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Old 09-03-2010, 04:11 PM   #1
LeroyM
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Default How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

This is an update on my earlier post about how to lower a Model A. First I have to give credit to a few people who gave me some tips and tricks on making this whole thing come together. Fordbarner’s NealinCA, kelly’s restoration and H.A.M.B’er Elrod’s post answered a lot of questions I had. Also Fordbarner JM 35 Sedan for letting me have the axle I needed.

My original goal was to lower my Model A coupe but still run mechanical brakes and use the original shocks. I had broken springs so I bought a new reverse eyed front spring from Snyder’s. That lowered the front 1 inch but I still wanted to go lower and the ride with the new springs was very stiff so I took three springs out of the ten leaf pack. The springs I took out were 2, 3 and 4 from the top of the spring pack. This lowered the front another 1 1/4”. I still wasn’t happy with the look and wanted to go lower. To do this I need to do some research and find some hard to find parts.

The parts to go lower were 32-34 spring perches, 32 spindles and a 32-36 axle. Total time to find theses parts were about a month. Once I found the parts everything worked fine with new Model A kingpins and bushings from Mac’s and Model A spring shackles from Snyder’s. Two problems I ran into were bushings for the 32 spring perches. No one makes them so I had to go to the machine shop and get a piece of 3/4” pipe that had a 1/2” inside diameter and drill the center out to 9/16” to allow the Model A shackles to fit. The other problem I had was tie rod ball studs. I did not order any since I thought the Model A tie rod ball studs came off but they do not since they are all one piece.

One other thing that is needed is a 1/4” spacer to go between the axle and wishbone since the 32-36 axle is 2” and the Model A wishbone is 2 1/4”. I looked all over to find theses spacers and ended up finding them at Fastenal. They had to be ordered and were called a extra heavy fender washer that was 1/4” x 1 1/2”. The center hole was 1/4 but a 11/16 drill bit took care of drilling them out to allow them to work for what I needed.

The end result with the new axle brought the front end down another 1 3/4” for a total drop with everything of right at 4” inches lower from stock. With 600x16’s in the front and 700x16’s in the back it puts the look right where I want it which is a late 40’s to early 50’s style look.

I did some measuring and right at the center of the wheel to the bottom lower lip of the fender comes to be 27 1/2" and right in the center of the front radiator apron I have 7 1/2".

Here’s a few pictures I took this afternoon. If anyone has any questions let me know.

Thanks.







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Old 09-03-2010, 04:16 PM   #2
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Fantastic. Looks great, the stance is spot on.
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:56 PM   #3
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

That looks just right ,fantastic information ,My eldest son has just purchased a nice stock 28 coupe with 16 inch wires and wants to get it sitting like yours ,it arrives next week ,so will have to start collecting the parts ,what did you do at the rear spring ?
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Old 09-03-2010, 05:01 PM   #4
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NICE!!!!
Paul in CT
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Old 09-03-2010, 05:58 PM   #5
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Nothing has been done to the rear. The only thing I'm waiting on now is the ball studs from Mac's so I can put my tie rod back on. After that I'm putting my bumpers back on and driving it.
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:22 PM   #6
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

That really makes the 16s fit the car. nice looking coupe. Stance is right on.
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:58 AM   #7
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Lookin' good man! I do love how these babies look lowered.

I just went through my front brakes for some more adjusting and fine tuning again today and also made sure that everything was nice and tight. The modifications are still holding up really well.

Keep us updated on your coupe progress!!

Elrod
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:01 AM   #8
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looks great . i did mine with reversed eye springs & took some leaves out . same out come ............. steve
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:05 AM   #9
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It looks just right. Let us know how it handles.
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:17 AM   #10
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Looks just right. Now I am thinking of doing mine that way.
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Old 09-04-2010, 11:35 AM   #11
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

You must have used a 32-34 front axle, the 35 & later had the perch bolts farther apart because they used a spring that was ahead of the axle. The rear of your coupe looks good as-is. I used a Model T spring on the rear of my pickup to lower it. T springs are narrower and shorter but by stretching them you get a flatter spring, and a lower car.
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:11 PM   #12
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

LeroyM .........................
All that work paid off. Your car looks just GREAT !!
MIKE
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Old 09-04-2010, 02:44 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Jim Brierley View Post
You must have used a 32-34 front axle, the 35 & later had the perch bolts farther apart because they used a spring that was ahead of the axle. The rear of your coupe looks good as-is. I used a Model T spring on the rear of my pickup to lower it. T springs are narrower and shorter but by stretching them you get a flatter spring, and a lower car.
The guy I got the axle from said it came from his low mileage 35 sedan. Everything I've found says the 32-36 axles are all the same other then the 32 heavy axle. The spring perches are what makes the difference. They have to be 32-34 spring perches.
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Old 09-04-2010, 03:08 PM   #14
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Leroy,

Was there any caster change?

