Help on this engine ID

[B-O-B]

Hey all I could use some help finding out what this chunk of iron is. I purchased this as a project last Feb & have slowly been getting it to a running stage. The engine is a 21 stud with cast iron heads & just ford script on the face of them. The number is *8F-3152* on the block,has the ledge above the distributor,Raised bumps along both pan rails,Water pump in the heads,driver side dipstick between the exhaust manifold &block,stroke checks out to be 4" . There is also a large A stamped in the drivers side rear of the block next to the intake & a letter M cast in the block.
The tranny has *99-336* which looks to be a 39 merc. Remember this is the tranny with the acorn in it when I drained the fluid.
Any & all help is needed & appreciated.
Thank You All,
B-O-B
PS
It has the angled pet cocks on the front of the block & breather in the front of the pan.

[Ralph Moore]

Does it have the water pump block off plates on lower front of block? Right now I'm thinking early 38?

[TomO]

This post should help

http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...nces&showall=1

[B-O-B]

Thanks Ralph but it does not. Just the std water outlet & motor mount support.

[B-O-B]

Thanks Tom I looked the before but the ser# has me a bit baffled. No1stamped in front of the 8F. I also went back & edited my post. I forgot about the petcocks & breather, CRS sucks.

[B-O-B]

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OK I did a bit more checking with a piece of foil under the front edge of the heads & there are casting dates of 12 7 39 on the drivers side & 12 6 9 on the passenger side.
These show up when you rub over the foil when placed against the heads.
I realize these are bolted on but would like to find out what I have. I had it running & it runs fine. I'm in the process of replacing the PP & clutch.

[scooder]

Well it's pre 37 block, as no block water pump blank offs. Stroke is 4"!? Definitely? Then I guess it's a 36 LB, that someone cut a 4" crank down to fit. Quite a job, as if I recall, the center main length is different, main bearings are smaller in the LB, crank nose is shorter. Maybe more? Is it 3 1/16" or 3 3/16" bore? If 3 1/16" the rod bearings are cut to 2" as the bigger Rod won't fit down the bore.
Sounds like a good little street sleeper.
Martin.

[B-O-B]

I have no idea as to the bore. I removed the engine to RR the clutch & PP. I followed Ol Rons idea to use a zip tie or stiff piece of plastic to insert thru the spark plug hole. Find TDC mark plastic & turn engine over till BDC & mark plastic. Remove the plastic & measure. I get 4" on the mark.
I just bought his as a project & the PO has no idea as to what is there. It belonged to his dad & he passed away. That is what I have been told. He thought the engine may have been rebuilt but did not know who rebuilt it. When I received it I pulled the plugs & the piston tops what you could see thru the plug hole was clean. No carbon or black soot.
Thanks for any & all replys. I sure would like to find out without having to open up this engine which I am not going to do. I will just run it till it don't run no more.

[koates]

Hi there, Looks like a 34 to 36 engine. Has a 34 intake manifold. Has a 35 to 36 dip stick. Look underneath and see if it has a wide pan (35-36) or parallel sided narrow pan of 33-34. If its a 36 LB block will have a breather opening on front right of block underneath. My bet is its a 35 engine. Cheers, Kevin.

[B-O-B]

Hi Kev & thanks for the reply,
The pan has a R F breather & is wide also has the bulges on the block pan rails, 97 stromberg & lip above the dizzy. No LB stamped on the block next to the intake.
Chassis & running gear appear to be 34 & as stated the tranny case is stamped * 99 A-336* an enigma for sure. maybe an enema I'm not too sure about either one.
this engine was supposedly built some 20 years ago & I cannot find anything on the builder from Iowa. Funny number on the block also.*8F 3152* & this is at the very front of the block so no room for a 1,in fact the 8F is below the *3152*.

[JM 35 Sedan]

B-O-B, the transmission has the later '39-'48 gears. I am thinking the engine is '35-'36, (possibly an LB. All LB's are not stamped as such on intake deck), if the oil pan has the front vent and the vented system is functioning when the engine is running. I have some 21stud, front water pump, cast iron heads that are date coded in the mid '40's, so yours with '39 does not sound unusal. The intake is '34 or very early '35. The left water pump is '36, can't see the right side. Right side motor mount/water inlet appears to be '35. That type carburetor air cleaner was used from '34 - '36. If it does have a 4" stroke, this could have been done by welding material on the rod journals and off set grinding the journals. I will edit to add aditional information if I see anything else.

john

[B-O-B]

Thank you John, The right side wp is identical to the left side. Here is a pic of the right side but not too good of the pump. The pan vent does work very well. The clutch is a 9" & I sent it & the PP to Ft Wayne for repair. Got the brakes finished & wanted to go for a test drive & couldn't get it in gear. Just finished the mechanical brakes & the rear has the numbers for a 4:11. I replaced the front shackles & have the rear ones waiting for me to get the courage to install them. I'm think of removing a spring leaf when I do as it sets up too high for me. Might have to get some longer shackle arms.
It gets pretty frustrating working on it here in Az as all my heavy duty tools are in Oregon so I have to go around trying to rent or borrow what I don't have here.
Thanks again for the info.
B-O-B

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by B-O-B

I have no idea as to the bore. I removed the engine to RR the clutch & PP. I followed Ol Rons idea to use a zip tie or stiff piece of plastic to insert thru the spark plug hole. Find TDC mark plastic & turn engine over till BDC & mark plastic. Remove the plastic & measure. I get 4" on the mark.
I just bought his as a project & the PO has no idea as to what is there. It belonged to his dad & he passed away. That is what I have been told. He thought the engine may have been rebuilt but did not know who rebuilt it. When I received it I pulled the plugs & the piston tops what you could see thru the plug hole was clean. No carbon or black soot.
Thanks for any & all replys. I sure would like to find out without having to open up this engine which I am not going to do. I will just run it till it don't run no more.

I've located TDC this way, but never heard of measuring the stroke like this. Don't see how you can be sure it is going down parallel with the bore to get an accurate measurement.

[B-O-B]

I couldn't answer you that. I just used a piece of plastic covered copper wire then just let it follow the piston down it was steady & didn't move any except go down. Made a mark when it was at the top & a mark when it was at the bottom & measured between the marks. What is wrong with that? Good enough for me. I'm just trying to find out what I have & what year this engine is. The P O couldn't give me any info so I have to improvise to find out what I have. I have a couple of flatties torn apart in Or & when I migrate north I might just do some test but for now this is good enough.

[flatjack9]

When you push that wire in, it is going to be going down at an angle, hence the larger reading. Unless you have the wire exactly parallel to the cylinder wall for the full length, you will get an improper reading and I don't see how you can do that going thru the plug hole. If the plug was directly over the piston, no problem.