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Old 03-30-2018, 07:37 AM   #21
chap52
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Default Re: running hot

" I believe I have timed it correctly using the tool that fits on distributor rotor and turning it til it hits number 4 plug lead post. forgot the name of the tool."

If your referring to the "Nu-Rex" tool, here is a how to... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGAKWX158H8
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:08 AM   #22
woofa.express
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Default Re: running hot

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Originally Posted by chap52 View Post
" I believe I have timed it correctly using the tool that fits on distributor rotor and turning it til it hits number 4 plug lead post. forgot the name of the tool."

If your referring to the "Nu-Rex" tool, here is a how to... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGAKWX158H8


thankyou Arizona
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:22 AM   #23
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Default Re: running hot

If your radiator was really rodded out and all clear, it will flow more than the pump can put out. No need to cut the impeller down. That just makes it a lower output pump.
Make sure that you don't have a heavy coat of paint on the fins. Make sure that timing is correct and you are not running real lean.
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:27 AM   #24
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Default Re: running hot

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woofa,
I don't have a thermostat, yet, but after a short drive (3 or 4 miles) I use an infrared thermometer to check temps. I usually find the front of the head around 145F, the rear about 150F and the lower hose pipe about 125F. Infrared thermometers can be found online for less than $20 US. You should borrow or buy one to verify what the motor is doing.
thankyou for that. I didn't know that such a thing existed however I have seen an attendant at a super market walking around 'shooting' refrigerated products. I ordered same within 5 minutes of reading your response and I am grateful for that. thankyou, gary.
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:34 AM   #25
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Default Re: running hot

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Wooofa, Are there any other symptoms that it's running hot other than water overflowing? ? If it runs Ok but water is pushed out it could be as has been suggested 1) possibly running within correct temp range but the expansion of the water is causing it to come out of theoverflow.? ( neverfill above the baffle of the rad when cold ) 2) over-turbulence of waterpump 3) small leak in the cylinder head gasket causing some pressure in the water system .. head needs retorquing several times after gasket replacement or head off. [I've experienced 1) and 3) with my years of A-ing but never 2) ]


yes there are other problems John. pinging when accelerating. I haven't mentioned this problem and shant until I replace the faulty push rods to the distributor.
the other problem that has driven me crazy is rattly floor, made up of tongue and grove timber. however this was solved when I found a wheel spanner hiding in an inconspicuous place behind my seat back.


with thanks, gary mexted
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:58 AM   #26
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About those infrared thermometers: They are fantastic, but... Please note that they sense reflected/radiated heat, from the surface you point them at. That surface is what reflects/radiates the heat. For example, a flat black surface will reflect/radiate heat more readily than will a white surface. A flat surface will reflect better than a rough or angular surface. This can fool you if you are not careful. Move it around a bit, and take the highest reading you can get out of it as the closest to what is the actual heat. Many people get fooled by this issue... (I use one on HVAC systems, and generally spray some flat black paint on whatever I'm checking, or apply black tape. Makes a huge difference sometimes.)
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Old 03-30-2018, 02:15 PM   #27
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Default Re: running hot

I think John Buckley is correct, you have a leaking head gasket and the combustion gases are building up in the block and pushing the water up and out the overflow pipe. This will happen even when the motor is cool. Are there any bubbles coming up in the radiator fill that you can see when the car is running and the cap is off?
You may need to change the head gasket, check for flat head surface and use Permatex spray head gasket sealer and torque the head many times as the engine heats up. Ed



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Old 03-30-2018, 05:11 PM   #28
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Default Re: running hot

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Originally Posted by woofa.express View Post
yes there are other problems John. pinging when accelerating. I haven't mentioned this problem and shant until I replace the faulty push rods to the distributor.
the other problem that has driven me crazy is rattly floor, made up of tongue and grove timber. however this was solved when I found a wheel spanner hiding in an inconspicuous place behind my seat back.


