How much grease in U-Joint cavity

[qmdv]

I bought some corn head grease for the u-joint cavity. This is an initial fill. I pumped about 3/4 of a tube in already. I read someplace (maybe here) that you pump it in tell it shows up at the speedometer driven gear opening.

Seams like a lot so far and it has not shown up yet

[ford38v8]

That sounds like a good tell, and would like to hear other methods myself, but what i have done is to jam as much as will go on the U and in the shells before the shell goes together (messy!), then continue to pump more in after assembly. Not knowing how much is there, when greasing, this is one zerk that gets many more shots than most.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

That sounds like a good tell, and would like to hear other methods myself, but what i have done is to jam as much as will go on the U and in the shells before the shell goes together (messy!), then continue to pump more in after assembly. Not knowing how much is there, when greasing, this is one zerk that gets many more shots than most.

Same thing I do.

[qmdv]

I put it all together with only white lithium grease pushed into the bearing area. I will keep pumping in the morning. I have dissembled running vehicles decades ago and was surprised at how little grease was in there.

[Clem Clement]

pump on

[Lawrie]

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There is no drama if you pump too much in,it will just end up in the transmission.
Lawrie

[redmodelt]

I would do it the same way as with a Model A, take the speedo drive off and pump till it starts coming out the hole and a little more. I don't pre pack, when your are working by yourself putting the engine or rear end in, just one less mess to deal with when lining things up.

[HD Rider]

I was thinking about using modern CV joint grease so the u-joint doesn't just cut a channel in the grease and run dry even though it's surrounded by grease. Thoughts?

[19Fordy]

Will this help? I think I used almost 2 cartridges. Corn head grease is thixotropic and doesn't
"channel". Read this:
http://vehiclesofvictory.com/2010/11...ome-instances/

[G.M.]

At least one full tube of a low drop point grease.
DO NOT use high temperature grease, wheel bearing
grease. The U joint will cut a hole in the grease and
run dry. Low temperature grease will soften when
warm and relube the U joint. G.M.

[V12Bill]

I used a full tube of CHG and then a little more from a second tube.

[Ford Freak]

Originally Posted by V12Bill

I used a full tube of CHG and then a little more from a second tube.

Yep , me too .

[HD Rider]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Will this help? I think I used almost 2 cartridges. Corn head grease is thixotropic and doesn't
"channel". Read this:
http://vehiclesofvictory.com/2010/11...ome-instances/

Makes perfect sense. Thanks.
I just looked up CV joint grease and it's NLGI #1.5, so quite a bit thicker.

[JM 35 Sedan]

JD CHG is the best grease you can use in the early Ford enclosed universal housing. I like to apply as much grease as I can on and around the universal before putting a transmission or rear end back in place. I don't find this process messy if I'm working alone or have a helper. When I bolt the clam shell halves back in place, I know there's enough grease on the universal to lube it even if I didn't pump more into the zerk fitting, but I usually pump more in anyway to make sure the torque tube bell and clamshell housing are lubed well. I also shoot some in at turtle gear opening before bolting turtle housing in place. Then when I change oil or lube chassis, I usually pump 2/3 shots into the universal zerk. Another important consideration is to have a good lip seal in place in torque tube behind the front driveshaft bearing, otherwise the universal lube will migrate back into the torque tube.

[redmodelt]

And if you have a good seal, the grease can go up the speedo cable if you push too much in! And yes that has been done.