Dudley
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Old 09-04-2010, 03:18 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jim Brierley View Post
You must have used a 32-34 front axle, the 35 & later had the perch bolts farther apart because they used a spring that was ahead of the axle. The rear of your coupe looks good as-is. I used a Model T spring on the rear of my pickup to lower it. T springs are narrower and shorter but by stretching them you get a flatter spring, and a lower car.


According to thhe Green Bible, the B3010 axle was used 32-36.

Charlie Stephens
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Old 09-04-2010, 04:09 PM   #16
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Leroy,

Was there any caster change?

Dudley
I won't know until I get my tie rod back on. I'm waiting on the tie rod ball studs to show up from Mac's.
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Old 09-04-2010, 11:17 PM   #17
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looks good leroy. i posted this picture on the hamb i think but here it is again. its all the parts that we discussed and it turned out great, just like yours. Now did you hook up your shocks yet? i have mine sitting on the shelf and didnt know if the dog bones were going to work(end links or what have you)also i put a t spring with one leaf removed on the back of my car and it dropped about 2.5-3 inchestk
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Old 09-05-2010, 06:54 AM   #18
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Big shoes on that horse!
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:00 AM   #19
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Now did you hook up your shocks yet? i have mine sitting on the shelf and didnt know if the dog bones were going to work(end links or what have you).
The shocks hook up and work like they are suppose to. Here's a picture.



Can anyone with photoshop take one of the pictures I have and change the wheel colors to black? I was thinking of changing them but not sure, either that or try and fit wide fives on it. If you can photoshop the wheels black or wide fives that would be great.

Thanks.
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:50 AM   #20
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i guess my only concern now is the shock arm hitting the fender when the suspension goes through its traveltk
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The shocks hook up and work like they are suppose to. Here's a picture.



Can anyone with photoshop take one of the pictures I have and change the wheel colors to black? I was thinking of changing them but not sure, either that or try and fit wide fives on it. If you can photoshop the wheels black or wide fives that would be great.

Thanks.
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:51 AM   #21
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Big shoes on that horse!
525 16 front 25.2 dia800-18 rear 34 diatk
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Old 09-05-2010, 12:12 PM   #22
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i guess my only concern now is the shock arm hitting the fender when the suspension goes through its traveltk
I went out and took some measurements. With the shocks in the natural resting position they are about 5/8" to 3/4" away from the fenders. It looks to me like the shock arms would be going down when in motion and if that is the case there is plenty of room since they get further away from the fenders as they go down.
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Old 09-05-2010, 01:45 PM   #23
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Thanks for sharing. I will pass along the info to a freind who is not yeat a part of Fordbarn past or preasant dispite having a computer and an A. Rod
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:54 PM   #24
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I went out and took some measurements. With the shocks in the natural resting position they are about 5/8" to 3/4" away from the fenders. It looks to me like the shock arms would be going down when in motion and if that is the case there is plenty of room since they get further away from the fenders as they go down.
i am not trying to be a jerk here so please don't take any offence to my questioning but if you hit a bump and the spring compresses i think it will hit the fenders. i went out today and put my shocks on and i am a little concerned about putting dents in them if i hit a rail road crossing or a bumpy intersection. i guess a bit of driving time will tell for us bothtk
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Old 09-05-2010, 08:22 PM   #25
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WoW. Your car sure looks neat. I've got 16 inch wheels on mine, Lowering it would sure improve the appearance. You've just about got me convinced. you did a great job.
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Old 09-05-2010, 08:31 PM   #26
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Can anyone with a stock Model A measure and post how much distance you have between the shock arm and the fender in the resting position?

Once I get my tie rod back on I'll take some speed bumps and ruff roads to see if there is any rub on the fenders with the shocks and post my results.
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Old 09-05-2010, 09:51 PM   #27
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Leroy,

Is this what your looking for?
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:51 PM   #28
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I wanted to do the same thing with my roadster. What I finally did was I got in touch with the guys from Eaton Spring Co. and told them what I wanted to do and asked if they could help. What they came up with was a new spring with three less leaves, the same tension of the stock Model A spring, and a three inch drop. It fit great and the car sits "right", I'm really pleased. It may not be the way they had to do it in the old days, but it worked for me.
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:41 PM   #29
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I wanted to do the same thing with my roadster. What I finally did was I got in touch with the guys from Eaton Spring Co. and told them what I wanted to do and asked if they could help. What they came up with was a new spring with three less leaves, the same tension of the stock Model A spring, and a three inch drop. It fit great and the car sits "right", I'm really pleased. It may not be the way they had to do it in the old days, but it worked for me.
Post a picture Mike if you can, lets see how it looks. The new 10 pack springs are very stiff and I think the Model A's are over sprung anyway for modern roads. Taking 3 leaves out of mine really made a difference in the ride quality.
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:43 PM   #30
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

May i ask WHY would you do that to a Model A???? Doesn't seem like a Model A then??
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:47 PM   #31
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May i ask WHY would you do that to a Model A???? Doesn't seem like a Model A then??
Well to me the Model A is the body style and look. It was very common back in the early 40's to replace the wheels and tires to 16's because of WWII and other size tires being harder to get or come by. I'm sure more then a few Model A's were lowered back then to keep things looking right.

