03-30-2018, 07:37 AM | #21 |
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Location: Marana Arizona
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Re: running hot
" I believe I have timed it correctly using the tool that fits on distributor rotor and turning it til it hits number 4 plug lead post. forgot the name of the tool."
If your referring to the "Nu-Rex" tool, here is a how to... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGAKWX158H8 |
03-30-2018, 10:08 AM | #22 | |
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Re: running hot
Quote:
thankyou Arizona |
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03-30-2018, 10:22 AM | #23 |
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Re: running hot
If your radiator was really rodded out and all clear, it will flow more than the pump can put out. No need to cut the impeller down. That just makes it a lower output pump.
Make sure that you don't have a heavy coat of paint on the fins. Make sure that timing is correct and you are not running real lean. |
03-30-2018, 10:27 AM | #24 | |
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Re: running hot
Quote:
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03-30-2018, 10:34 AM | #25 | |
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Re: running hot
Quote:
yes there are other problems John. pinging when accelerating. I haven't mentioned this problem and shant until I replace the faulty push rods to the distributor. the other problem that has driven me crazy is rattly floor, made up of tongue and grove timber. however this was solved when I found a wheel spanner hiding in an inconspicuous place behind my seat back. with thanks, gary mexted |
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03-30-2018, 10:58 AM | #26 |
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Re: running hot
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03-30-2018, 02:15 PM | #27 |
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Re: running hot
I think John Buckley is correct, you have a leaking head gasket and the combustion gases are building up in the block and pushing the water up and out the overflow pipe. This will happen even when the motor is cool. Are there any bubbles coming up in the radiator fill that you can see when the car is running and the cap is off?
You may need to change the head gasket, check for flat head surface and use Permatex spray head gasket sealer and torque the head many times as the engine heats up. Ed Ed |
03-30-2018, 05:11 PM | #28 | |
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Re: running hot
Quote:
The infrared thermometers have their pluses and minuses. Hard to go wrong with a cheap meat thermometer placed directly into the water of the radiator.
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03-30-2018, 06:25 PM | #29 |
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Re: running hot
Water entering the combustion chamber can give a sound like pinging - another indicator of a bad head gasket. Have you done a compression test? Are you getting excessive water vapour out of the exhaust? How long has it been since you re torqued the head?
I'm leaning towards a blown head gasket. Do you have a spare? Do you have a torque wrench? Sorry for so many questions but the more we know, the better the advice.
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03-30-2018, 09:40 PM | #30 |
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Re: running hot
To go along with 1crosscut, When you drive where do you move the spark lever?
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03-31-2018, 01:59 AM | #31 |
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Re: running hot
My engine had perfect timing, but pinged until I cleaned the block. All the junk built up in the rear of the block caused a hot spot, then while driving 45 to 50 on the freeway for 40 miles, some of that junk came loose and blocked the radiator tubes.
After flushing the block and radiator, it's fine now. And you can't flush it with a garden hose. Do a search to see how I flushed mine. |
03-31-2018, 09:45 AM | #32 |
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Re: running hot
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ug01EW7UZGM
Watch this video to understand the Model A cooling system. Lots of voodoo ideas out there that will only make your problem worse. If you are pinging, you are likely pulling your advance down too far. Keep lifting the spark handle a click or two until it doesn't ping. Not likely coolant getting INTO the combustion chamber, if it was that bad you would have steam out the exhaust. Tighten/retorque head often until no movement of head nuts. Let the coolant find its level, just make sure it stays just above the tubes. A restriction in the upper radiator hose (thermostat) will raise the pressure slightly in the engine block, therefore raising your boiling/flash point. Don't grind down the water pump impeller, turbulence in the coolant is a GOOD thing. Good Luck, don't jump to the worst conclusion, troubleshoot and diagnose first.
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03-31-2018, 06:08 PM | #33 | |
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Re: running hot
Quote:
Agree on not grinding down the impeller. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the Model A cross fire between #3 and #4. That can give pinging and cause overheating as well as a drop in power. I know, I've experienced it and it took a while for me to wake up to what the problem was. Your cure may as simple as a new distributor body or as I did on the side of the road when I did wake up, a long enough plug lead on #3 to give a big insulating air gap between the body and lead so the cross fire doesn't happen. That fix got me 800 miles home, then a new body went on. Sweet as a nut since.
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10-16-2018, 10:38 PM | #34 |
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Re: running hot
Well I fixed the problem. Bought new radiators for each car. One pressurised and one normal. The temp cannot be read on the pressurised ( I don't have a dedicated gauge) but on the normal one with the thermometer on the radiator cap the red dye only just showed when on an extensive climb. I'm pleased I went that way.
Both cars were fitted with new head gaskets and had any rust scrapped from the head and block. Fitted the return flow with socks and they each caught a good table spoon of rust flake. That was better than returning it to new radiators. I should have done purchased new radiators much earlier. gary
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