Ford F150 transmission for my 34' Tudor

[xelhan]

Hello,

I'm going to instal a Ford RTS 3spd transmission with OD in my 1934 Tudor.

They were fitted to Ford F150 2WD Pick Up’s 1984 - 1987, also called Tremec T170FT RTS.

I have been looking for a shifter for this transmission, but they are really hard to find. Does anyone have one for sale?

There are new shifters available for Jeep T170 transmissions, but are they the same - will they work?

Chris

[Fordestes]

The jeep shifter was a good swap to add a floor shift to a 4 speed trans. also , yes they can get a little pricy, I should have a spare or maybe can locate one ,send me a private message, I have never shipped out of the united states so if the shipping to Sweden becomes a problem I may not be able to help you, I'll have to check it out before I make any commitment. the last time I checked a (rebuilt) shift top was around $700 dollars U.S, I would suggest contacting Blumenthal's Remanufacturing in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma U.S.A. 1-800-262-9557, (central standard time) . also there is a t 170 listed on e bay for $250.00.

[johndee138]

The one I have in my 36 I just heated it up and bent it to my satisfaction, also shortened it some and rethreaded the end for the knob

[36coupe]

I removed and cut mine off and welded a 36 shifter in its place. Looks good

[xelhan]

I need the shift lever only - the stick. But complete with spring etc.

A friend in LA will take delivery - no exporting

Chris

[T&A Flathead]

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I want to do the same conversion but am not finding any local machine shop capable of cutting, turning and resplining the trans shaft. Does anyone have a source for this that I can sent it to?

[xelhan]

Colton Bartlett
Sales Technician
260.726.6689
[email protected]
Moser Engineering
102 Performance Dr.
Portland, IN 47371

Will probably be able to help you. I will send my shafts to them.

I'm still looking for a stick

Chris

[xelhan]

I have changed my mind and will go for a Volvo M47 transmission instead. It's a 5-speed and more suitable for a torque tube conversion than the T170 or T5 and the shift lever will be in the original position. No output shaft to cut and respline

Ciao

[cas3]

not being a volvo expert, i had to look it up. my brief search showed a trans that looks longer than the 170, and not an overdrive unless its added on the back, so longer yet, and the only ones i saw had the shifter way behind the main box, not out the top like the early m45's. i used one of those m45's many years ago and it was a good small 4 speed. my friend who is big into franklin cars splices the overdrive unit into the middle of the torque tube with very good results

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by xelhan

I have changed my mind and will go for a Volvo M47 transmission instead. It's a 5-speed and more suitable for a torque tube conversion than the T170 or T5 and the shift lever will be in the original position. No output shaft to cut and respline

Ciao

How about posting a photo of what you are thinking about. I did a search and what came up didn't look like an easy install nor have a usable shifter location.

[V8COOPMAN]

I went and looked at that Volvo unit too and came to the same conclusion.


You don't get much shorter than this when considering 4-speeds PLUS O/D....hooked to a torque tube. DD

[xelhan]

Ny kåpa2.jpg

M47 växelspak bild.pdf

V- spak.jpg

Stålspak v2 (2).jpg

OK guys!

I will try to answer your questions and give you some more information.

The M47’s ratios are 4.03, 2.16, 1.37, 1.00 and 0.82. The M47 to look for is the improved M47 II from 1986 and up.

First gear is perfect for bumper to bumper traffic and when it’s time to go up the podium to collect your price . The overdrive is working well with a 3.78 rear axle.

The M47 is 330mm (13”) from bellhousing face to the torque tube adapter plate. That is 70mm (2.75”) longer than the T170 and I believe that is close to the T5 in length.

Like on the T170 the U-joke bolts up against the output shafts bearing, which is not the case with the T5 as far as I understand. We are making a billet U-joint combo in the Ford fashion with a replaceable U-joint cross, but with a different spline to fit the Volvo output shaft and machined outside finish for the radial seal – no machining of the output shaft required.

We have made special bell housings for the M47 combined with other engines already - see drawing – and we will soon make one that fits the V8 flathead and possibly a special for Model A too. No machining of the input shaft, just a Volvo clutch disc.

The M47, M46 and the M45 all shift gears by turning and sliding the shaft that protrudes through the back plate. This shaft is connected to the shift rod #4 – see split view – which in its turn is connected to the shift lever. The shift rod can have any length and it can be mounted in the opposite direction, again in any length. We have made a new housing #43 that can be welded to a bracket and bolted to the cover on top of the transmission, using the covers retaining bolts. Or, we will cast a new cover that incorporates #43.

I don’t know if this installation require any frame modifications – time will tell.

Chris

[xelhan]

This picture from the shop manual gives you a better view of the shift mechanism.

The complete shift lever in the previous post is for a Volvo car. The short pieces and especially the straight one will be fitted to the Ford original stick. The new housing #43 is to the left,

[JSeery]

Ist gear would be nearly worthless and 2nd gear would be a little steep to start off in. Not gearing I would want. The t-5z 1st gear is 2.95 and has closer gears. I think the normal 5.0 mustang T-5 is somewhere around 3.25.

Trying new approaches can be fun, but I'm a big T-5 fan!

[xelhan]

2.95 first and close ratio is great for the track

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by xelhan

2.95 first and close ratio is great for the track

Totally disagree, they are great period. I'm not a truck gear fan on the street, but if you like them, use them. There are a lot of folks running the wide ratio S-10 boxes. Just wanted to be sure you were aware of what you were going to end up with. Sounds like you do, so if you like that gear set you should be fine. Little difficult to tell from the photos, but that looks like a big case. Keep us posted on how it goes.

Question, what are you considering for an adapter to the flathead? If you don't have anything in mind, a hogshead with a flat plate adapter might work. That is what I use on the T-5z.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by xelhan

2.95 first and close ratio is great for the track

Originally Posted by JSeery

Totally disagree, they are great period.

For comparison's sake, most old Ford V8 transmission gearsets have a 2.82 1st gear. That's a miniscule 4% difference (feels about the same) as compared with the 2.95 1st gear found in the close ratio T5 gearsets that JSeery and I religiously advocate as the "ABOUT PERFECT" 4-speed gearset for a street-driven vehicle. Like Seery said, that 4.03 1st gear (in the real world) is pretty much useless unless you're idling-along in a parade or dragging timber through the woods. Of course, please use what you deem appropriate in your vehicle. By the way, the little shorty T5 that we concocted in the picture in Post #11 measures exactly 15-1/4" from the front face to the rear face where the torque tube adapter bolts-on. We assembled that shortened, basic transmission entirely from factory Borg Warner pieces. It's roughly 9" shorter than a run of the mill S-10 T5. DD

[xelhan]

With 3 gears only they had to start high.

Take a ride in a Volvo or any other modern car and you will probably not find first gear to be useless. Why would a car manufacturer build a useless transmission. My original Shelby Cobra has a 3.08 first which is perfect for that car considering how it's used, but I would not like it for my old Ford.

No comment on the shift lever that you guys found to be totaly wrong!

[Ol' Ron]

The F150 trans is an inexpensive swap behind an 8ba block. I used the stamped steel bell housing by boring out the register to the trans size and welding on some tabs to bolt it on. I think the gear ratios are not very important, just something to complain about. The trans is so much better than what it replaces. One trip around the block and your sold. then take it out on the road and it's the topping to your sunday
PS the stock clutch setup works quite well.

[JSeery]

It's all about what you will be happy with. These modifications are a lot of work to not get it right the first time. If you go into it understanding where you will most likely end up and it meets your examinations, your set.