Also being a younger guy, I'm 33 by the way. I'm more into driving the car anywhere and having it ride and look good at the same time more so then trying to match each and everything on the car when it left the factory.

Everything I have done to the car is easy to undo since it's all bolt on. All of the parts I took off will be sitting in the garage. Different strokes for different folks as they say.
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:58 PM   #32
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msmaron, i too am a younger guy(31) and everything i have done can be easily switched to stock by removing a few cotter pins and bolts. This is just an expression of what i want done to my car, not what i do to all the cars we work on.i'll show it to you at park on park in mundelion this week.tk
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Old 09-06-2010, 11:17 PM   #33
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That's perfect! Just what I'm needing to do to my 31 pickup. Thanks for the info.
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Old 09-07-2010, 08:23 AM   #34
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what is it with young guys and 32 axles on model A's im 17 my roadster in the works



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Old 09-12-2010, 10:00 PM   #35
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Your cars look good lowered. I did the same thing, can be converted back to stock very easily. I have been suprised by the purists reactions to it, they all have liked it. Here is mine....

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Old 09-12-2010, 10:27 PM   #36
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19 here yep its got a 32 axle
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:56 AM   #37
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One update.

I got the tie rod ball studs in the mail from Mac's last week and went to put them on over the weekend. Well for the life of me I couldn't get the nut to go up far enough to allow the carter pin to go in. I got a longer pull bar but still no luck. My next step was a piece of pipe over the pull bar. After tightening and tightening I broke the tie rod ball stud off and was still to far away to get to carter pin to go in.

Luckily my dad had a fork to knock out the tie rod ball stud without any damage done to the spindle. What I ended up doing with the other side was to notch the castle nut with a hacksaw blade and only use half a carter pin.

I called Mac's back and ordered another tie rod ball stud and asked were the tie rod ball studs and nuts made in the USA and they said they were. Lesson learned, don't use long pieces of pipe on a pull bar to try and tighten nuts to allow a carter pin to go in and also new things break to.
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:00 AM   #38
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mine have a special real short nut
i lost one of them and had to machine the back off of another castle nut to match the others
tk
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Old 08-23-2012, 02:54 PM   #39
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May i ask WHY would you do that to a Model A???? Doesn't seem like a Model A then??
It is documented that Edsel Ford tried to get his father to design the A to sit lower
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:41 PM   #40
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Smart boy that Edsel. Henry should've listened to him.
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Old 03-10-2015, 07:19 AM   #41
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I would like to know

1: can you use model a perch pins in a 32-36 front axle

2: can use use model a spindles and king pins in a 32-36 front axle?

3:how can you lower a model a rear spring at home besides removing leafs??

4: what year model t rear springs are you guys using? And what years fit
On a model a rear end?

Thank you
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Old 03-10-2015, 07:56 AM   #42
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Wow! It really looks nice. I like the wheels.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:24 PM   #43
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Thought I was on the HAMB here...whoops !
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Old 03-10-2015, 10:24 PM   #44
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I think it looks great!

Denny
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:04 AM   #45
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Hi,
I want to try this. Can you estimate your cost to do this.
Thanks Craig
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:52 PM   #46
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I hate to say it, but I am a little confused (temporary brain fade I hope) about what king pins to use, the 31 or the 32. I have a complete stock 32 front end that I have taken apart, cleaned, painted and put it back together and am going to put it under my 31 RPU with a Posies reversed eye front spring and keeping the stock mechanical brakes. Again, I have read where some say use the 31 kingpins and some say use the 32. Which do I need? If it is the 31, could explain to an old man what the difference is.

Forgot to add that I am using 31 backing plates and drums, not the 32 backing plates or drums

Thanks for your time

Last edited by Judson; 06-30-2016 at 11:13 PM. Reason: left out important information
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:30 AM   #47
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

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Originally Posted by poweredbylincoln View Post
I would like to know

2: can use use model a spindles and king pins in a 32-36 front axle?

Thank you
Anyone who can give an answer on that?

I'd like to use a 33-36 axle with 32 spring perches and 31 brakes&spindles.
Is there an urgent need for 32 spindles?

Greetings
Daniel
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:44 AM   #48
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Why did you want to lower it ? Were you not satisfied with an original looking Model A ? Wayne
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:57 AM   #49
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

The steering arms mount to the top of the Model A spindles and are on
the bottom of the 32 spindles so you need to check for tie rod interference
with the wishbone and frame and see what works best for you.

