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Old 06-04-2019, 04:22 PM   #1
JSRTUDOR
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Default Zenith rebuilds

Anyone know a trustworthy person that does Zenith rebuilds or sells Zeniths that are quality and donít cost $550 like Macs wants? I tried putting a macs rebuild kit on mine but it isnít working. Car wonít idle. Thanks
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Old 06-04-2019, 04:55 PM   #2
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

Check the offers from "Renner's".
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Old 06-04-2019, 05:10 PM   #3
jm29henry
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

Buddy have you tried a good cleaning?There is a passageway that goes between the lower gav and the lower bowl if that is plugged you will not have any adjustments for leaning it out . Hopefully some one might be able to post a photo of all of the passages that need to be cleaned out . Take your time buy a new gasket set and do a good cleaning and youse strong air to blow them out. I really believe you can fix your problem bye your self.Best of luck Joe
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Old 06-04-2019, 05:35 PM   #4
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

There are several shops that advertise just this service in the back sections of the MAFCA and MARC magazines. They test the carbs on a running car to ensure the settings are true. give them a call.
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Old 06-04-2019, 05:52 PM   #5
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

Is is the reason I finally bought a new Zenith. Now all the carburetor problems are gone.

The piece of mind was will worth the cost.

My position is to really enjoy your car it has to run and drive as it was built. Bandaid fixes work for yard cars.
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Old 06-04-2019, 06:01 PM   #6
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

There is a Model A good guy that is selling rebuilt and tested zenith carbs for about $169 to $189 . . The best price that I have seen .
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Old 06-04-2019, 06:02 PM   #7
figment
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

Those carbs are on Ebay
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Old 06-04-2019, 07:47 PM   #8
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

Call Steve Becker at Bert’s Model A and buy a rebuild. Yeah you can poke around with your carb but through experience I have found it money well spent to buy stuff properly rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing.
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Old 06-04-2019, 07:51 PM   #9
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

Before you buy a new one, make sure it is the carb. Put a known good one on to see how your car runs. Borrow one.
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Old 06-04-2019, 08:09 PM   #10
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

Idle problems with the carb are usually a blocked idle circuit or improper adjusting technique. Before you give up on your carb might ensure the idle circuit is clear. Just need to remove the idle jet, close the idle screw, and shoot cleaner through the passage to ensure it blows out by the throttle plate. Also blow cleaner through the idle jet. As for adjusting, it must be accomplished at the lowest idle speed possible with spark fully retarded. Unlike conventional carbs, turning the idle screw in actually richens the mixture since the screw controls air and not fuel. If high speed performance is good it may be worth investigating the idle system. Good Luck.
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Old 06-04-2019, 08:54 PM   #11
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

Bert's in Denver have quality rebuilds.
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Old 06-04-2019, 09:05 PM   #12
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

I bought a re-built Zenith in 2009, from Chris Pelikan, of Model-A.Org in Colorado. At the time he was highly recommended by many in the Model A community. I can’t remember what I paid, but I was and have been very happy with it....no issues whatsoever, and he tested every carb he built on his own car.
The only contact info I have is an address: 1850 Snowy Owl Dr., Broomfield, Colorado 8020.....good luck!
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Old 06-04-2019, 09:21 PM   #13
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

There are many people rebuilding carbs all across the country and most know what they are doing. I will say that I cannot think of anyone near you who rebuilds. I say your best bet is exchanging for a rebuilt one at Berts for $225 which may be a bit more than say having someone rebuild it themselves but Berts goes through a lot of trouble.
https://modelastore.com/index.php?ro...roduct_id=3929

PSA, Renner's corner says they no longer rebuild carburetors. A & L parts is another option. You xan't go wrong with them and they are in the Northeast unlike Berts which is way out in Colorado.
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Old 06-04-2019, 09:32 PM   #14
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

