All I get is a click!

[Blu Dice]

It's been too long since I delt with this kind of issue - couple weeks along I changed the oil and went to start it and all I got was a click - good battery and connection everywhere. Push it down the driveway and pop the clutch and started ok. No more issues until this morning and click again. Tried to jump start it - click again. Push started it again - do I need to replace the solenoid or??
'52 Customline w/flathead v8 - original motor & 6v system.

[ponymare]

If all connections are good, then check wires at the solenoid and at the starter lug for tightness. The starter may just need to be removed, taken apart and cleaned, and if the solenoid is the orig that can be taken apart, and the brass washers filed down, but a new one may be in need.

[19Fordy]

Solenoid is you most likely problem. Remove and take apart the old one. Usually the brass washers which act as contacts are corroded. New is best. Of course you disconnect your battery FIRST before doing anything.

[JSeery]

You state that all the connections are ok, but I would still check them one at a time. Take them apart and clean them (I would grease them as well) and tighten them back down.

Story: I was working on a Dodge Caravan that was having similar issues. Researching the problem turned up a lot of folks having problems with the ground to the block. So I took the ground cable off, look like new. Cleaned it anyway and greased it and reconnected it. Worked like a champ. Even connections that look clean can develop a film that acts like a resistor.

[Andy]

I would use a jumper cable to jump the solnioid straight to the starter. If the starter turns, it is the solinoid. No turn, it is the starter.

[DD931]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Classic symptoms of a corroded battery terminal!!!

[1935coupe]

a fast and easy test is a voltage to the starter test or voltage drop test. you connect a volt meter to the power and ground on the starter and try to crank it should read close to battery while cranking if not remove the ground lead and move it to power side of the battery now you should be positive battery and positive starter with your volt meter try again there should be little to no voltage while cranking if you have battery voltage or close too it then move your lead up the line first to the power side of the solenoid then to the starter side you should find where you "lost it" very fast and yes this works on the ground side also.

[Blu Dice]

Thanks to all for responding. Now's the hard part - it's starting ok now - how do I find the problem now if it's starts ok?? I'm going to clean all connections still, but boy I sure don't want to be out somewhere and this happens. I've been lucking both times its happen I've been home.

[39topless]

Solenoids are fairly cheap. If I were you, I would get a new one and have it in the glove box, along with a tool box in the trunk. You may also want to take along a cable in case you need to directly jump the battery to the starter. It sure appears that you have either "unstable" connections or a solenoid that's beginning to fail. Perhaps your cleaning all the connections will solve your problem. Hope so.

[GSCOV]

Or just find the right length screwdriver or a jumper wire to go from one nut to the other on the solenoid.(advice from a nut, yea, I know) Just went thru this with an early chevy(brand X), and the cable to the starter was loose. Just tightened it up after cleaning and good as new. Caution- Make sure the car is in neutral when starting the car with the hood open. The early type of solenoids had a push button on the bottom for the mechanic or owner to do this, also useful in setting the points to "bump" it over just a little bit. So it is an acceptable thing to do. Don't assume because it started a couple of times that it fixed itself. Do some checking and the problem will present itself.

[Old Henry]

No one has mentioned the starter brushes. That has been my problem with similar symptoms more than once. I figured it out by hitting the starter with my "magic hammer" when it wouldn't work. The whack got the brushes to touch so the starter could work . . . that time. If that works for you next time you have the problem, then you know you need to replace the starter brushes. If not, it's one of those other things discussed. Just be sure you have a "magic hammer" in the vehicle at all times. It has solved more than one problem for me in a pinch.

[FordCustom]

Whenever this happens to me, it's usually some kind of weird black oily buildup where the battery terminals make contact. Just happened on my 98 F150 a week or two ago. Everything will work fine except maybe the alarm if you have one, or if you try to start it. Lights and radio etc. all seem fine. Undo the terminals and use one of those handy brushes made just for this. It might work?