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Old 09-22-2016, 04:42 PM   #50
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

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looks good leroy. i posted this picture on the hamb i think but here it is again. its all the parts that we discussed and it turned out great, just like yours. Now did you hook up your shocks yet? i have mine sitting on the shelf and didnt know if the dog bones were going to work(end links or what have you)also i put a t spring with one leaf removed on the back of my car and it dropped about 2.5-3 inchestk
Hey guys, I'm trying to find more info on the split steering arms. I have a drop axle in my rpu and the stock steering arm is hitting on the perch. I either need to heat and bend it or find a split set "pictured above". Any info would be helpful.

Thanks
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Old 09-22-2016, 06:47 PM   #51
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

You can use the A spindles by cutting the balls off and welding in new ones from the other side.Or drill and tapered ream. Weld in and bolt in balls are available from most suppliers.

The tapered bolt in ones are 32 so the Model A parts guys mightn't have them. You can get them from Mac's.
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:49 AM   #52
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

32-34 axle, 32-34 spindles, Model A King Pins, 32-34 spring perches, Model A brake actuators, 32-34 Brakes. Works great.
I don't know what to use if you use Model A brakes.
The 32-34 King pins are at the wrong angle as are the actuators.
I just did this swap and getting ready to do another one.
You also need to make up a 5/8 spacer to put under the leaf spring if you run a reverse
eye front spring with less leaves, I used the one from Speedway.
And yes you can use the Model A spring perches if you use hydraulic brakes.
Mechanicals need the 32-34
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Old 09-23-2016, 11:08 AM   #53
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You can use the A spindles by cutting the balls off and welding in new ones from the other side.Or drill and tapered ream. Weld in and bolt in balls are available from most suppliers.

The tapered bolt in ones are 32 so the Model A parts guys mightn't have them. You can get them from Mac's.

Thanks for the info!
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Old 09-23-2016, 11:12 AM   #54
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Thanks for the info, I have an extra steering arm i might attempt to heat and bend. Possibly shorten it if needed to keep the original drag link length for lock to lock steering. If I find a way that works I will post picks. I'm running a 2 1/4" drop A axle, modified A perches, A kingpins, A spindles, original front A spring and A mechanical brakes and modern tube shocks.
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:22 PM   #55
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Just to confuse a little more. Here is my "A" dropped axle with stock spindles and mech. brakes and stock spring perches. I had to flip the balls so to speak to clear steering rod between wheels.
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:29 PM   #56
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Just to confuse a little more. Here is my "A" dropped axle with stock spindles and mech. brakes and stock spring perches. I had to flip the balls so to speak to clear steering rod between wheels.
Thanks for the info and pics zzlegend. That is exactly what I was thinking I would have to do. It helps to see what needs to happen. Also, did you use a shortened tie rod as your drag link to get the correct angles from the pitman arm?
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:42 PM   #57
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Thanks for the info and pics zzlegend. That is exactly what I was thinking I would have to do. It helps to see what needs to happen. Also, did you use a shortened tie rod as your drag link to get the correct angles from the pitman arm?
Yes. Made an adjustable one and also installed a new short pitmen arm from Bert's model a. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-24-2016, 06:36 PM   #58
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

My '29 cabriolet has the original front axle dropped 2-1/2", a reversed eye front spring, and revered eye rear spring. ...a few other changes, but still running a touring built Model A motor.



Purchased new in November 1929 by my father. Original color was Andalusite Blue, now with a little of the black pigment pulled out of the old PPG formula.

I have not previously posted a full shot of the car, but since others have posted pics of their modified, lowered A's and this is not a street rod, I guess it is OK in this instance.
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:55 AM   #59
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Great looking Cab! It's more than Okay!

Keep 4-Banging!
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:48 PM   #60
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

ZZlegend What shocks are those?
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Old 09-27-2016, 02:33 PM   #61
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ZZlegend What shocks are those?
60's MGB
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Old 09-27-2016, 04:39 PM   #62
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Are these the ones that just bolt on? Do you have a specific year?
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:47 PM   #63
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Yes Tiny. These have the same identical bolt pattern as a stock "A" has. And these usually go by the name "Armstrong" which is stamped on them. I just had to rebend the arms a little and welded on the shock balls. If I recall right, MGA's will also work but the bolt pattern is about 1/4" narrower. So redrilling is required. As for year,,,,,,,,,,,,Not sure exactly. I have another set like this and traded a narrower set to a friend. He drilled and mounted and is using them now.
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:56 PM   #64
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Thank you. Now the hunt begins
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:33 PM   #65
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Just look on epay http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=...ds=&rmvSB=true

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Old 09-27-2016, 07:10 PM   #66
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Yep, that's where I got mine about 7 years ago. Tiny just ask questions if you find a set. Mainly about the bolt spacing.
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Old 10-12-2016, 06:34 PM   #67
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Great thread. I am in the planning and parts collecting stages of doing a 20-25 T roadster on an A chassis and plan to lower this way but have a question about my combo. I plan to use the A wishbone with a 32-36 axle, 32-34 perches, 32-34 spindles, 1932 brakes. I have a couple sets of 32 actuators and just bought 32-34 king pin set. Can this work together? Basically I thought I could hook onto the 32 actuators with the A rods since everything ahead of the rod is 32-34 I figured it will work together but wanted to check. Thanks fellas. PS, hoping to find a decent B motor to mount in front of my 32 trans with Zephyr gears.
Thanks,
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Old 10-12-2016, 06:49 PM   #68
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

U might want to go over to the HAMB to ask these questions.................

