank you again in the friendly society!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Badpuppy

Mine looks like Werner's. Guess I'll be ordering the Bratton's kit too. Thanks, guys.

Do understand that the ball is supposed to be 1.500" in diameter. When the radius rod ball is worn, mechanics used to put the rubber ball onto the metal ball to take up the clearance difference. Purchasing the correct kit may not be the correct thing to do unless the ball is restored to correct specs.

[Werner]

Brent, and what should I order better then?

[Synchro909]

I just repaired one of those. I made a guage with a 1.5" diameter hole in it, then built up the worn part of the ball with weld. I used an arc welder and fed in some extra metal as I welded to build it up. I then spent some time shaping it so that my guage just fit over it in all possible directions. If you take this course of action, make sure you buy the correct socket for the ball - not one made for the rubber ball. They are different sizes.

[john in illinois]

Werner this kit will shim the wishbone ball for a good fit with the correct parts.

https://snydersantiqueauto.com/Produ...earchByKeyword

John

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

Werner this kit will shim the wishbone ball for a good fit with the correct parts.

https://snydersantiqueauto.com/Produ...earchByKeyword

John

The ball wear at the top. I tried one of those kits but in no time, the shims ended up under the ball, not on top of it. I thought it was useless.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

Werner this kit will shim the wishbone ball for a good fit with the correct parts.

https://snydersantiqueauto.com/Produ...earchByKeyword

John

John, I don't want to start an argument but Model-T radius rod ball and a Model-A ball are two different sizes. And most people who have tried shimming have found the results as dismal at best. The problem is the ball is not worn to a smaller diameter, -it is worn flat.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Werner

Brent, and what should I order better then?

Restore the ball, -then order the correct type system.


Many people do not realize how critical the fit of that is for two reasons. The first is steering. When the radius rod ball has clearance to move, it changes caster on bumps, and when one side hits even the smallest of obstacles, it allows the front axle to move in a lateral rotation which affects the steering drag link location. This can cause the car to dart when hitting a bump in the road or a R/R crossing.


The second issue when the ball can move vertically happens when the brakes are applied. When the brake pedal is depressed and the brake rod is pulled, the shoes begin to scrub against the drum which causes the entire axle assembly to rotate forward. As this rotating happens, the front brake levers get pulled even more applying much more brake pressure -however this action is not controlled o because of the over-braking the driver releases some pedal pressure which allows the front radius rod to relax and fall back downward releasing more pulling pressure on the brake levers than the driver intended. Add this nonsense to the handling issues in the loose steering, and the car behaves like a worn out-old farm tractor going down the road.

[Werner]

Yes, that describes very accurately the symptoms that my car has: Very bad straight run, on bad roads downhill, plucking brakes unevenly.

Unfortunately, brattons do not currently have the complete O-repair kit available, so I had to order the replacement with a rubber cap.

Thanks to all for the helping information!

[Tom Wesenberg]

I would have then tried Snyder's or Bert's for the original style kit.
When I removed the rubber ball kit from my 1928 and installed the correct style kit, the ball wasn't worn enough to need any fixing. The plates still had at least 1/8" gap between them, so they held the ball firmly in place.

[Badpuppy]

Apparently I'm just missing the sleeves and springs. The lower plate is cocked - I knew something wasn't right. Haven't driven it enough to notice handling issues. Will gauge the ball when I get it apart.

[SteveB31]

Bert’s has the correct kit and the ball in stock.

[john in illinois]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

John, I don't want to start an argument but Model-T radius rod ball and a Model-A ball are two different sizes. And most people who have tried shimming have found the results as dismal at best. The problem is the ball is not worn to a smaller diameter, -it is worn flat.

Brent you are right,I posted in haste.

John

[Werner]

Guten Tag Tom, I have now received the original replica and the pan dish from Don Snyder. Something irritated me the very thick (grease?) felt.

Where does he have to go?


Thanks again!