Coolant Debris Looks Like RTV

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by Railcarmover

In my opinion RTV gets a bad rap..the modern stuff is amazing used correctly.That's the key, nothing like a leakless oil pan..I use it lightly to aide a head gasket in trouble spots on a deck.Nothing works better splicing a gasket when you do a timing cover without removing the pan.

Haha, I wouldn't call ThreeBond exactly modern, I started using it in the early 70's when I was a motorcycle mechanic. Great stuff. Yamabond also, same stuff.

[daren007]

Yes the answer is use it correctly.....Most do not. If the water outlet is correctly installed you do not need it. As a mechanic I have seen RTV used on every gasket and seal making a mess and life miserable for anyone who has to deal with it. I have been in aviation for 50 years and have found it in aircraft engines where it should never be used. Anyone in aviation should leave the stuff at home.

[Railcarmover]

I agree used improperly it causes more damage than what its worth.Used correctly the advantages in assembling model A engines with modern sealants cant be overstated.Many of the old techniques employed at the Rouge are still relevant today..but I believe if it were available back then Ford would have used loctite and modern sealants..speed of assembly and quality of assembly was key.

[Bud Man]

Originally Posted by Curtis in MA

In a near vertical radiator hose, why doesn't the junk just roll back into the engine when you shut it off?

The Gano is designed with two screens - the first one the coolant reaches is essentially flat, with a 5/16” hole in its center that allows the coolant to continue its journey to the second cone-shaped screen when that first screen is becoming restricted. Eventually the rear screen clogs, closing up the whole thing. The debris is pretty much squeezed into the screens and requires a few minutes with a high pressure stream of water to push it all out.

After a full rebuild, pretty disappointed that the block wasn’t cleaned better. This was the same motor that was set up for inserts and promptly ate its rearmost thrust bearing, so thinking my choice of engine shops was probably the wrong one.

At any rate, I appreciate all the great input, and we’ll see how the flush goes this week.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

My preferred method/opinion.
1st backflush/flush with a detergent (Dawn, Arm and Hammer Washing Soda, etc.) to remove grease/oil that may be in the system. Rust911/evaporust/thermocure does not remove grease/oil, so if oil/grease is coating the rust,Rust911/evaporust/thermocure will not get to the rust.


Reviews of the Gano filters are favorable, but some complain the clear housing breaks/cracks. One theory is that the clear housing is damaged from pressure backflushing/flushing, that the housing is not designed for pressures from garden hoses, etc. So backflushing/flushing the radiator and block should be done separately with the filter removed. My opinion - Always backflush 1st, helps keep any debris from lodging in your radiator tubes. Another theory is the hose clamps have been over torqued on the Gano.


If any one else has info on why Gano breakage occurs, please post the info.

[California Travieso]

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Originally Posted by Bud Man

The Gano is designed with two screens - the first one the coolant reaches is essentially flat, with a 5/16” hole in its center that allows the coolant to continue its journey to the second cone-shaped screen when that first screen is becoming restricted. Eventually the rear screen clogs, closing up the whole thing. The debris is pretty much squeezed into the screens and requires a few minutes with a high pressure stream of water to push it all out.

After a full rebuild, pretty disappointed that the block wasn’t cleaned better. This was the same motor that was set up for inserts and promptly ate its rearmost thrust bearing, so thinking my choice of engine shops was probably the wrong one.

At any rate, I appreciate all the great input, and we’ll see how the flush goes this week.

Budman,

Thanks for the explanation. I had the same question and didn't realize it had two filters. I know there is an optional metal tube but the clear plastic makes it easier to see when the screens need to be cleaned.

David Serrano

[denniskliesen]

I had a clear housing Gano, but found it not all that beneficial over the metal housing. Also I installed mine after getting back my machined shortblock, a lot of engine rebuilders that do machine work are sandblasting the engine block and do not get all of the sand cleaned out. That and some rust flakes become dislodged over time and are being forced to the screen. I found after a short period of time the brass screen was beginning to wear through and had a couple strands of the screen torn through. This resulted in making my own screen of stainless and adding a coolant filter with a remote filter housing. I no longer have signs of sediment or debris when I drain my coolant.