Paul in CT
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:23 PM   #69
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Hi Paul,
Thanks for the reply. I thought this question fit right in with the thread. I am collecting and using all original Ford parts. Granted, I am not restoring to the way it came from the factory but I didnt think this was strictly a restorers site. Besides, most of you guys are really in tune with the early Ford parts.
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:23 PM   #70
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

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Great thread. I am in the planning and parts collecting stages of doing a 20-25 T roadster on an A chassis and plan to lower this way but have a question about my combo. I plan to use the A wishbone with a 32-36 axle, 32-34 perches, 32-34 spindles, 1932 brakes. I have a couple sets of 32 actuators and just bought 32-34 king pin set. Can this work together? Basically I thought I could hook onto the 32 actuators with the A rods since everything ahead of the rod is 32-34 I figured it will work together but wanted to check. Thanks fellas. PS, hoping to find a decent B motor to mount in front of my 32 trans with Zephyr gears.
Thanks,
Scott
i suspect so, but i'm not 100% sure. As far as i know (because i was researching the same thing about 18 months ago) that can be made to work but you might need spacer washers in the wishbone-axle area. But i could be thinking that was for an earlier axle altogether...
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Old 10-12-2016, 08:33 PM   #71
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

I think you may have a problem with the 32 king pins and actuators as the 32 brake rods go to the center of the car where as the Model A rods run along the frame. If you mount up the 32 parts it looks like the brake rods will hit the spring perch if they
go straight back.

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Old 10-12-2016, 09:06 PM   #72
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Thanks Bob. I am in the garage now playing around with this set up and I think youre right. So if I get model A actuators and kingpins I should still be able to run the 32 front brakes though right?
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Old 10-13-2016, 08:15 AM   #73
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Scott, you can use what you have just swap the king pins and I believe the actuators to the oppsite side. The actuators will need the arm removed and inverted so that when connected to the brake rod they work properly. To understand this the actuator needs to push the brake pin down when the actuator arm is pulled back. The kin pins need moved to the oppsite side so the actuators line up ok. I did this on my roadster years ago.
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Old 10-13-2016, 08:32 AM   #74
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

Like to join in with another question: What is the reason for use the 32 spindles and spring perches? As far as I know they are the same until the spring moves forward the axle. Guess in 1935? In other words: is the entire 32-34 suitable to lower a 31 model A and a simple bolt on? Same for 35/36 axles with 32-34 spring perches?

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Old 10-24-2016, 09:00 AM   #75
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

I'm putting this setup together for my 30 roadster. 1934 axle, 1932 perch pins, 1932 spindles, 1931 king pins, 1931 actuator, 1931 brakes. Only mocked up right now but everything looks ok.
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:51 AM   #76
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Yes. Made an adjustable one and also installed a new short pitmen arm from Bert's model a. Hope this helps.
This helps out a lot zzlegend! Now I just need to set the engine in the frame and get ride height to make the accurate bends and setup my split wishbones!
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:13 PM   #77
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Trying to fit my 32 actuators but something seems wrong. Can someone look at pics and help me to understand why this isnt working. My actuators seem too long. When the actuator is in the king pin ball the threaded hole/boss in actuator is probably half to .750" too far away.
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:29 AM   #78
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

If both sides are the same something might not be correct. If it is just one side check to see if the perch matches the other side. Might have to heat and adjust the perch mount. I had to do this to mine but the acuators were not as far away from the perch mount as yours.
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Old 02-19-2017, 07:45 AM   #79
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

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Trying to fit my 32 actuators but something seems wrong. Can someone look at pics and help me to understand why this isnt working. My actuators seem too long. When the actuator is in the king pin ball the threaded hole/boss in actuator is probably half to .750" too far away.
Looks like the actuators and kingpins are on the wrong ends of the axle. Swap sides and put the arms up instead of down. Also the arms are riveted to the shaft backwards. The arms should be UP and OUTWARD, so they clear the shocks. OUTWARD means slanted toward the backing plates.

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Old 02-19-2017, 09:00 AM   #80
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One more thing I noticed is there is no lock bolt to position the king pin. Are you sure it is in the right position. And as Tom said if this is for a Model A and not a 32 the acuating arms should be in the upwards position. See my post #73.
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Old 02-19-2017, 11:56 AM   #81
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Those are 1932 actuators and the arms go down.