Read my post from last week. On rebuilding my carburetor I missed cleaning the vital idle passage
From no idle, after cleaning this passage, the car purrs.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...rburetor+story
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Old 06-05-2019, 01:19 PM   #15
Ed in Maine
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There is some excellent literature written on rebuilding the Zenith carb. Steve Parageter's manual comes to mind. The theory of operation is easy to understand if you study Steve's manual. Rebuilding the carb is fun and it is one of the improvements that you can make that is directly related to getting a good running car. I don't understand why it has to cost so much to rebuild a Zenith. I belong to a Model A Club Florida and as a part of the hobby I rebuild members carbs for free. The club owns a gallon of carb cleaner and we disassemble the carb and let it soak for a couple of hours. With a stiff wire we rod out the passages and then flush out the carb. To speed up the re-assembly process, I have sets of cleaned, flow tested jets in inventory. The dirty jets from the member's carb are cleaned and flow tested at a later time and then I re-cycle them into another carb. Club members usually bring a gasket set with the carb to be rebuilt. I usually leave the cosmetic work to the owner.



It the flow passages are clear, the jets cleaned and flow tested and the throttle shaft is not too worn, you are going to have a good running car. Don't forget the exhaust manifold gaskets that may be leaking exhaust gases leaking into the carb inlet. Ed
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Old 06-05-2019, 01:51 PM   #16
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed in Maine View Post
...
It the flow passages are clear, the jets cleaned and flow tested and the throttle shaft is not too worn, you are going to have a good running car. Don't forget the exhaust manifold gaskets that may be leaking exhaust gases leaking into the carb inlet. Ed
Ed, I rebuilt my carburetor and made your aforementioned checks including the throttle shafts and manifold gaskets. The car ran well but I could not get the idle to work.
Made sure the well was clean and the idle jet was not clogged. But I failed to clean the upper passage between the idle screw to the small opening above the throttle flap.

After the carburetor fluid soaking and and later an air test, and the secret passages appearing clear, I couldn't get the proper idle.

It wasn't until I poked a paperclip wire diagonally through the hole and thoroughly cleared this passageway of rust and other garbage did the idle finally work. I no longer have to touch the throttle lever pulling up to a stop and the rough idle when warm has gone away!

I see a lot of similar complaints in this forum about the stall when stopping and suggest this should be one of the first checks.

Last edited by Penthode; 06-05-2019 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 06-05-2019, 02:24 PM   #17
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

The best thing I did was replace the Zenith with a Marvel Shebler. Might not have spelled that right.
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Old 06-05-2019, 02:42 PM   #18
Ed in Maine
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Default Re: Zenith rebuilds

Hello Penthode, I'm glad you found the problem in the idle circuit. The hole in the carb throat is very small and easily plugged with debris. Flow testing the idle jet is not easy either. The jet is very small and using the micro sized drills as a round file in and out of the jet orifice can change the flow rate as much as 2-4 ml/min. I recommend a flow rate of 44-45 ml/min. You have to be very patient with this jet. With this flow rate of 44-45 ml/min. should allow you to have the adjusting screw backed out only 1-2 turns, leaving plenty of spring tension on the screw. I find that most idle jets are over sized 10-15 % when I test them which would require you too remove the adjusting screw to get the maximum possible air flow. This would mean having no idle adjustment at all!


Stalling is usually associated with having the float level too low. Most literature recommends a float level below the lower casing machined surface of 5/8 in. However, this level will have the gas level right at the top of the Main and Cap jets. If you are lucky not to park your car up too steep a hill, this float level may be OK. My experience is that while the carb may not drip gas, it will smell in your garage from gas that is evaporating off of the Main and Cap Jets. I prefer a level of 3/4 in. but not lower than 7/8 in. which could create stalling at stop signs. As long as you keep the Compensator Jet flooded, you shouldn't have a stalling problem. Good luck, Ed
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Old 06-05-2019, 02:48 PM   #19
Ed in Maine
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Hello Harleynut, I was in your shoes years ago. I had rebuilt a couple of Zeniths and they never ran as good as the after market carb. Then, I saw Steve Pargeter's rebuild manual on the Zenith carb. The key was flow testing the jets. If you don't, you have no idea what is going on in your carb. I found that the original jets were just as bad as the repro jets. After flow testiing, you won't believe how great that Zenith carb can be. Ed
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Old 06-05-2019, 09:23 PM   #20
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Thanks for the info Ed...….Harleynut
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