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Old 05-07-2011, 02:14 PM   #101
Rusty Homestead Fl
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

I second all the above. I get upset when you take TOO long in between posts! With me doing a coupe I get extra pleasure seeing what you are doing.
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Old 05-14-2011, 07:28 AM   #102
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

well these are a set of splash aprons that looked decent until i got em back from the blasters.sand blaster always finds all kinds of nice things for me to fix!





this was all lap tacked i guess you could call it.



i ran a grinder down the slit to make it a butt weld









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Old 05-23-2011, 07:18 PM   #103
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

heres a fender i did recently with the hole for the tire.

yeeeeah i dont even know what causes damage like that.















gettin there









rear brace where it meets the running board







new pan had to be put in since the old one has seen better days





45 spot welds later







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Last edited by Flop; 10-01-2011 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:18 PM   #104
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

This is one of the best posts I have seen in a long time. Having done all of this kind of work, I studied each picture carefully. Superb! It is great seeing these repairs done correctly. Tons of work, but it is done right when you are finished-no doubts, no bondo, no cheating. Just solid and beautiful. Well done! Keep showing us more.
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:32 PM   #105
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How about putting some of this on YouTube so we can see how it's done.

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Old 05-23-2011, 10:16 PM   #106
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Very inspiring and instructive. Your posts show what and how, and they set a standard for the work. Thanks for keeping it up. Rancho.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:41 PM   #107
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Jeez my right hand is numb. But certainly worth it!
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Old 05-24-2011, 08:46 AM   #108
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

Flop I have a question. When showing shots of your sheet metal patches, it is evident that you work and finish weld one edge at a time. Subsequent shots show the original tack welds and the patch is finished one side. Can you educate me on this method?, as I have always tacked all around until the joint is complete, (keep the heat down by spacing the welds) then finished the grinding/filing until I am happy.
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:52 PM   #109
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

how do you avoid pin holes and the little weld edges that always seem to need to be filed down?
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:15 AM   #110
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

thanks greg!

Bob that would be an 8 hour long youtube video on this fender!

thanks rancho.little too much info Milton hahaha

Farrell this method works for me. but if ya think about the jumping around method on a panel that is 4 by 4 inches your are still gonna heat up the whole area anyway. i love working a panel from one side to the other.i can make the finished work keep going.hard to explain but sometimes you get the right amount of crown /warpage from the heat.this just works for me .

i never seem to get pin wholes with a tig i get occasional pits though. i do a ton of hammer and dolly work on the weld and on the edge of the weld.
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:20 AM   #111
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

well heres another fender that was in nice shape but a hack job of removing the spash pan that was attatched



getting it together





clamped





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Old 06-11-2011, 07:28 AM   #112
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

justa little patch i put in in

this fender is a train wreck but he wants it fixed so fixed it will get









ill show the rest when its gets finished up !
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Old 06-14-2011, 04:43 PM   #113
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mmmmm brass and double paneled...needless to say that got cut out





new holes getting lined up and welded in.measured from 3 different place on a very nice model a fender so it should be pretty close to the right spot



one high spot i see haha.ill take care of that tomorrow

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Old 06-21-2011, 05:50 PM   #114
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

this is good stuff. Nice work, I am gonna be doing a bunch of patch panels soon and this is really helpful.
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Old 06-21-2011, 06:52 PM   #115
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

Very professional Flop...Thanks for sharing your wonderful talent with us here on Fordbarn!

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Old 06-22-2011, 09:37 AM   #116
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Hi Flop, just sent you an E-mail to get a price quote for you to work your magic on my 1930 Model A 4dr sedan rear fenders....Your work is ausome.....Dave
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Old 06-25-2011, 11:26 AM   #117
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

glad i could help ollin

thanks steve!! appreciate the kind words!

hopefully we get to work together soon dave!


heres the finishing touches to the fender

finished up another fender this morning

some more stellar work



patch i made .a little english wheel action on it





last weld on it









badly brazed in



had to put a new pan in it as well.
the ends were really bad they had to be cut out of the fender



and thats where my camera died

but here it is finished up.the customer said the fender was gonna be junk i said naaaah its fixable now he has a perfectly good usable fender!

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Old 06-25-2011, 03:27 PM   #118
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

FLOP...Awsome man!

That is a lost art that many of us do not know what to do!

Simply Awsome!

To bad you are on the East Coast!

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Old 06-25-2011, 07:26 PM   #119
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave27 View Post
Hi Flop, just sent you an E-mail to get a price quote for you to work your magic on my 1930 Model A 4dr sedan rear fenders....Your work is ausome.....Dave

There's a line forming...

I just drove from Winchester VA to Pittsburgh yesterday to drop off my '29 rears to have Flop save them for me.

After the all the paint and filler was taken out when blasted it became even more evident that it was not something I could handle. Maybe I'll see his progress on them here!!
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Old 06-29-2011, 04:27 PM   #120
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work

thanks again steve

yours are next miles!

his fender is another fine specimen of fantastic work





mmm brass and screws!







the bead rod was broke as well





used my bead roller to make the step







next fix the mess and get the pan to fit



just used the break to make the bend and a little shrinker stretcher action to get the curve.



i have to use a paper template to make this i can never get it in one piece ...









only 4 more feet of welding to go haha

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