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Old 02-20-2017, 12:44 PM   #82
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Thanks for the replies guys. Bob C is correct. These are 1932 actuators and the arm goes down. They are also 1932-34 king pins, which have the 'cup' offset differently than A and have the lock groove in a different orientation than the A parts. I have model A king pins and Model A actuators which fit and work as intended but the '32 actuators that I have are much nicer condition than the A actuators which is why I wanted to try and use the 1932 parts. I am going to give it another go maybe tonight. I left the king pin lock bolt out so that I could rotate the kingpin after I had the actuator installed in the cup.

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Old 02-21-2017, 08:56 AM   #83
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

[QUOTE=Scott F.;1431939]Thanks for the replies guys. Bob C is correct. These are 1932 actuators and the arm goes down. They are also 1932-34 king pins, which have the 'cup' offset differently than A and have the lock groove in a different orientation than the A parts. I have model A king pins and Model A actuators which fit and work as intended but the '32 actuators that I have are much nicer condition than the A actuators which is why I wanted to try and use the 1932 parts. I am going to give it another go maybe tonight. I left the king pin lock bolt out so that I could rotate the kingpin after I had the actuator installed in the cup.

You are making this way too hard. Nice model a actuators are easy to come by and fit without the fuss. Well, maybe a little fuss, the bolt length on the model a actuator isn't long enuff to get a washer behind the nut, so you really need to grind a little off the sides of the perch pin boss.
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Old 08-21-2017, 09:57 AM   #84
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

First of all, I want to thank LeroyM for this thread. It was instrumental in the dropping of my '29 Tudor.
I wanted to do a late 30's/early 40's style "banger build" with my '29 Tudor. The idea being that I would use what would have been available in that era and still maintain the mechanical brakes. Whether someone was doing dropped axles, back then, I have no idea. I have been unable to find any info on it if there was. So here's what I did...

I was able to find and purchase a n.o.s. 1935 front axle, out of Minnesota. I found a nice pair of '32 front spindles as well as a new pair of '32 front spring perches. I then bought a new set of Model A king pins and spring shackles. I was able to find a trailer parts store in Missouri that sold the proper size spring bushings, 9/16 i.d. x 3/4" o.d. x 1 3/4" long. I reused my Model A brake actuators, backing plates and brakes. I had already installed a reverse eye main leaf and removed #2, #3 & #4 leaf's when I put on the 6:00x16's Firestone bia's ply tires but like LeroyM, I wanted it lower.

So, there it is! I love the stance and it rides and handles great. Thanks again, LeroyM, for all the information.
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Old 08-21-2017, 10:30 AM   #85
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...So, there it is! ...
Looking good, @1stGrumpy!
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Old 08-21-2017, 11:01 AM   #86
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Good looking hot rod :-) One question/ comment, the cooling fan looks like it could cause problems. The new two blade fans are a good replacement!
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Old 08-21-2017, 11:29 AM   #87
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Looks good. I like it.
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:38 PM   #88
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Looking good, @1stGrumpy!
Thank you, Dannerr.
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:40 PM   #89
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Good looking hot rod :-) One question/ comment, the cooling fan looks like it could cause problems. The new two blade fans are a good replacement!
Good eye, Big hammer. I am having heating issues and the waterpump leaks and has a pretty good wobble to it.
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:41 PM   #90
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

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Looks good. I like it.
Thank you, LeroyM. Your thread was a lot of help to me.
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Old 08-19-2018, 02:41 PM   #91
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I received my front axle. Now the gather the rest of the stuff to do this.
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Old 08-20-2018, 09:45 AM   #92
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Here's a before and after using the Old Yankee Speed Co "Hot Rod" spring and their main leaf reverse eye leaf on a stock front spring.
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File Type: jpg model a.jpg (58.1 KB, 117 views)
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Old 08-20-2018, 04:08 PM   #93
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First of all, I want to thank LeroyM for this thread. It was instrumental in the dropping of my '29 Tudor.
I wanted to do a late 30's/early 40's style "banger build" with my '29 Tudor. The idea being that I would use what would have been available in that era and still maintain the mechanical brakes. Whether someone was doing dropped axles, back then, I have no idea. I have been unable to find any info on it if there was. So here's what I did...

I was able to find and purchase a n.o.s. 1935 front axle, out of Minnesota. I found a nice pair of '32 front spindles as well as a new pair of '32 front spring perches. I then bought a new set of Model A king pins and spring shackles. I was able to find a trailer parts store in Missouri that sold the proper size spring bushings, 9/16 i.d. x 3/4" o.d. x 1 3/4" long. I reused my Model A brake actuators, backing plates and brakes. I had already installed a reverse eye main leaf and removed #2, #3 & #4 leaf's when I put on the 6:00x16's Firestone bia's ply tires but like LeroyM, I wanted it lower.

So, there it is! I love the stance and it rides and handles great. Thanks again, LeroyM, for all the information.

I'm curious about caster? Some hot rodders and Model A owners are putting a 2" block under their bell housing to increase caster and this makes for very steady driving on motorways etc., However, if you lower the front of the car to improve its stance, then it will have the effect of reducing the caster, this in turn should affect the cars directional stability?
Anybody had this experience?
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:23 AM   #94
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I'm curious about caster? Some hot rodders and Model A owners are putting a 2" block under their bell housing to increase caster and this makes for very steady driving on motorways etc., However, if you lower the front of the car to improve its stance, then it will have the effect of reducing the caster, this in turn should affect the cars directional stability?
Anybody had this experience?
wensum... Sorry that I don't have any pictures that show the radius rod but I have a Clings V8 transmission adapter in my '29, it has a custom mount for the radius rod ball to set in which does mount the ball lower than original. Never have measured the difference. My '29 handles well with this set up.
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Old 09-02-2018, 03:36 PM   #95
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wensum... Sorry that I don't have any pictures that show the radius rod but I have a Clings V8 transmission adapter in my '29, it has a custom mount for the radius rod ball to set in which does mount the ball lower than original. Never have measured the difference. My '29 handles well with this set up.


My chassis and suspension were set up by Macs Speed shop and he cut the radius arms near the axle and re-welded them giving 6-7 degrees caster. This certainly gives finger-light steering on motorways, but I think it makes it a bit heavier on tight corners.
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Old 09-04-2018, 11:44 AM   #96
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Just in the process of gathering parts as well to lower my 29 rpu. Thanks for the posters comments.
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Old 09-04-2018, 10:25 PM   #97
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My '32-'36 axle and wishbone are at the powder coaters now. New spring Perches from Snyder's. I have the 1/4" thick fender washers to take up the slack between the axle and wishbone. Gonna have to buy an 11/16" drill bit to finish them. Next I will order my new spring from Posies Super Slider springs for front and rear. While waiting for the springs my backing plates will go to the powder coater. Spindles and brake drums will get a bath in Parkerizing juice. Its getting close.
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Old 09-05-2018, 01:19 AM   #98
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... New spring Perches from Snyder's...
Have Snyders begun selling '32 perches?

Can you take pictures, as you start on this?
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Old 09-05-2018, 11:19 AM   #99
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I got my 1932 perches from Bob Drake. https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.as...1-77ece712bd3a


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Old 09-06-2018, 01:40 PM   #100
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Have Snyders begun selling '32 perches?

Can you take pictures, as you start on this?
I am using "A" perches.
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Old 09-06-2018, 01:48 PM   #101
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Why did you want to lower it ? Were you not satisfied with an original looking Model A ? Wayne
My Model "A" is not an original and it would be cost prohibitive for me to restore it. I am happy having my Model "A" my way.

Different strokes for different folks.
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Old 09-06-2018, 02:17 PM   #102
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Just let air out of the tires. Easy Peasy.
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Old 09-07-2018, 12:04 AM   #103
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Just let air out of the tires. Easy Peasy.
I'd like to see you drive your car with four flat tires.
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Old 09-07-2018, 07:49 AM   #104
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Well...It could be done.
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Old 09-07-2018, 12:57 PM   #105
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I have a complete stock 32 front end that I have taken apart, cleaned, painted and put it back together and am going to put it under my 31 RPU with a Posies reversed eye front spring and keeping the stock mechanical brakes.
I just called Posies. They don't offer reversed eye springs. They make a totally new spring which will sit your car at the height you want it.
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Old 09-07-2018, 01:31 PM   #106
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At www.fastenal.com I found the 1/4"x 1.5" fender washers in Stainless Steel. A little polishing will make them pop. :-) Item number 0172787 1/4" x 1.500" OD Grade 18-8 Stainless Steel Fender Washer
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Old 09-07-2018, 04:17 PM   #107
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Those are only 1/16" thick. Nominal Thickness 0.062"


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Old 09-08-2018, 02:05 AM   #108
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Those are only 1/16" thick. Nominal Thickness 0.062"


Bob
Bib,
How do you figure that a washer that measures 1/4" x 1.5" are only 1/16th thick?
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Old 09-08-2018, 08:37 AM   #109
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Default Re: How To Lower The Model A The Old Fashion Way

There's someone on the thread below looking for suggestions on what to use for an inexpensive modern 16 inch tire.


If you have suggestions, respond to him.


Thanks






https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250863
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Old 09-08-2018, 10:31 AM   #110
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Read the specs.


Product Attributes
Inner Diameter 0.281"
Outer Diameter 1.500"
Grade 18-8
Finish Plain
Bolt Size 1/4"
Material Stainless Steel
Type Fender Washer
System of Measurement Imperial (Inch)
Nominal Thickness 0.062"
Product Weight 0.0285
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Old 09-09-2018, 02:31 AM   #111
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Read the specs.


Product Attributes
Inner Diameter 0.281"
Outer Diameter 1.500"
Grade 18-8
Finish Plain
Bolt Size 1/4"
Material Stainless Steel
Type Fender Washer
System of Measurement Imperial (Inch)
Nominal Thickness 0.062"
Product Weight 0.0285
So I googled Nominal Deminsion meaning and got this. "Approximate or roughcut dimension by which a material is generally called or sold in trade, but which differs from the actual dimension.

Read more: http://www.businessdictionary.com/definition/nominal-dimension.html"
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:37 AM   #112
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So I googled Nominal Deminsion meaning and got this. "Approximate or roughcut dimension by which a material is generally called or sold in trade, but which differs from the actual dimension.

Read more: http://www.businessdictionary.com/definition/nominal-dimension.html"
Did not know that. An example would be buying 2 x 4 lumber - are not 2 x 4.
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:12 AM   #113
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Bib,
How do you figure that a washer that measures 1/4" x 1.5" are only 1/16th thick?
If you read the entire list of specs you'll see the 1/4" refers to the "nominal" hole/bolt size (not thickness) as 1/4"
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Old 09-09-2018, 01:59 PM   #114
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If you read the entire list of specs you'll see the 1/4" refers to the "nominal" hole/bolt size (not thickness) as 1/4"
It does not refer to the hole size. I don't understand what about the size of 1/4" x 1.5" is so hard for you to comprehend.

As you can see the washer is 1/4" thick.
1.5" across.
Has a 1/4" hole in the center.
To be used as a spacer the 1/4" hole must be enlarged to 11/16"
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Old 09-09-2018, 02:49 PM   #115
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OK, I don't know what to say. The first link is to the part number you gave and
the second link is to the specs for the stainless washers. Glad they are what you wanted.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0172787?fsi=1
https://www.fastenal.com/content/pro...FEND.SS.00.pdf


These are the ones I got. https://www.grainger.com/product/5TA...rders_WillCall


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Old 09-10-2018, 01:41 AM   #116
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I just called Posies. They don't offer reversed eye springs. They make a totally new spring which will sit your car at the height you want it.

-
Is this something new? I would guess that in the past they have sold far more reversed eye springs than conventional ones(?).
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Old 09-10-2018, 02:59 AM   #117
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McMaster Carr has the correct size washers. Center hole, outside diameter and thickness.
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:11 PM   #118
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Bob,
I opted for Stainless. I just had my axle and wishbone powder coated and I don't want to wind up with rusty washers.
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:11 PM   #119
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McMaster Carr has the correct size washers. Center hole, outside diameter and thickness.
They sell washers that already have the 11/16" center hole?
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:59 PM   #120
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I am still in the process of gathering parts for this. I have the '32-'36 front axle, '46 spindles and brakes. Now is the time for gathering hardware. Specifically the King Pins and Kit. Which should I use?
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Old 04-02-2019, 01:51 AM   #121
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Yes, McMaster Carr has the correct ones I.D. is 11/16
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:25 PM   #122
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I am still in the process of gathering parts for this. I have the '32-'36 front axle, '46 spindles and brakes. Now is the time for gathering hardware. Specifically the King Pins and Kit. Which should I use?
Here, (as wherever possible) you want to use the king pin kit to match the spindles you are using so that the kingpins are the right length and the slot for the locking pin is in the proper location. The 46 spindles will bolt onto the Model A axle using the 46 kingpins and the bearing placed on the bottom as it was originally for '46.

Do you have a plan for steering? Shocks? Rear brakes? Master cylinder, etc., etc.. Lots involved in this changeover.
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:37 PM   #123
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Do you have a plan for steering? Shocks? Rear brakes? Master cylinder, etc., etc.. Lots involved in this changeover.
My car already has the '46-'48 juice brakes and spindles on the "A" axle. I will just be changing out the A for the '32-'36. The steering has already been adapted. I am using Armstrong shocks.
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Old 04-03-2019, 02:49 AM   #124
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OK, makes sense now. Also I meant to say: "The 46 spindles will bolt onto the '32-'36 axle using the 46 kingpins and the bearing placed on the bottom as it was originally for '46."

What do you have now for kingpins - they should work the same on the '32-36 axle(?)
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Old 04-03-2019, 08:21 AM   #125
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Nothing has been done to the rear. The only thing I'm waiting on now is the ball studs from Mac's so I can put my tie rod back on. After that I'm putting my bumpers back on and driving it.
Are you still running mechanical brakes? Do you notice a difference after lowering?
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:32 AM   #126
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No I'm running hydraulic brakes now. 40 Ford up front and early Ford bronco on the rear of a 9". There was no difference on stopping power before or after going with hydraulic brakes. When I ran mechanical brakes I was using the floater style brakes from Flat Head Ted.


I went with hydraulic brakes because I upgraded my power train to. 283 V8, T5, Ford 9" rear. I can cruise 65 mph at 1,800 rpm and I'm getting 18 to 19 mpg.
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