1932 Ford grill shell

[SMILIES]

Can anyone tell me how to "instantly" identify a original 1932 grill shell from a old rusty aftermarket or repainted shell? I've been using these holes at the top of the hood shelf to identify real deal from repops. Now, I'm looking at a shell on a untouched original car that the patina matches the shell. It also looks to be 100% the real deal. Only thing is, on the top there, its made slightly different. Close but different. I don't know if this could have come from different stamps back in the day or what ever.

The center grey primer shell in the picture below I think is real deal. It was filled back in the day with scrap metal and lead. You can see the difference of the center of that hood shelf in those 3 shells. I was just wondering is there something that's a dead give away.Thanks for any help, post pictures if you can.

[woodiewagon46]

Your question was answered on the H.A.M.B.

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by woodiewagon46

Your question was answered on the H.A.M.B.

-
Can you give the rest of us a clue or a link please??

[DavidG]

Yes, please do, but in any event, the two on the right in the photo are original. Note the squared-off ends to the depressed area for the hood lacing.

[rockfla]

Dave
with respect, The center appears to me to have the "squared" ends, left and right both appear "rounded" to me.....any clarification on that?

[DavidG]

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Robert,

For me both the two on the right have what I think of as squared ends (plus the distinctly formed rectangular raised portion that rests on top of the tabs integral with the radiator), both of which are absent in varying degrees on the one on the left.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by woodiewagon46

Your question was answered on the H.A.M.B.

I don't think he got an adequate answer on HAMB and I question the knowledge of those that answered. The question he asked is best answered here and that is why I suggested he come here.

Charlie Stephens

[rockfla]

Thanks David, the "raised" portion is certainly distinguishable. Thanks for sharing all your wealth of information both here and on the 1933 phaeton 4cyl thread, I learn a lot every time!!!

[rotorwrench]

The left one is painted quite a bit but even then it's not quite the same in form and fit as the center & right pieces in the photo. There is some optical error with distance due to the angle of the photo. It makes the fastener holes look smaller on the right piece and larger on the left but it doesn't affect the differences in shape too much.

Every thing on these models is a learning experience for me. Good condition 1932 Ford cars are a little out of my price range right now.

[woodiewagon46]

Hopefully Dave can back me up on this. Aside from the obvious radiator fill hole and the headlight and horn conduit holes there should be a hole for the crank and two squarish holes with rounded corners on the grill "apron". Two holes for the front hood hinge bracket. Also, two oblong holes near the hood hinge bracket, for the upper grill shell lacing clip. At the bottom on each side there are 3 oblong holes for the lower hood lacing clip. Forward of the middle lacing hole there should be a depression on each side with a 3/16" hole for the stainless steel grill trim to bolt to. A god metal man can probably fake one but if you know what you are looking at it's very hard.

[Charlie Stephens]

Here is the answer on HAMB and hopefully you will understand why I sent him here. Note original post had incorrect reference. The correct site is: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-12029317

Charlie Stephens

[woodiewagon46]

I just measured the metal thickness on one I have hanging on my garage wall and it's .034 or 21 gauge. I don't know what the reproduction shells are. Hope this helps.

[woodiewagon46]

Charlie, the post you indicate is about 1929 windshield stanchions??? Not what I posted about his grill shell.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by woodiewagon46

Charlie, the post you indicate is about 1929 windshield stanchions??? Not what I posted about his grill shell.

Sorry, it should have been: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-12029317

Charlie Stephens

[DavidG]

woodiewagon46,

I concur with your post #10. You could five more holes, namely the three small ones around the fill opening to attach the die cast trim piece, one on the nose for the emblem and die cast trim attachment, and a very small one near the top of the crown of the vertical surface adjacent to the bead for securing the top of the stainless steel moulding that covers the bead. That latter hole shows up on the center shell in the photo given that it is at a slight angle. Likely it is there on the shell on the right and unlikely to be there on the shell on the left.

[woodiewagon46]

Thanks David, I lumped the trim ring holes in with the radiator fill hole. For those of you that don't know David, well he is probably the most knowledgeable person in our hobby, on the 1932 Ford. He also wrote the two volume '32 judging standards for the V-8 Club. I would think that the hardest thing to fake on the Deuce grill would be the indentations on the bottom of each side of the shell that the trim piece attaches to.

[DavidG]

I agree that those indented flats with the holes for the trim studs would be a challenge (and thank you for your gracious compliment).

One of the many fascinating '32 component variations that I have encountered have been slight variations in the curvature down from the filler opening to the curved-under part right above the grille insert. When some folks criticize the Vintique and Bob Drake reproductions of the die cast piece running from the filler opening down to near the grille because they don't fit their radiator shells properly, I silently thank my lucky stars that those reproductions exist. In my experience, every original radiator shell has a slightly different curvature in that area and on one shell, a NOS piece fits best and on another shell, the Drake piece fits best and on a third, the Vintique piece fits best. It's kind of weird, but then the radiator shell is a complex stamping.

[outlaw]

Originally Posted by woodiewagon46

I just measured the metal thickness on one I have hanging on my garage wall and it's .034 or 21 gauge. I don't know what the reproduction shells are. Hope this helps.

FYI: I checked my Vintique shell in several places with a American Standard
wire gage used for sheet metal thickness. 19ga (.036) is really tight & 18ga (.040) is a little loose. I would opt for calling 19ga giving the choice. Bill

[rotorwrench]

Draw steel (aluminum killed draw quality) thins out some during the stamping process so it changes the gauge a bit. Ford made their own steel so it was what ever thickness they needed for the design of the stamping dies they made for that part. Reproduction parts have to be made with what is available to the stamper and that would make it difficult to make an exact replica of a Ford part from that era. The american standard revised gauge steel can be used to get close to what Ford used back in the day but may not be able to get the exact thickness after stamping.

[BillM]

Some pictures of mine: