Adding a 4 blade instead of my 2 blade fan.

[eagle]

If your cooling system is in good condition, 50/50 mix will work just fine for ALL weather. The last thing you want is rust or corrosion.

[katy]

Before installing the gauge i tested it on the stove and it was good.

Compare engine temperatures w/an IR against what your gauge is saying.

[Roger V]

Understand in some company's test that water runs thirty degrees cooler than 50-50. I use (distilled) with Prestone or Peak rust inhibitor (has water pump lube). Like already mentioned a four blade isn't needed if all else is good. Supposedly, it causes more drag on the engine needlessly using up some horsepower. In your case it would add to the heat build-up. Agree that you don't even need a fan beyond low speeds. Usually, the radiator is the cause for overheating so rechecking is good advice. Since your engine isn't broken in yet, running 55-60 likely would be hard on it and add to the running temperature.

[jrelliott]

If you are running Tap water, hope it is reasonably soft as if you live where there is much calcium in the water, you will have to have the radiator cleaned out after a while due to deposits. Had radiator problems many years ago and the radiator repair man said, "You mixed your anti-freeze with tap water as I can see the deposits. Mix with distilled water and will never see me again." Lived in Tucson at the time. Water here in Pine is relatively hard and have a softener.

[Davew]

I agree with the ir temp gun. found mine wasn't running as hot as indicated..not sure of quality of current temp gauges.

[duke36]

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Not sure mentioned but the 4 blade fans are heavy and can stress the pump bearings if not balanced properly. We've used the 2 blade alum repro's on a number of cars and they can be balanced with a v block held in a vise by grinding off a little material which we never found to be needed.

[Corley]

I think you can run more advance than 21 degrees. I'm running 34 degrees right now at cruise, but it drops back to 24 degrees when under load when the vacuum advance drops out. ( I have a 6.1 cr.) Since you don't have vacuum advance, you should probably get by fine with 24-26 degrees with that cr. By all means, if you detect any pre-ignition, back off on advance to avoid damage.

But, that's just my personal opinion. I know others will disagree.

[WHN]

Are you using a thermostat?

[old31]

Corey, I will add an additional 4 degrees and see how it sounds.

WHN, no T stat.

[Del in NE Ohio]

Back flush or rod out the radiator. Tubes likely plugged. Fan is not issue. Relatively new motor, so shouldn't be necessary to back flush block.

[WHN]

Originally Posted by WHN

Are you using a thermostat?

I read your post again an see you don’t have a thermostat.

There have been a number of good ideas given here.

We have done the same thing on our cars and never had one that overheated or ran hot.

Engine side pans, leak less water pump, “New” correct radiator. Takes spending maybe more than some people would want but assuming a correctly timed and running engine. Solves temperature problems.

You should be running around 165 to 170 degrees. At 220 plus degrees, you could have oil flash on cylinder walls, you most likely have boiling in block with no coolant on some internal surfaces. Just steam. Engine failure could be next.

[Purdy Swoft]

Some need to understand that what works for the modern car doesn't always apply to the model A ...

[Corley]

Originally Posted by old31

Corley, I will add an additional 4 degrees and see how it sounds.

WARNING:


Since it seems you have adjusted/limited your FSIs total advance to 21 degrees (I think from what you have written), and now you are going to try advancing it a bit, please be careful. The reason for setting initial timing at zero degrees is that if advanced beyond that, hand cranking can result in broken arms, and starters can end up with bent shafts. If you don't plan to hand crank it EVER, then you can get away with 4-5 degrees initial advance, the starter can handle that, but no more than that. If you will ever be cranking it, then zero is it, and you need to adjust your stop in the FSI centrifugal advance so you can get zero initial, and about 25 degrees at 2k rpms. Make no mistake, FSI dizzies can be a balancing act. This is why I like a vacuum advance.

[PC/SR]

Not sure how you have your timing set up. If you have a stock FSI, total advance range is about 32 degrees. If you have adjusted the timing so that max advance is 21 degrees BTDC, the initial setting will be about 10 degrees retarded. At what rpm does the FSI reach the 21 degrees ? Same issue would apply, but not as bad, with max timing at 25 degrees. Could be you are running retarded all the way up. FSI used to have lighter tensioned springs (might still sell them) so the advance comes sooner. As Corley says, FSI's are a balancing act particularly with a HC head and any other mods. If you can find anyone with the old Sun distributor machine, talk to them and play with the settings.

However, I also agree with the suggestions of rodding out the radiator.

[old31]

I do not have an FSI distributor. I am running points only with an a and L condenser.

Could someone explain as to how or why this happens? After retesting the timing I put the pin in and with the nurex gauge it was at zero and the pin went in. That is what I would expect to happen. When I started up the car and the left quadrant all the way up the timing gun showed 10° At idle at 400 RPM Why 10°, why wouldn’t it show zero if I just put the pin in and didn’t touch anything.


I have readjusted my stop on the quadrant so now with it down I am at 25° versus my old 21°.


So back to the issue of zero with the pin in and the timing gun showing 10° at idle

[frank55a]

There is a time delay in the primary to secondary ignition circuits. Specifically, with the ignition switch on and the points closed there is a magnetic field established in the coil.
When the points are opened the field collapses and the magnetic flux cuts thru the wires of the secondary winding of the coil thereby inducing the spark. This spark must travel from the coil, jump the gaps of the rotor and plug to reach ground. Per a NAPA ignition training manual this time delay to induce the spark and the spark to travel to ground is typically 0.002 seconds but this time delay may vary slightly based on operating voltage 12V or 6V, length of leads, etc. This time delay however is consent for any given system. So with the engine stopped and the pin in with the cylinder at TDC, then if idling at 400 RPM how far past TDC did the crank move in 0.002 seconds? When you figure this out then figure how far past TDC the crank moved at 1000 RPM and 2000 RPM. When you figure that out you will have part of the answer as to why you advance the spark when increasing speed and retard when slowing down.

[cpf240]

I seem to remember reading somewhere that when the timing pin is in the recess in the timing gear, the #1 piston is not actually at TDC.


In addition, I've also read that if one has a B timing cover, the pin will be in a slightly different position, changing the timing if used on an A.

[ursus]

Originally Posted by Corley

WARNING:


Since it seems you have adjusted/limited your FSIs total advance to 21 degrees (I think from what you have written), and now you are going to try advancing it a bit, please be careful. The reason for setting initial timing at zero degrees is that if advanced beyond that, hand cranking can result in broken arms, and starters can end up with bent shafts. If you don't plan to hand crank it EVER, then you can get away with 4-5 degrees initial advance, the starter can handle that, but no more than that. If you will ever be cranking it, then zero is it, and you need to adjust your stop in the FSI centrifugal advance so you can get zero initial, and about 25 degrees at 2k rpms. Make no mistake, FSI dizzies can be a balancing act. This is why I like a vacuum advance.

The Model B engine is timed at 19 degrees of initial advance and I have never heard of a damaged starter resulting from that. I have also seen them started with a hand crank and no injuries resulted.

[Chris Haynes]

I run a 4 blade fan. Pressurized radiator filled with Waterless Coolant. Crawling in a parade or running down the freeway my temperature gauge never goes out of operating range.

[old31]

CP, I have verified that when the pin goes in I am at TDC. I have one of those small cameras hooked up to my phone so i can see what is going on in the #1 cylinder while cranking and the pin drops in.

Frank, I really need help on your explanation. For me this would be timing and electrical for dummies 101.

When at idle at 400 and the lever is up, the timing gun shows 10 degrees advanced. At 1000 rpm or 2000 rpm the gun still shows 10 degrees advanced if i do not touch the lever. If i move the lever all the way down to my stop i get 25 degrees.

So, my question-issue-is: Shouldn't the gun be reading zero at idle with the lever up, instead of 10 degrees advanced? Especially with the pin just inserted at TDC and it is at zero..

This is the gauge that i am using.

https://www.brattons.com/ignition-ti...ator-only.html