with thanks, gary mexted
If your pinging under acceleration something is probably not right with the timing or with how much you are advancing it.
The infrared thermometers have their pluses and minuses. Hard to go wrong with a cheap meat thermometer placed directly into the water of the radiator.
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Old 03-30-2018, 06:25 PM   #29
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Default Re: running hot

Water entering the combustion chamber can give a sound like pinging - another indicator of a bad head gasket. Have you done a compression test? Are you getting excessive water vapour out of the exhaust? How long has it been since you re torqued the head?
I'm leaning towards a blown head gasket. Do you have a spare? Do you have a torque wrench?
Sorry for so many questions but the more we know, the better the advice.
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:40 PM   #30
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Default Re: running hot

To go along with 1crosscut, When you drive where do you move the spark lever?
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Old 03-31-2018, 01:59 AM   #31
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Default Re: running hot

My engine had perfect timing, but pinged until I cleaned the block. All the junk built up in the rear of the block caused a hot spot, then while driving 45 to 50 on the freeway for 40 miles, some of that junk came loose and blocked the radiator tubes.


After flushing the block and radiator, it's fine now. And you can't flush it with a garden hose. Do a search to see how I flushed mine.
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Old 03-31-2018, 09:45 AM   #32
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Default Re: running hot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ug01EW7UZGM
Watch this video to understand the Model A cooling system. Lots of voodoo ideas out there that will only make your problem worse. If you are pinging, you are likely pulling your advance down too far. Keep lifting the spark handle a click or two until it doesn't ping. Not likely coolant getting INTO the combustion chamber, if it was that bad you would have steam out the exhaust. Tighten/retorque head often until no movement of head nuts. Let the coolant find its level, just make sure it stays just above the tubes. A restriction in the upper radiator hose (thermostat) will raise the pressure slightly in the engine block, therefore raising your boiling/flash point. Don't grind down the water pump impeller, turbulence in the coolant is a GOOD thing. Good Luck, don't jump to the worst conclusion, troubleshoot and diagnose first.
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Old 03-31-2018, 06:08 PM   #33
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Default Re: running hot

Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle View Post
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ug01EW7UZGM
Watch this video to understand the Model A cooling system. Lots of voodoo ideas out there that will only make your problem worse. If you are pinging, you are likely pulling your advance down too far. Keep lifting the spark handle a click or two until it doesn't ping. Not likely coolant getting INTO the combustion chamber, if it was that bad you would have steam out the exhaust. Tighten/retorque head often until no movement of head nuts. Let the coolant find its level, just make sure it stays just above the tubes. A restriction in the upper radiator hose (thermostat) will raise the pressure slightly in the engine block, therefore raising your boiling/flash point. Don't grind down the water pump impeller, turbulence in the coolant is a GOOD thing. Good Luck, don't jump to the worst conclusion, troubleshoot and diagnose first.
That's right and by the time you had enough vapour coming out the exhaust to see it, you'd be seeing bubbles in the top tank. A look at plugs will tell you if water is entering the cylinder. A clean plug indicates water.
Agree on not grinding down the impeller.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the Model A cross fire between #3 and #4. That can give pinging and cause overheating as well as a drop in power. I know, I've experienced it and it took a while for me to wake up to what the problem was. Your cure may as simple as a new distributor body or as I did on the side of the road when I did wake up, a long enough plug lead on #3 to give a big insulating air gap between the body and lead so the cross fire doesn't happen. That fix got me 800 miles home, then a new body went on. Sweet as a nut since.
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Old 10-16-2018, 10:38 PM   #34
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Default Re: running hot

Well I fixed the problem. Bought new radiators for each car. One pressurised and one normal. The temp cannot be read on the pressurised ( I don't have a dedicated gauge) but on the normal one with the thermometer on the radiator cap the red dye only just showed when on an extensive climb. I'm pleased I went that way.
Both cars were fitted with new head gaskets and had any rust scrapped from the head and block. Fitted the return flow with socks and they each caught a good table spoon of rust flake. That was better than returning it to new radiators. I should have done purchased new radiators much earlier. gary
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